Build A pig for Father's Day

[WarDamnEagle]

So the curved shrouds have the mounts it looks like, could be tough to find!

I went back to the body diagrams and I found parts that show "Not Applicable" for my 1977. Going up in years though they show up with part numbers for 1979 and 1980. I'm guessing these are the brackets and they were maybe standard starting in 1979. Just an educated guess but no idea what else they would be for unless it's the condenser.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Cribbing done and pig is bolted down. Just about ready to fly.

My original plan was to add cribbing under the front radiator support body mounts but the front seems very stable just floating. I also don't want to accidentally put any undue stress on those bolted connections so I think I'm going to go with it like this.

 

[bobm]

I would support it but that's me! Firm believer in better Safe than Sorry .

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The lengths I will go to keep from drilling screws into the trailer deck.

Finished up everything and pulled the trailer away from the lift. Now to pack all the parts inside that need to go.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Have you thought of protecting the front or side glass from any rocks that might get kicked up from the tow vehicle? It’s sitting down relative to a roller in tow. Just a thought.

 

[RUSH55]

What’s the plan for the frame?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Have you thought of protecting the front or side glass from any rocks that might get kicked up from the tow vehicle? It’s sitting down relative to a roller in tow. Just a thought.

Actually it's higher than it would be on it's own chassis, by about 9" but yes it would be higher if it was on it's chassis on the trailer. Still that's a valid concern. I do have a 50' roll of 36" wide crash tape. The rear window is out so I was going to cover the rear window and then wrap the top 36" all the way around with the tape. The tow vehicle is my 2020 Lincoln Navigator running Michelin all season tires, so not a very aggressive tread.

Lastly, I have a new OEM windshield to install so not a total heartbreaker if I lose the windshield. The side windows would be a total bummer though.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

What’s the plan for the frame?

Good question. Original paint on much of it with minor surface rust on the rest so it's in really good shape. I've gone from sandblast, prime and paint; to sand blast and powder coat; to chemical strip, eCoat and paint.

There is a local guy who has a curing oven large enough for frames and I recently had him sandblast and powder coat some cast aluminum patio furniture that turned out pretty well (gloss black). My preference at the moment though would be to sandblast and paint but to be honest I haven't put much time into it yet.

I will start stripping it as soon as I get back from dropping off the body.

I assume chassis black is something like semi-gloss? Maybe 60% gloss in powder coat terms?

 

[RUSH55]

I assume chassis black is something like semi-gloss? Maybe 60% gloss in powder coat terms?

I don’t know. Depends on who you’re talking to and what products you use.
I tried explaining this to a guy at a local paint shop and he just gave me some generic single part chassis black paint. Never ended up using it.
I’ve noticed on a lot of newer equipment which uses a gloss/semi-gloss chassis paint, that the paint is some real junk that peels at the first sight of a pressure washer. I imagine it to be similar to the generic stuff the paint store guy peddled me.
More important is the prep. Some of these primers and paints can’t handle anything less than a sandblasted surface. Since you’re going with black, it would probably save a ton of work and headache to just get it sandblasted and powder coated and be done with it. Painting a frame with a sprayer, though completely doable, is a PITA, and if there were to be some section or piece that didn’t get prepped well or completely missed, you’ll know about it afterwards.

 

[bobm]

Powder coat if ya going through all the trouble. The length of time and heat determine the gloss. After sandblast they should run it through an Iron Phosphate bath and let dry and shoot with compressed air to remove any residual sand. Then da Purty happens . on a

 

[Pigeaten]

So Ive been that fixing( matching a scratch or dent on powdercoat is difficult) paint much easier to match. Thoughts?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So Ive been that fixing( matching a scratch or dent on powdercoat is difficult) paint much easier to match. Thoughts?

Yes. I agree. But I can get the powder coat done locally. Ugh. Such decisions.

 

[Pigeaten]

Sre you planning on off roading?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Sre you planning on off roading?

No. At least not in the pig.

 

[Pigeaten]

Then powdercoat good , im having Ornch powdercoated, but don’t expect much heavy 4 wheeling

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Here are some chassis photos. Interesting, 3 of the 4 cushion mounts were sealed good enough to still have the original finish under them. These are the 4 mounts that are under the seats, more or less, that only mount to the body with one screw each (labeled 6 on the Toyota body mount diagram). That looks pretty glossy to me. Photo doesn't accurately show how shiny that black is in person.

I want to refinish the OME springs, driveshaft, axles, gas tank, etc. as well. If I decide to powder coat the frame should I just powder coat everything? I'm not set up to paint but I'm pretty sure I could find someone local to paint all of that for me.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Powder is basically impossible to touch up correctly, so I’d vote paint…but that’s just me…lots of folks powder everything.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Here's the old and new OEM condensers - identical. Well sans a bit of wear and tear on the older one.

View attachment 3850504

On the factory setup I had years ago, the condensor was wide enough at the mounting brackets(2 on each side) to easily reach each side of the core support, and required only a ~16mm long M6 bolt and nut to attach. Oddly, the new condensor looks even narrower than the old one above? Optical illusion?

and as for mounting, the pinch weld of the core support was simply drilled for 4 holes the abovementioned bolts passed through. Not the typical toyota spot welded nut or anything like that.

 

[cruiserbrett]

And one last piece of information that I just found. There are several pages of Heater and AC diagrams in the part's diagrams. I backed out, so to speak, to the Heating and Air Conditioning Set and found this illustration. It doesn't list individual parts so I don't know if those brackets shown in the diagram only came with the set??

View attachment 3850894

Never ever saw the curved brackets on any FJ55 A/C setup I saw/owned. I think that a generic drawing that is likely FJ40 specific considering the dates listed ('7901-'8007)

 

[WarDamnEagle]

On the factory setup I had years ago, the condensor was wide enough at the mounting brackets(2 on each side) to easily reach each side of the core support, and required only a ~16mm long M6 bolt and nut to attach. Oddly, the new condensor looks even narrower than the old one above? Optical illusion?

and as for mounting, the pinch weld of the core support was simply drilled for 4 holes the abovementioned bolts passed through. Not the typical toyota spot welded nut or anything like that.

Thanks Brett. Yes it must just be the photo. The mounting tab holes are exactly the same center line in both directions. I guess I could just take half a hole out of the core support vertical flanges (if that makes sense) and "clamp" the condenser with a bolt, washer, nut configuration. I was able to order the OEM bolts from Toyota that are referenced in the parts diagram but I won't have them until next week. That might give me some additional clues as to how they were mounted.

Thanks so much for replying!