'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank (1 Viewer)

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IDK, just did a rebuildish not long ago. All head bolts tested to spec and were reused without issue. I don’t think it’s about the budget, rather the waste of money because you don’t know better. Check them and replace if needed.
 
IDK, just did a rebuildish not long ago. All head bolts tested to spec and were reused without issue. I don’t think it’s about the budget, rather the waste of money because you don’t know better. Check them and replace if needed.
In my case I have a feeling someone has been inside this engine before and done a slap happy rebuild. So I’ll measure everything including the head bolts. As a precaution I may replace them anyway due to the unknown factor of what has happened before I’ve pulled it apart.
 
Here’s some photos of what I found inside my engine.

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Number 1 is at the bottom of the pic. You can see the 6th one at the top is missing a bit 😬

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That’s the number 6 big end journal, not bad for how much bearing was missing.

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The number 4 main bearing is slightly scuffed and the thrust washer facing the back of the engine was worn as well.
All of the others were fine but I’ll probably put new ones in for peace of mind.

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Here’s some photos of what I found inside my engine.

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Number 1 is at the bottom of the pic. You can see the 6th one at the top is missing a bit 😬

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That’s the number 6 big end journal, not bad for how much bearing was missing.

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The number 4 main bearing is slightly scuffed and the thrust washer facing the back of the engine was worn as well.
All of the others were fine but I’ll probably put new ones in for peace of mind.

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thanks for posting the photos. I just did my mains and rod bearings. I had one main that had about a 1.5cm scratch about as wide as a 1/10th of a pencil tip. the others showed what I call "normal" wear (for 372k Miles). the crank is so much harder that it would seem like it would take something nasty to damage it, and the bearing would look mucho worse:oops: (just applying common sense).

can't wait to get everything back together:steer: I assembled the re-built Birfs yesterday and AFTER I torqued the cone washers I remembered I forgot to fold over the locking tabs on the spindle, so, I had to spend 1/2 hour plus getting those buggers back out, just to take 30 seconds to fold a few tabs!:bang: total dope slap situation! I need a:beer:

good luck with your project!:)
 
Doh!!

Air chisel, or rotary hammer drill on hammer only rattles them puppies out in no time.
double Doh!!! :bang:
I have a hammer drill that has the hammer option but never even thought of using it for this. I collect yet another stupid trophy:censor:

Oh welll, next time. That's why this site is so good
 
Been to busy to dig into getting mine back in action.

Shout out to @AussieHJCruza (Eddie) and @Indestructible 47 at Complete Cruisers for helping source and ship my crank.
I drew a few blanks sourcing one.
Eddie got on the case and ended up sourcing one slightly cheaper than I could from Partsouq.
 
Mixed messages about using new or used head bolts. Don’t reuse. Buy new.
 
Yeah, I'm in no man's land at the moment. Cleaning, measuring, checking, organising. Feels like it's taking forever to get to the assembly stage :rolleyes:
I'm on the final stage of assembly. something to plan for (that I didn't) is replacing all the little vacuum hoses under the upper part of the intake manifold. My hoses should arrive in a few hours - so, I can FINALLY button up the engine! :beer:

Then on to doing every suspension bushing :bang:
 
So ah exactly how much pitting is acceptable in the head gasket surface of the engine block? :frown:
I am aware of course that none is preferable but that's not the situation I'm in.

Must this be machined or will it accept another head gasket (I have Toyota genuine) as it is....

The pitting seems to be around the exact areas the old head gasket let go at Cylinders 1, 5, and 6 all on the exhaust side of the block as well.

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So ah exactly how much pitting is acceptable in the head gasket surface of the engine block? :frown:
I am aware of course that none is preferable but that's not the situation I'm in.

Must this be machined or will it accept another head gasket (I have Toyota genuine) as it is....

The pitting seems to be around the exact areas the old head gasket let go at Cylinders 1, 5, and 6 all on the exhaust side of the block as well.

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Have you seen this thread? Block surface dots - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/block-surface-dots.1228586/#post-13421181

This guy thought all the “block dots” needed to be removed and he was quasi-flamed for it. I’m not the authority on this, I got confused on period correct wheels and lug nuts once but figured the attached thread could be a part of your decision-making process.
 
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Cool I’ll have a scan through that thread tonight, thanks for that 👍🏻

I’m not worried about the dots, I’m concerned about the pitting right near where the gasket would be sealing next to the cylinder wall….
 
View attachment 2803427Cool I’ll have a scan through that thread tonight, thanks for that 👍🏻

I’m not worried about the dots, I’m concerned about the pitting right near where the gasket would be sealing next to the cylinder wall….
Based on your photo, if this block is out of the truck and disassembled, I would have the block decked to clean up the surface.
 

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