Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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The bigger case alternator is better @NeverFinis do you have the smaller case unit .

I believe I have a small case alternator from a 2020 GMC Savanna. Actually 110 amps. Not 105 as I wrote earlier.

I haven't seen a need for a bigger alternator at the moment since I am not running electric fans.

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I've done a lot of "big engine in small space" type swaps. Something I've learned is that it is impossible for even the fanciest electric fans in the world to come anywhere close to the performance of your basic thermostatic clutch fan. The thermostatic clutch fan is brilliant- True KISS.

Electric fans can be the Achilles heel of your build. And my experience has been the harder you try to overbuild an electric fan system with aftermarket stuff the less reliable and harder to fix it becomes.

If there is a straightforward path to using thermostatic clutch fan in a build I highly recommend it.
 
Thanks guys. I ran new 2 gauge ground wires (cylinder block to fire wall, block to chassis, gm stock ground from battery to block). Also tapped a ground wire to the tac module. Goes into limp mode after a drive, so I think the electrical fan caused the p2135 code. Mechman is nice.. I’ll consider the 240 amp alternator..
 
What voltage is your alternator outputting?

I am running the stock 105 amp GM alternator that came with the engine. Mechanical fan.

If using electric fans, I would look at an alternator that is 105 + amps required for both fans. For example, if both fans need 20 amps, then I would get at least a 145 amp alternator...

BTW, wire from the alternator is often a fusible link. I would not run a regular wire...
13 volts with the new agm 720 amps battery with engine off. After a start, it goes to 14. I need to check the voltage of the alternator.
 
Really don’t think it’s the alternator. Engine off battery reads 12.8 V, engine on battery and alternator read 13.7V. Went back and check all continuity of ground wires.. one strange thing I noticed, the ground from battery to firewall (driver side), shows zero volt when it touches the bolt. Wire shows 12.. V. I replaced with a new bolt and it shows 12.8 V. In addition, I soldered another ground wire to the throttle connector.. let’s see if the P2135 comes back. If this doesn’t fix the problem, I think the throttle body needs to be replaced.

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Really don’t think it’s the alternator. Engine off battery reads 12.8 V, engine on battery and alternator read 13.7V. Went back and check all continuity of ground wires.. one strange thing I noticed, the ground from battery to firewall (driver side), shows zero volt when it touches the bolt. Wire shows 12.. V. I replaced with a new bolt and it shows 12.8 V. In addition, I soldered another ground wire to the throttle connector.. let’s see if the P2135 comes back.

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I don't know what type of alternator your have, but I think 13.7V is too low. Measure it again with both fans on while drawing power.

Also, ~13.7V is default or limp mode for many GM alternators. I set mine to 14.5V via ECM tuning.
 
Wow good to know. With both fans on and all accessories. Reads 13.7 as well. Mechman it is. Stock gm Bosch 160 amps. It’s old. Off 2005 Suburban.
 
Yep mine runs 14.4 all the time
 
Hi guys. I think I may know why I'm running into the P2135 code. After more investigation and reaching out to psi harness. They told me they flipped the E pin (Low Reference) with the J pin ( 5-Volt Reference). They said they did it for the truck pedal to work.
However, I'm using the pedal shown, 2005 suburban. I think this mismatch caused the P2135. Makes sense to flip it back right.

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These are what I found for a 2005 Suburban,Silverado etc. 5.3l TAC module and connector view. The harness makers will tend to make a 1 size fits all for their harnesses, many times including extra wires that aren't needed for some applications. It's not uncommon for DBW pinouts to be for a car style pedal and needing to swap a couple of wires for a truck pedal. I would start by checking wire by wire to see what actually goes where, colors won't match what GM used.

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Hi guys. I think I may know why I'm running into the P2135 code. After more investigation and reaching out to psi harness. They told me they flipped the E pin (Low Reference) with the J pin ( 5-Volt Reference). They said they did it for the truck pedal to work.
However, I'm using the pedal shown, 2005 suburban. I think this mismatch caused the P2135. Makes sense to flip it back right.

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Didn't you already switch some pins?
 
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