I looked into it and even added the necessary wire. It needs the VSS signal coming from the tcase and not the transmission in order for it to work. Since all these swaps utilize the VSS from the transmission that signal wire will trip up the TCM.
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I've seen it on a 60 series where the VSS is mounted to the back of the tcase. I wasn't aware there was something for the 80 series. My harness from BP went straight to the 4L80e.
Fyi. I think I fixed the issue. After installing the 9 pin psi harness. No more check engine light, engine doesn't stall anymore after a drive. No more limp mode when pressed the gas pedal. Took the car to a mechanic to fill up the Ac. The upper cold line was cold. He filled two lbs and still blowing warm air. He said there might be a leaked in the evaporator. No visible ac leaks in the engine bay.
If the suction line is ice cold and sweating you should have ac. Check your heater control valve make sure its 8n the off position.
Also if you have electric fans they should be running anytime the ac is on.
@tmxmotorsports yeah the suction line was cold and after 10 mins. Then got warm. I’m using dual radiator fans. Fan 1 comes one but fan 2 doesn’t come on when I pressed the ac switch. I used a trinary switch. I’m going to run a switch to turn on fan 2 and fill the ac and see if I get cold air or warm. If it doesn’t work may use dye to see where the leaks coming from.
Gotcha... when you turn on your ac both fans should come on this would be called high fan speed. If the engine hasn't gotten up to operating temp/ high speed temp setting via ecm they both should come on high speed with ac on turn the ac off fans should turn off if not being called on by ecm temp sensor for low speed if temp is high enough for low speed both fans should be running at low speed. One fan shouldn't be coming on for low speed both should be coming on then once temp for high speed has been reached both fans will speed up. Low speed both fans come on with only half the voltage we will just say 6 volts to keep it simple once temp is high enough for high speed both fans will get 12 volts witch will make them both spin faster. What fan relay setup are you using?
I also use about 100psi of nitrogen to test my swaps for leaks before pulling a vacuum.
Tommy
This thread has been a wealth of information. My swap is just about to get to the fun part. Right now it's in the doldrums of cleaning an empty Land Cruiser engine bay.
With that said, I need to clear up space and let the donor vehicle go. It's a 2003 Suburban 2500. My goal is to strip down and utilize the OEM LS harness, FJ80 gauge cluster, etc. Is there anything else you guys would recommend keeping from the Suburban?
Here's what I have set aside:
Complete 6.0L/4L80E & accessories
Engine & transmission wiring harness with PCM
TAC module & gas pedal w/harness
Fuse box
Relay box
OBDII diagnostic port
Power steering & transmission coolers
Exhaust manifold flanges (backup for exhaust buildout)
All engine & transmission sensors
I thought about keeping the hydroboost setup for a future upgrade. But it looks like the parts from a 2005+ Ford Superduty are more popular for the swap.
Here is a link to my ongoing swap spreadsheet for anyone interested: FJ80 LS Swap
And the progress on the swap here: $500 1992 FJ80 Rebuild - LS Swap in Progress!
Thanks again for the collective input. It's been a lifesaver in getting this project going.
With that said, I need to clear up space and let the donor vehicle go. It's a 2003 Suburban 2500. My goal is to strip down and utilize the OEM LS harness, FJ80 gauge cluster, etc. Is there anything else you guys would recommend keeping from the Suburban?
Here's what I have set aside:
Complete 6.0L/4L80E & accessories
Engine & transmission wiring harness with PCM
TAC module & gas pedal w/harness
Fuse box
Relay box
OBDII diagnostic port
Power steering & transmission coolers
Exhaust manifold flanges (backup for exhaust buildout)
All engine & transmission sensors
I thought about keeping the hydroboost setup for a future upgrade. But it looks like the parts from a 2005+ Ford Superduty are more popular for the swap.
Here is a link to my ongoing swap spreadsheet for anyone interested: FJ80 LS Swap
And the progress on the swap here: $500 1992 FJ80 Rebuild - LS Swap in Progress!
Thanks again for the collective input. It's been a lifesaver in getting this project going.
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Hah, just a little bit ahead of you, maybe. Glad to see another 3F-E donor, there's quite a few differences from the later models it seems. Don't post much (maybe 4th post in 6+ years 
), but have been soaking up as much info as I can.
'91 with a 6.2l/6L80 going in. Got the adapter direct from Mark's. They had a web sale for the RHD kit for the 6L80 that made it way cheaper (AUD$2,000.)than what they were trying to sell me the adapter only for (didn't make sense to me, but OK). So, got an extra pair of RHD motor mount adapters. Got Matt's motor mount kit and then found that the mounts on the 6.2L were toasted, figured that out on the first test fit. Got new ones coming.
Meanwhile doing the cleaning and decluttering. Went the Hydroboost route with a new Superduty unit along with 1-1/16th bore master cylinder off a T-100. Reworking the brakelines along with removing the LSPV, added a Wilwood proportioning valve for the rear, along with a 10lbs residual valve for the rear drums. Not real sure if it's necessary, but easy enough to remove. Making PTFE lines for the Hydroboost/Power steering along with adding a cooler.
Got a cheap chinesium swap harness for a 4th Gen. Have gone through and checked wiring, seems ok so far. Figured if nothing else if it doesn't work, still cheaper than buying a 4th Gen bench harness. Of course had to graft in the trans harness. Have the Toyota harness out and have it mostly cleaned up ready to graft in. Figured once the engine is placed, I'll start working it all together and get the routing, etc figured out before I do the final wrapping.
Leaning towards a mechanical fan/clutch, but we'll see. Planning on retaining the cooling fan to just blow outside air into the engine compartment to try and keep underhood temps down. With the 4th gen ECU some of the systems are a little more troublesome, starting will be stand alone, not through the ECU (needs the BCS). The A/C will be all Toyota controlled, but will have a canbus module to tell the engine to idle up and have electric fan control if I go that way, it will also provide info for the alternator so it can better control output voltage.
The 6L80 does have some quirks, there's no external PN or backup light switches, so gotta go another route. Again, the backup lights will need a canbus module, the PN could be done with the same module, or just a separate switch on the shifter. Probably going to bite the bullet and get a Lokar shifter so I can have the sport mode and Tap up/Tap Down shifting.
), but have been soaking up as much info as I can.'91 with a 6.2l/6L80 going in. Got the adapter direct from Mark's. They had a web sale for the RHD kit for the 6L80 that made it way cheaper (AUD$2,000.)than what they were trying to sell me the adapter only for (didn't make sense to me, but OK). So, got an extra pair of RHD motor mount adapters. Got Matt's motor mount kit and then found that the mounts on the 6.2L were toasted, figured that out on the first test fit. Got new ones coming.
Meanwhile doing the cleaning and decluttering. Went the Hydroboost route with a new Superduty unit along with 1-1/16th bore master cylinder off a T-100. Reworking the brakelines along with removing the LSPV, added a Wilwood proportioning valve for the rear, along with a 10lbs residual valve for the rear drums. Not real sure if it's necessary, but easy enough to remove. Making PTFE lines for the Hydroboost/Power steering along with adding a cooler.
Got a cheap chinesium swap harness for a 4th Gen. Have gone through and checked wiring, seems ok so far. Figured if nothing else if it doesn't work, still cheaper than buying a 4th Gen bench harness. Of course had to graft in the trans harness. Have the Toyota harness out and have it mostly cleaned up ready to graft in. Figured once the engine is placed, I'll start working it all together and get the routing, etc figured out before I do the final wrapping.
Leaning towards a mechanical fan/clutch, but we'll see. Planning on retaining the cooling fan to just blow outside air into the engine compartment to try and keep underhood temps down. With the 4th gen ECU some of the systems are a little more troublesome, starting will be stand alone, not through the ECU (needs the BCS). The A/C will be all Toyota controlled, but will have a canbus module to tell the engine to idle up and have electric fan control if I go that way, it will also provide info for the alternator so it can better control output voltage.
The 6L80 does have some quirks, there's no external PN or backup light switches, so gotta go another route. Again, the backup lights will need a canbus module, the PN could be done with the same module, or just a separate switch on the shifter. Probably going to bite the bullet and get a Lokar shifter so I can have the sport mode and Tap up/Tap Down shifting.
Not sure if you guys are aware of this. This guy make a fan kit for the ac condenser using the LC trigger switch. I may just fabricate one using a supra fan @NeverFinis.
" Note: fan will not come on with key on, it will wait until the AC system pressure hits 220 psi then turn off around 180 psi, so if it is a cooler day outside the fan will not turn on at all."
" Note: fan will not come on with key on, it will wait until the AC system pressure hits 220 psi then turn off around 180 psi, so if it is a cooler day outside the fan will not turn on at all."
Landcruiser AUX AC Fan Full kit FJ80/FZJ80
Installation instructions
Hah, just a little bit ahead of you, maybe. Glad to see another 3F-E donor, there's quite a few differences from the later models it seems. Don't post much (maybe 4th post in 6+ years
View attachment 4174282
'91 with a 6.2l/6L80 going in. Got the adapter direct from Mark's. They had a web sale for the RHD kit for the 6L80 that made it way cheaper (AUD$2,000.)than what they were trying to sell me the adapter only for (didn't make sense to me, but OK). So, got an extra pair of RHD motor mount adapters. Got Matt's motor mount kit and then found that the mounts on the 6.2L were toasted, figured that out on the first test fit. Got new ones coming.
Meanwhile doing the cleaning and decluttering. Went the Hydroboost route with a new Superduty unit along with 1-1/16th bore master cylinder off a T-100. Reworking the brakelines along with removing the LSPV, added a Wilwood proportioning valve for the rear, along with a 10lbs residual valve for the rear drums. Not real sure if it's necessary, but easy enough to remove. Making PTFE lines for the Hydroboost/Power steering along with adding a cooler.
Got a cheap chinesium swap harness for a 4th Gen. Have gone through and checked wiring, seems ok so far. Figured if nothing else if it doesn't work, still cheaper than buying a 4th Gen bench harness. Of course had to graft in the trans harness. Have the Toyota harness out and have it mostly cleaned up ready to graft in. Figured once the engine is placed, I'll start working it all together and get the routing, etc figured out before I do the final wrapping.
Leaning towards a mechanical fan/clutch, but we'll see. Planning on retaining the cooling fan to just blow outside air into the engine compartment to try and keep underhood temps down. With the 4th gen ECU some of the systems are a little more troublesome, starting will be stand alone, not through the ECU (needs the BCS). The A/C will be all Toyota controlled, but will have a canbus module to tell the engine to idle up and have electric fan control if I go that way, it will also provide info for the alternator so it can better control output voltage.
The 6L80 does have some quirks, there's no external PN or backup light switches, so gotta go another route. Again, the backup lights will need a canbus module, the PN could be done with the same module, or just a separate switch on the shifter. Probably going to bite the bullet and get a Lokar shifter so I can have the sport mode and Tap up/Tap Down shifting.
View attachment 4174281View attachment 4174283View attachment 4174285
What Canbus modules are you looking at?
I personally used Swaptime's MCM as a one stop solution.
This is what I did..A/C Aux Supra fan comes on when stock Toyota Trinary switch sees medium or higher A/C pressure. Justs needs to add pins to the Toyota connector and a relay to get it to work. Simple..
I think I found out the problem. Using the radiator fan two was not a bright idea to cool the ac condenser (has to suck the warm air from the radiator first before getting to the condenser). One note, the trinary wiring setup I did works. Fan 2 comes on when I press the lc switch, turn off when off. I tested with a fan. When fan is on, it gets down to 40 degrees when off 65-70 degrees. Going to relinquish using the radiator fan and use a setup like @NeverFinis. Cheers!! Dad was like maybe you should just drive with this fan attached. Haha
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Well, originally I was thinking there was a simple solution for the backup lights, the PN can be done on the Lokar shifter, but they don't have a switch solution for the backups. I have already bought a RPM Extreme A/C & Alternator module but that's all it does. So, now the option is to buy their PN/Backup/TUTD module (~$390) or get an all in one such as Swaptime's ($450) or the one from Wiring Specialties ($395). Looks like the money pit is getting fired up... Probably still easier than trying to figure out how to work through a BCS
fan 1 comes one at 195F, fan 2 at 205F. Fan 2 never comes on since it never exceeds 200F. Fan 2 comes on when I press the ac switch, compressor spins as well. Will try to install a new fan in front of the ac condenser this weekend.
I removed the extra trans cooler and installed the ac fan in its place. Only running the Derale trans cooler now. Ac fan kicks after certain pressure (using a trinary switch). Now my ac is ice cold. Also the trans temp is around 160 in traffic. Before was showing 140 F with the extra cooler. In conclusion, no need two coolers.
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I'll never not say the UZ is the dumbest possible swap you can do in an 80 but, if you're retarded like me, PHR jz p/s parts work on the UZ (and other Toyota) pumps.
www.powerhouseracing.com
This is the econo-can and it's definitely an economy part, but the fitting seems decent. They offer a nicer can with a filter. ChaseBays also carries some nice filtered cans that seem nicer than these based on me having them in my hands before. They also seem a little more modular with mounting. I'll get all this test fit this week. Not ruling out changing fitting type to different angles and hose length to get it where I want it to be.
I really like the ChaseBays can, just dont over fill it.
www.chasebays.com
PHR Billet 2JZ Power Steering Pump Suction Port Fitting
During the design process of our power steering reservoir kit we decided it was time to innovate a new product. Instead of the re-welded and re-worked inlet fittings everyone is use to seeing we opted to create a billet replacement fitting. This is a direct fit and uses a -10 hose end.
This is the econo-can and it's definitely an economy part, but the fitting seems decent. They offer a nicer can with a filter. ChaseBays also carries some nice filtered cans that seem nicer than these based on me having them in my hands before. They also seem a little more modular with mounting. I'll get all this test fit this week. Not ruling out changing fitting type to different angles and hose length to get it where I want it to be.
I really like the ChaseBays can, just dont over fill it.
Chase Bays Power Steering Kit - Lexus IS300 w/ 1JZ | 2JZ
The Chase Bays Power Steering Kit for Lexus IS300 is designed to eliminate the common factory power steering leaks, fluid spillover, and overheating issues with improved aesthetics, durability, and stealthy design. It is a full 100% upgraded A.N. Hose and Fitting replacement of the stock...
www.chasebays.com
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Going with a stainless, serviceable, -6 filter so I went with these. I like stainless steel fittings over aluminum when I can get 'em. Return line plumbing is already there and hooks up easily with standard fuel line as it did factory
