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This is what psi provided… their colors are different from the gm wiring diagrams which they provided.. They didn’t use pin H. Also they swapped Pin E with pin J (they said it’s for a truck pedal. Question is suburban is considered a truck as well or SUV? My guess is that swapping the wire may have caused the issue. yes I will test the tac and the pedal side wiring. FYI. I tested the throttle body wiring. I’m getting 5 volts and good grounds {0.04 ohms). Stay tune.
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From my understanding, PSI discerns Vortec (truck & SUV) pedals as either 6-pin or 9-pin versions.
I didn't think the Suburban pedal I saved would fit the pedal box area due to it's offset angle. So I ordered PSI's C10 pedal & subharness to match my TAC. Curious to compare when it shows up.
I didn't think the Suburban pedal I saved would fit the pedal box area due to it's offset angle. So I ordered PSI's C10 pedal & subharness to match my TAC. Curious to compare when it shows up.
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I modified it, cut and weld magic. It works. Was thinking to use their pedal if I can’t fix it with other alternatives.
Was about to order gm from rockauto. Sold out. So I got this Japanese brand Hitachi ETB0019. Throttle body has about 200k miles, might as well replace. A bad throttle body could cause a P2135.
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I searched but can't really find the exact diagram on the pedal sensor diagram. Can someone verify if the 9 pin wiring is correct. Thanks
The diagrams I posted are from the Chevy Service manual for a 2005 Suburban with a 5.3L. That coincides with the TAC module you said you had and the gas pedal too. If you actually have a TAC sourced from PSI, then not sure what the pinout should be. Again, check the harness, pin to pin so you know what you have.
Also, not sure that ground you soldered on actually helps anything. The signal grounds are discrete to each sensor and they are 5v signals, not looking for a generic ground back to the battery.
You've been driving this for a little while, when did the code start popping up? Unless you made some sort of change, doubt it has anything to do with the wiring, and likely something is failing.
Also, not sure that ground you soldered on actually helps anything. The signal grounds are discrete to each sensor and they are 5v signals, not looking for a generic ground back to the battery.
You've been driving this for a little while, when did the code start popping up? Unless you made some sort of change, doubt it has anything to do with the wiring, and likely something is failing.
Been having this issue ever since I finished the swap. 1000 miles in. Issues popped up like 7 times already. Your diagram is different from psi. So I’m little confuse. I’ll be checking each wire this weekend. Well I’ll replace the throttle body and the pedal sensor as well. Got a brand new Agm battery. I’m using gm pedal and tac module. Will eventually replace the alternator.
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Geez, been awhile since ive tried to catch up on everybody’s pushing the envelope further and further.
I have a ‘93 3xlocked,2010 5.3 mated to a six speed AT. I have two question
Those that have done the swap, have you added an in line fuel filter in addtion to the sock in the tank ? (Pictures?)
I have two hard line coming up from the tank, that end just y u inside the ENGINE COMPARTMENT on the fire wall. They leak fumes and iv just got them blocked off with duct tape. Where should these be routedfor a proper permanent uses
I have a ‘93 3xlocked,2010 5.3 mated to a six speed AT. I have two question
Those that have done the swap, have you added an in line fuel filter in addtion to the sock in the tank ? (Pictures?)
I have two hard line coming up from the tank, that end just y u inside the ENGINE COMPARTMENT on the fire wall. They leak fumes and iv just got them blocked off with duct tape. Where should these be routedfor a proper permanent uses
I used those stock lines for my LS swap: Fuel, Return, and Evap. They should not be open to the atmosphere. I am curious where they did run the fuel lines and what did they connect to if those stock lines are emitting fumes. My guess is only the evap line is still connected to the tank, and are you still running a charcoal canister?
Yes, you should have an inlne fuel filter. The stock tank filter is just a coarse filter to protect the in tank pump.
Follow those factory lines back from the engine bay and see if they have been cut and spliced into whatever fuel lines are hooked up speaking of that what do your fuel lines look like and where do they come from?
Didn't you already do a bunch of stuff trying to figure this out not long ago could have been someone else.
I know there are many smart ones that can see what could cause the P2135 code (limp peddle code). So I installed a new throttle body. And tested the voltage on the wires at the connector. E & H get 5 volts. F & G 4.12 V key off, unplugged connector to test. Strange thing is that both TP sensor 1 & 2 both get around 0.5 V before start and when press the pedal all the way down WOT, got 4 Volts. The reading on tp1 and tp2 should be opposite and balance, equal 5 right? Something is wrong here. Thanks
This post he
This post here says that some pedals can have both sensors sweep 0V to 5V. Seems one should be matching the pedal to the ECM OS....
This post here says that some pedals can have both sensors sweep 0V to 5V. Seems one should be matching the pedal to the ECM OS....
Thanks. I need to more digging. What I got from psi first two images. Third one if they read opposit should be like third image. By the way, TP percentage reads 5 percent and when I stepped on pedal all the way down goes to 99 percents.
I said this before. I was repeating what my engine guy has told me for the last 10 years ecm tac and pedal should all come from the same donor vehicle to make 100% sure everything works as it should ive never flip flopped anything and ive not had a problem.
I used the same throttle body, pedal sensor, trans and engine off 2005 suburban. I’m going to test the Pedal voltages next.
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The pins in your throttle body plugs are probably loose from vibration. That's been my issues with those. You can buy a new plug with pigtails attached and splice it in.
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Does the code appear after a few miles, or as soon as you try to drive it?