Well son of a gun. I might have to try them again!
Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
- Thread starter Rock40
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Well son of a gun. I might have to try them again!
Put in a half-day last Friday at the shop, getting the proper AC compressor pulley installed, and terminated a few more of the wires...keep finding minor issues like the need for different plugs to fit the 1HD-FT sensors, or having to extend wires to the opposite side of the motor. Still need a good solid two weeks of work to get the truck done, and that should be happening after Rubithon....chomping at the bit to start the motor and go for a serious drive.
Maybe there should be a separate thread on this... I would love to hear people's experiments with high range reduction gears - 2500 rpm on the highway is getting a little tiresome!
I have a spare t case I want to rebuild and contimplating doing this!
- Thread starter
- #604
Keep plugging away at it Steve, you're close!! I just got back from a marathon Alaska trip in mine towing my M416 trailer. Went all the way from Seattle up to Fairbanks then down to the Kenai Peninsula. Also did a 354 mile stretch of gravel up near the arctic circle. Really fun but exhausting. A total of 6,173 miles (9,932km) in 20 days. Overall the truck ran great and averaged 17.5-19mpg pulling the fully loaded trailer up a lot of mountain roads.
On the Denali Highway in Alaska...
On the Denali Highway in Alaska...
2500?! I sit at 3000 for hours on end.
Running 255's
That damn 5th gear just isn't enough overdrive. My gears are in stock, installing them in a week or so.
- Thread starter
- #606
What the heck???
2nd coolant filter change after 6,200 miles. There are still chunks in the bottom of the bowl and the element is seriously clogged. Just how nasty can the coolant passages get?? I'm running a 50/50 mix with distilled water, just really surprised the filter like looks this bad. Napa Gold 4071 with SCA additives
2nd coolant filter change after 6,200 miles. There are still chunks in the bottom of the bowl and the element is seriously clogged. Just how nasty can the coolant passages get?? I'm running a 50/50 mix with distilled water, just really surprised the filter like looks this bad. Napa Gold 4071 with SCA additives
Wow, that is nasty stuff! You've already done a flush of the system too, have you not?
- Thread starter
- #608
Yep, one complete coolant flush already. The main coolant in the radiator looks fine, I drained some to check it. The filter though....sheesh
This is making me want to add a coolant filter to my 1HDT by using the bypass hoses already in place from my ACSD delete. I did a coolant change in all three cruisers this spring and did notice some rust colored grime in the bottom of the expansion tanks when cleaning them out.
I wonder how many filter changes and what time it will take to clean it right up.
Thanks for posting these updates.
gb
I wonder how many filter changes and what time it will take to clean it right up.
Thanks for posting these updates.
gb
- Thread starter
- #610
Yeah, the bypass hose locations after the ACSD delete is exactly how this is plumbed in
If you guys don't want corrosion in your cooling system you can go with a waterless coolant (Like Evans for example). I did, and it's amazing how clean it stays when there is no water in there rusting things.
- Thread starter
- #612
True and good point BUT.....I'd have to get all the existing crap/debris out first. Obviously this UK motor is just full of it....
Would you be able to post some pics of your filter setup install? Housing, replacement filters, that kind of info for someone looking to copy your setup?
- Thread starter
- #614
Gladly, my wife has the truck but I'll take some setup pics when she gets back from work.
I used this filter base: Wix 24019 Napa 4019 Diesel Coolant Filter Mounting Base / Head This base uses a variety of very common filters, the threads for the filter are 11/16"x16.
I'm running this filter: NAPA GOLD 4071 Coolant Cooling System Filter which has SCA additives for diesel engines. The comparable WIX filter would be 24071. If you don't want the SCA additives you can run the NAPA Gold 4070 or the WIX 24070
I made my filter mount for both the Racor fuel filter and the coolant filter out of the OEM charcoal canister mount. It's sturdy and only required a minimum of fab work to get everything to fit correctly. I'll post some pics tonight.
I used this filter base: Wix 24019 Napa 4019 Diesel Coolant Filter Mounting Base / Head This base uses a variety of very common filters, the threads for the filter are 11/16"x16.
I'm running this filter: NAPA GOLD 4071 Coolant Cooling System Filter which has SCA additives for diesel engines. The comparable WIX filter would be 24071. If you don't want the SCA additives you can run the NAPA Gold 4070 or the WIX 24070
I made my filter mount for both the Racor fuel filter and the coolant filter out of the OEM charcoal canister mount. It's sturdy and only required a minimum of fab work to get everything to fit correctly. I'll post some pics tonight.
- Thread starter
- #615
It may not be popular but I chose the Racor fuel filter setup primarily because parts are readily available here in the USA and you can run a filter down to 2 micron if you wish. You can also add a bowl heater and a variety of accessories. I purchased a filter head with a hand primer also just like the OEM setup.
- Thread starter
- #616
Here are some pics...I welded an extension onto the OEM charcoal canister bracket using 3"x3/16" plate. After drilling the plate appropriately to fit the mounts, I used stainless bolts and welded them in place as "studs" to mount both the Racor filter and the coolant filter. The trick is getting the whole assembly high enough that you can easily change either filter but not so high that it contacts the hood sound proofing. I can just snake the coolant filter out along the back of the battery tray using this setup. Fittings are standard 3/8 NPT barb. Hope this helps
Ewwww. Looks like the cooling system got a good work out on that trip and that shook loose a lot of sediment that has been hiding in the block and cores...I'd say a regimen of dropping, flushing and replacing coolant will be in order. If there is rust flakes or scale coming loose and migrating, it would be a good insurance policy to put a good strong magnet inside the upper rad hose for a while to collect any particulate before it enters the rad and deposits itself across the top of the rad core passages and blocks the flow.
- Thread starter
- #618
Yeah, good point. I've been keeping a very close eye on the main coolant and the appearance of the upper radiator core. It looks good so far but a magnet might not be a bad idea. The plan at this point is a complete coolant flush (both radiator and block) every 2nd oil change.
If you havent already done so i would do a coolant flush with Ford VC-9. Awsome stuff if you have never used it. I used it on 2 land cruisers that had brown oxidation in the coolant. Fixed the problem. No brown anymore.
www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-VC9-CLEANER-OXIDATION-NEUTRALIZA/dp/B008B5VTSS
Or any ford dealer near by carries it.
You said you have done a coolant flush already, i have not read back the 31 pages to see if you used the product or not but it worked good for me. Have a good one.
www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-VC9-CLEANER-OXIDATION-NEUTRALIZA/dp/B008B5VTSS
Or any ford dealer near by carries it.
You said you have done a coolant flush already, i have not read back the 31 pages to see if you used the product or not but it worked good for me. Have a good one.
- Thread starter
- #620
Hmmmm, thanks for the tip, I had not heard of that product. I did a bit of research and at this point, I'd almost be worried about it knocking TOO much stuff loose all at once. I think I'll do several more regular coolant changes/flushes/filter changes before I run some of the VC9 through it. Thanks