I’m doing a head gasket. Been scraping on the old gasket to remove and I’m getting there but I can see these dots on the surface. Is that still old head gasket?
Block surface dots
- Thread starter David Rodgers
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- #2
Scraped, used a stainless steel drill brush. I’m thinking that I need to get a die grinder an a rotary wheel. Progress has been super slow.
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- #3
318000 miles, first head gasket
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- #4
I was kind of told by some “experts” to not use any abrasives on removing the old gasket. I used permatex gasket remover, a gasket scraper, a brass brush, a SS cup drill brush...for hours it seems.
It was bothering me that I wasn’t really making much progress. Block still looked like crap.
just went to Home Depot and picked up some 3m sanding pads, came home and sanded for a few minutes looks much better
It was bothering me that I wasn’t really making much progress. Block still looked like crap.
just went to Home Depot and picked up some 3m sanding pads, came home and sanded for a few minutes looks much better
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- #5
I think that these old blocks are just hard to clean up. In those few minutes with the 3m pad, I realized that it’s working but I will need power tools to get it optimal. Air die grinder with a 3m pad or rolok or I’ll be sanding for days. I vacuumed after.
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- #7
Can I use shaving cream to block. I don’t know how I’m gonna clean without abrasives. I spent at least 7 hours getting it to the first dot stage that I posted at the beginning of this post.
Can I run a vacuum while I’m running the die grinder ( near it when I work),
Any ideas would be appreciated.
thanks
Can I run a vacuum while I’m running the die grinder ( near it when I work),
Any ideas would be appreciated.
thanks
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- #8
I had rags soaked with wd40 in the cylinders when I scrubbed, then I vacuumed. Didn’t know how to handle the water and oil galleys.
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- #9
Should I just use the 3m pad and not a rotary tool?
Don't over think it.
Get it as clean as you can. You're not goIng to get all the "dots" off.
Look up a couple other threads on how clean others are getting the surface. Short of machining you're not going to make the surface pristine.
As mentioned try to keep as much of the abrasive dust out of the cylinders as possible. I used a little grease to try to catch it. Vacuum as much out as you can. Clean well with WD40.
Get it as clean as you can. You're not goIng to get all the "dots" off.
Look up a couple other threads on how clean others are getting the surface. Short of machining you're not going to make the surface pristine.
As mentioned try to keep as much of the abrasive dust out of the cylinders as possible. I used a little grease to try to catch it. Vacuum as much out as you can. Clean well with WD40.
Last edited:
Should’ve started thread before going to town on it.
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- #12
So there’s a bunch of debate on this one.
One group says:
no abrasives...I get it but I don’t know if I ever could get the surface good enough for a gasket
the other group says: rolok and 3m with rags in the cylinders (with grease or wd40)
I scrubbed for 5 hours with scraper, brass brush, chemicals, safety razor (plastic) and it still looked terrible.
Then my friend said to use a stainless steel cup brush on a drill. Cleaned on it for an hour or so...spinning with the brush, cleaning in between with acetone and wd40. Still looked like crap.
Used the 3m and it looked way better in 10 min.
The guys that say use no abrasive, how do you get it clean? I had no success.
As dirty as my block was, I don’t think I have any choice but to use abrasives.
I did a bunch of research before I started. Thats why I started using no abrasives. But as I went along making little progress, I knew that I’d spend months cleaning if I don’t use abrasives. Idon’t know if I could ever get it clean (no matter how long) without abrasives.
One group says:
no abrasives...I get it but I don’t know if I ever could get the surface good enough for a gasket
the other group says: rolok and 3m with rags in the cylinders (with grease or wd40)
I scrubbed for 5 hours with scraper, brass brush, chemicals, safety razor (plastic) and it still looked terrible.
Then my friend said to use a stainless steel cup brush on a drill. Cleaned on it for an hour or so...spinning with the brush, cleaning in between with acetone and wd40. Still looked like crap.
Used the 3m and it looked way better in 10 min.
The guys that say use no abrasive, how do you get it clean? I had no success.
As dirty as my block was, I don’t think I have any choice but to use abrasives.
I did a bunch of research before I started. Thats why I started using no abrasives. But as I went along making little progress, I knew that I’d spend months cleaning if I don’t use abrasives. Idon’t know if I could ever get it clean (no matter how long) without abrasives.
BY the time you're done screwing with it, are you going to check flatness?
You may end up jacking with it so much you'll need to deck the block.
Fix it until it's broken.
You may end up jacking with it so much you'll need to deck the block.
Fix it until it's broken.
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- #14
yea, going to check it after it’s clean. Do you think that it’s the best way to go about it (abrasives) and rags/grease in the cylinders? I only did a piece to test. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
It's probably fine
when I cleaned mine up I used a vacuum, scraper, and cut out Circles of cardboard to fit the cylinders to help keep junk out while cleaning.
Also, what you think is leftover gasket material is actually worn grooves in the deck from the head gasket heat cycling. Stainless against cast steel. Stainless is harder.
I used a razor blade and red scotch brite with my shopvac sucking up the loose debri as I worked. There is no need to make the block look perfect as the stock Toyota gasket is able to accommodate small imperfections.You’ll need to get your hands on a machinists straight edge to check the deck flatness per the fsm. I borrowed one from the machine shop that resurfaced my head.
Once it’s back together and you’ve run it for one full warm up, change the oil and filter. In your case, it might be prudent to drain/flush and refill of the cooling system too.
Once it’s back together and you’ve run it for one full warm up, change the oil and filter. In your case, it might be prudent to drain/flush and refill of the cooling system too.
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- #20
So, should I keep going with abrasives (over the rest of the block) or just stop and go with what I have? I’m using an OEM gasket.
thanks
thanks