Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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These are the answers I’m looking for haha the downsides of doing it. Ok. I’ll figure something out.
I ran my tank vent line along the tank fill pipe all the way up into the upper wheel well and put a filter on the end. It’s all behind the plastic in the rear driver side wheel well.

It’s been this way for 9 years and over 100k miles and I would do it again.
 
I ran my tank vent line along the tank fill pipe all the way up into the upper wheel well and put a filter on the end. It’s all behind the plastic in the rear driver side wheel well.

It’s been this way for 9 years and over 100k miles and I would do it again.
Good to know. I followed your setup. I'm just getting some hissing sound when i fill the tank.
 
Rereading it. Sorry ran the purge valve to instead of the vent from the tank (this probably explains the hissing sound) So you aren’t running a charcoal canister? Below 👇 shows how I installed it. Be nice if psi have a wiring to the gm purge valve so the ecu can control opening and closing.

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Rereading it. Sorry ran the purge valve to instead of the vent from the tank (this probably explains the hissing sound) So you aren’t running a charcoal canister? Below 👇 shows how I installed it. Be nice if psi have a wiring to the gm purge valve so the ecu can control opening and closing.

View attachment 4075002
No. No charcoal canister. Just a hose from tank that is terminates up high by the gas fill in the rear driver side wheel well. A small filter on the end. Fuel odor is not an issue.
 
I ran my tank vent line along the tank fill pipe all the way up into the upper wheel well and put a filter on the end. It’s all behind the plastic in the rear driver side wheel well.

It’s been this way for 9 years and over 100k miles and I would do it again.
This is solid input. And something I was thinking. Just putting some sort of charcoal filter on the end of it up high so water and debris can’t get in.

Thank you!
 
Yea. Thanks cabledude. I'm going to steal your method, until we can figure out a better solution. Will run to to the rear so drivers behind
my LC can get a high from the gasoline. Maybe one of these will work.

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I'm a little scare if not properly routed away from hot parts. Have anyone use the vapor trapper. Expensive. Interesting video on how the evap system works.

Yes, car fuel vapor is extremely flammable and dangerous. It consists of hydrocarbon emissions that, if not managed by the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system, can create a serious fire hazard.
Here is a breakdown of the dangers and implications of a purge valve or EVAP system delete:

Dangers of Fuel Vapor
  • Fire Hazard: Vapors are highly flammable and, if vented into the engine bay or near hot components, pose a severe risk.
  • Strong Odors: Deleting the system, particularly the charcoal canister, can lead to intense gasoline smells around the car, especially on hot days.
  • Fuel Tank Pressure: Without a properly functioning system, the tank can become over-pressurized or, conversely, may not vent properly, potentially damaging plastic fuel tanks.

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I ran my tank vent line along the tank fill pipe all the way up into the upper wheel well and put a filter on the end. It’s all behind the plastic in the rear driver side wheel well.

It’s been this way for 9 years and over 100k miles and I would do it again.
Did you cut the hard line at the tank and run it up with filler line, and remove the excess hard line going to the engine bay? Or is there a soft line somewhere in there to reroute with?
 
Lets see how accurate AI is. I reached to psi, hopefully they can advice on a solution. Really curious how it works..
Looks like there are only two wires... power and ground, ground is connected to the pcm. ** Psi said should be to keyed power not constant.

On a Gen 3 GM 5.3L engine (1999–2006/2007 Classic), the EVAP purge solenoid is a 2-wire component usually located on top of the intake manifold.

Wiring Configuration
The purge valve is controlled through a simple power-and-ground-switch circuit:
  • Pin A (Pink Wire): This is the 12V ignition power source. It typically receives power from the "ENG 1" or "IGN 1" fuse when the key is in the ON or RUN position.
  • Pin B (Dark Green/White Wire): This is the PCM-controlled ground. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) modulates this ground signal to open and close the valve based on engine operating conditions.

PCM Pin Locations (Common Gen 3 Applications)
While wire colors remain consistent, the specific pin on the PCM can vary by year:
  • 1999–2002 (Red/Blue PCM): Pin 34 on the Red connector (C2).
  • 2003–2006 (Green/Blue PCM): Pin 34 on the Green connector (C2).
 
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Lets see how accurate AI is. I reached to psi, hopefully they can advice on a solution. Really curious how it works..
Looks like there are only two wires... power and ground, ground is connected to the pcm.

On a Gen 3 GM 5.3L engine (1999–2006/2007 Classic), the EVAP purge solenoid is a 2-wire component usually located on top of the intake manifold.

Wiring Configuration
The purge valve is controlled through a simple power-and-ground-switch circuit:
  • Pin A (Pink Wire): This is the 12V ignition power source. It typically receives power from the "ENG 1" or "IGN 1" fuse when the key is in the ON or RUN position.
  • Pin B (Dark Green/White Wire): This is the PCM-controlled ground. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) modulates this ground signal to open and close the valve based on engine operating conditions.

PCM Pin Locations (Common Gen 3 Applications)
While wire colors remain consistent, the specific pin on the PCM can vary by year:
  • 1999–2002 (Red/Blue PCM): Pin 34 on the Red connector (C2).
  • 2003–2006 (Green/Blue PCM): Pin 34 on the Green connector (C2).

Yes, according to lt1swap.com

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Might as well pin 45 on C2 as well:

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Since you are in there, I would also pin the fuel level/pressure lines as well...
 
Thank you. So the other wire is a constant wire from the purge solenoid, can go straight to the battery. Wonder if we need a fuse?
Can you elaborate on the function of pin 45?

purge.webp
 
Thank you. So the other wire is a constant wire from the purge solenoid, can go straight to the battery. Wonder if we need a fuse?
Can you elaborate on the function of pin 45?

View attachment 4076092

I still have to do fuel level sensor. I was thinking of building something that converts the Toyota sender to GM....haven't looked into yet. Or maybe seeing of there is an optical sensor.

Fuel Pressure is easy. Just Tee off the fuel tank vent line as shown in the image below.

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In the above, I ran the charcoal canister vent line to the vent solenoid, then a hose down into the frame like Toyota did. I do have a 10 amp fuse at the battery.

As @White Stripe mentioned, lt1swap is a good source of information. Wasn't good for me for my late Gen IV/V motor.

Another source is the GM builder's manual for your year. For my 2020 L96 engine, GM shows a single 15 Amp fuse
  • B75C Multifunction Intake Air Sensor
  • Q12 Evaporative Emission Purge Solenoid Valve
Then a 10 Amp fuse for:
  • Evaporative Emission Vent Solenoid Valve
GM Builders manual will show wire size, connector information, and the ecm pin type....

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I'm going to wire up the purge solenoid when I have some time. I'm like a zombie now taking care of a newborn. For now I just fabricated this vapor filter system using a brita filter. Cut the top mesh out and added more charcoal and used jb weld to seal them. I know it's ridiculous, haha. Not sure how it will work yet. Seeing the section cut through the brita filter gave me an idea. It’s nice no fuel smell and no pressure in the tank.

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Hey guys. Need your help deciding on something. I'm planning on using my Landcruiser as a daily driver. Relocating to Orlando, downsizing to just this one vehicle. I really hate my OME suspension setup (front heavy springs, rear medium). So bumpy over small bumps, potholes. Had Icon suspension on my fj cruiser
and really like the feel. Front delta bumper, 35" tires. I hear from another post that you can swap out the OME shocks with other manufacture shocks for more comfort. Ome has about 700 miles. Wonder if I should just get the Icon shocks and not the complete kit since Ome springs.. would do fine.
What suspension setup you are running on your swap and how you like it? Appreciate it.

3.webp
 
Hey guys. Need your help deciding on something. I'm planning on using my Landcruiser as a daily driver. Relocating to Orlando, downsizing to just this one vehicle. I really hate my OME suspension setup (front heavy springs, rear medium). So bumpy over small bumps, potholes. Had Icon suspension on my fj cruiser
and really like the feel. Front delta bumper, 35" tires. I hear from another post that you can swap out the OME shocks with other manufacture shocks for more comfort. Ome has about 700 miles. Wonder if I should just get the Icon shocks and not the complete kit since Ome springs.. would do fine.
What suspension setup you are running on your swap and how you like it? Appreciate it.

View attachment 4079899

I would weigh your rig, preferably front and back separately. Dobinsons have different springs based on added weight and expected spring height. I am sure others do as well.

Then I would then choose an adjustable shock to match your driving preferences. I have unadjustable Dobinsons IMS which I think are too softly valved for my vehicle's weight.
 
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