If your asking me I didn't use a trinary switch.I guess is that you run the L-R (ground) to the black wire (ground) on the trinary switch. This looks right?
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If your asking me I didn't use a trinary switch.I guess is that you run the L-R (ground) to the black wire (ground) on the trinary switch. This looks right?
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I’m still running the stick tune from Speartech. I was told it’s a factory tune with all the stuff out it to make it work for the swap. And deleted the O2 sensors. I haven’t taken it I a tuner yet because it’s been running so well so far.Was gonna tell you to just put a new gm starter on it but let you figure that out on your own. When you pulled the starter out did you shake it like a shake weight and if you did did it sound like something major loose inside of it .?
On your shifting who did the tune? At what rpm are you letting off the throttle at? My tune guy sets it at 6500 rpm at wot that means if you have it floored it will not shift until 6500 rpm you have a 4l80e in your swap ? If so first is long so waiting on 6500 rpm and then to let it hit second is a little scary my tune guy said this to me it shifts as per throttle pedal so if you give it the beans that's what your gonna get. Other than that its the only help I have for ya.
Tommy
That thread needed lest talk and more pictures lolMy ac condenser fan is turned on automatically by the stock pressure sensor located in front of driver side battery. When pressure hits I forget what pressure it turns on the fan. Here is the thread for it
Part I - The Need for Aux Cooling
Now that Chicago is hitting 100, figured it might be a good time to put some data and thought into our 80’s issues of (over)heat. Since we don’t have a lot of data in regards to things like our Toyota Engine driven Thermo/Fan CFM, RPM and other factors that will help us determine the best cooling method for our trucks, maybe we can look at some of the things we do know about 134a and our A/C systems. For the purpose of discussions of 80 over/heat, I will only address the high pressure side of the A/C system, as it is what creates the heat in...
- SUMOTOY
- Replies: 74
- Forum: 80-Series Tech
True, but it shows how to use a 14 inch fan instead of the smaller factory fan. When I did this 20 years ago you could still get the factory pigtail for the pressure sensor.That thread needed lest talk and more pictures lol
But is it.It’s ridiculous how much people ask for the drier for a used on on eBay when you can buy a genuine gm one for $20. Looks like this is compatible for our 80s, check out rockauto.
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Or it will grind? Mine will grind in park. It’s fine in neutral.When shifting from 4hi to 4low on a stock 80 with the 1fz do you have to do it with the engine off? With my 4l60e I have to shut the truck off.
Same with mine. Only in low range though.Or it will grind? Mine will grind in park. It’s fine in neutral.
Mine will grind in neutral.Or it will grind? Mine will grind in park. It’s fine in neutral.
I don't think this is the first mention of this throughout the years think it was mentioned over in the 60 section.Mine will grind in neutral.
Yes most are afaikPretty sure the grinding with a 4l60 is pretty bog standard going into 4L. As even my old GM 1/2 ton products when still installed in GM factory configurations would grind going into 4l. But I assume you all are using the 80s tcase ?
Pretty sure it just lets the ECU know that it is in 4WD Low for torque management so it doesn't grenade the drivetrain. GM > Engine > Torque Management > General - https://www.hptuners.eu/help/vcm_editor_parameters_gm_eng_tm_general.htmAnyone tried grounding Pin 16? According to Grok, this can change the behavior of the transmission slowing the output shaft (a still spinning output shaft being the likely cause of the grinding between hi/lo).
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