Naw it’s none of those things. Guaranteed.
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I will check that tonight when I get home from work.
I should add. I don’t remember if I did. It seems to be more prevalent after everything is nice and hot. Like stopping on a trail. Or running into the store real fast and coming back out. That’s what makes me thinks it’s just a crappy starter.
You sure you wired up the fuel pump like this. Note, depends which pcm you used, the wire may be different. I accidentally didn't wire the fuel pump trigger wire up like that and the fuel pump overheats (fuel pump always prime if you don't hook up the trigger wire).. won't start until the fuel pump cools down.
The pcm initiated the priming of the fuel pump for few seconds and turn off, until you start the engine.
Fuel pump primes every time. The truck won’t crank. Starter just clunks. Doesn’t turn the engine over
This might sound dumb. But where are you stating that the signal wire clicks in?
Everything bolts to my starter. 2 wires. One thick one and one tiny one.
I wonder if he's referring to this. You can test out the starter by:
Tap, don't smash: Use a block of wood, a rubber mallet, or gently tap a metal hammer directly on the starter solenoid or the back housing of the motor. Avoid aggressive, hard swings that could shatter the casing
Turn the key: The best method is to have a helper turn and hold the ignition key while you simultaneously tap the starter. [1]
Tap, don't smash: Use a block of wood, a rubber mallet, or gently tap a metal hammer directly on the starter solenoid or the back housing of the motor. Avoid aggressive, hard swings that could shatter the casing
Turn the key: The best method is to have a helper turn and hold the ignition key while you simultaneously tap the starter. [1]
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Exact issue I’m having but I don’t have to hit the starter. And that is way too many wires compared to mine. 95% sure mine has 2 wires lol. It’s been a minute since Ive replaced it. Could be wrong.
I put in a Gm Genuine starter and it seems to have fixed the issue. The cheap starter I had in there had heat marks on the body of the solenoid. I think the heat was causing it to fail. I bought a heat wrap from Michigan Motorsports for LS style starters for swap. It’ll help
I’m having a new problem though, the truck won’t shift at wide open throttle. It will just hang in whatever gear it is in, it will redline in 1st or 2nd and just stay. It will finally shift once I let of the throttle a hair. And if I am like 95% throttle it shifts just fine. My thought is a throttle position sensor. But not entirely sure. Anyone had a similar situation?
I’m having a new problem though, the truck won’t shift at wide open throttle. It will just hang in whatever gear it is in, it will redline in 1st or 2nd and just stay. It will finally shift once I let of the throttle a hair. And if I am like 95% throttle it shifts just fine. My thought is a throttle position sensor. But not entirely sure. Anyone had a similar situation?
Great you found a solution to the starter. @FlyinFaded check your speedometer plug to your mark's transfer case. If it's loose it may not shift into gears beyond 2nd I believe. Low ATF?
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) calibration: The ECU determines wide-open throttle (WOT) via the TPS. If the sensor is misadjusted or faulty, the ECU might not recognize WOT, or it may miscalculate the engine load, causing the transmission to wait for the wrong speed/RPM window to shift.
Shift Point/RPM Tables: In electronic transmissions (like the 4L60e or 4L80e), the commanded WOT shift RPM must perfectly align with your engine's power curve. If the commanded shift speed is set higher than the speed your engine can achieve at that gear ratio, it will bounce off the rev limiter and refuse to shift. Adjust the speed and RPM tables via tuning software.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) calibration: The ECU determines wide-open throttle (WOT) via the TPS. If the sensor is misadjusted or faulty, the ECU might not recognize WOT, or it may miscalculate the engine load, causing the transmission to wait for the wrong speed/RPM window to shift.
Shift Point/RPM Tables: In electronic transmissions (like the 4L60e or 4L80e), the commanded WOT shift RPM must perfectly align with your engine's power curve. If the commanded shift speed is set higher than the speed your engine can achieve at that gear ratio, it will bounce off the rev limiter and refuse to shift. Adjust the speed and RPM tables via tuning software.
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Was gonna tell you to just put a new gm starter on it but let you figure that out on your own. When you pulled the starter out did you shake it like a shake weight and if you did did it sound like something major loose inside of it .?
On your shifting who did the tune? At what rpm are you letting off the throttle at? My tune guy sets it at 6500 rpm at wot that means if you have it floored it will not shift until 6500 rpm you have a 4l80e in your swap ? If so first is long so waiting on 6500 rpm and then to let it hit second is a little scary my tune guy said this to me it shifts as per throttle pedal so if you give it the beans that's what your gonna get. Other than that its the only help I have for ya.
Tommy
Back to these codes. Anyone ran into this. I may have to replace the throttle body. Or the pedal sensor. Donor had 200k miles. Engine got rebuilt.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Did you change to a different pedal or did you use the one that came with the donor? Check your connections at the pedal the throttle body and the throttle pedal module.
You made a great point Tommy. The one highlighted is the one that came from donor 2005 suburban. I modified to make it so won’t stick out too far. The lower one is off another gm donor, I don’t remember. Looks like the sensor looks the same. Maybe swap the sensors. FYI. The pcm that psi provided was from a 2002 Silverado I believe. What should I do?
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I'd try that im not 100% on it my engine guy warned me years ago that not all tac modules and pedals work with each other . If ya have it still shouldn't be that bad to change it out.
I think we are on to something. I reached out to Psi conversions, waiting to hear back.
Browsing through their site, I'm using the blue/green tac module and the 9 pin sensor.
Browsing through their site, I'm using the blue/green tac module and the 9 pin sensor.
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Psi converstions said I can order the 9 pin truck pedal or use the one I installed (it's 9 pin as well). I will just swap out the pedal sensors and see what I need to do next.
Another questions for you guys. Did you have to use a separate fan for the ac condenser or you can just use the radiator fan? Fan should be on when ac switch i pressed? I ran a switch to the fan so I can manually turn it on. I'm using Matt's ac lines. Car is blowing warm air after a drive. Mechanic told me I have a bad ac compressor. Replacing it soon. I can live without AC in the pacific northwest but not my family.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I would switch them out it could be something else this is the easiest thing to do.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
What engine fan are you using?