Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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Anyone know the size of the o rings in the marks4wd kit for the hf2a adapter. I have a slight leak coming from my tail shaft to adapter on my truck and I have to separate them. May need to get new o rings.

I emailed marks. They weren’t much help
 
Curious what you guys with the la swap did with the purge line coming from the tank via the metal line back to the engine bay? I deleted my emissions and I just have this loose line spewing out fuel vapor lol. It stinks up the cab. Can I plug it without repercussions? Or should I run it back into the engine via the pcv hose on the passenger side head with a T-connector? @NeverFinis @tmxmotorsports
 
FlyinFaded said:
Curious what you guys with the la swap did with the purge line coming from the tank via the metal line back to the engine bay? I deleted my emissions and I just have this loose line spewing out fuel vapor lol. It stinks up the cab. Can I plug it without repercussions? Or should I run it back into the engine via the pcv hose on the passenger side head with a T-connector? @NeverFinis @tmxmotorsports
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pretty sure your going to want to run that into the charcoal canisters then routed to the intake
 
Yes, hooked up the vent line to the charcoal canister, like stock.

Also, ran the purge line to the engine, like stock.

This is optional: Added a GM purge valve, but one could just keep the line from the charcoal canister that Toyota ran to the frame rail.
 
NeverFinis said:
Yes, hooked up the vent line to the charcoal canister, like stock.

Also, ran the purge line to the engine, like stock.

This is optional: Added a GM purge valve, but one could just keep the line from the charcoal canister that Toyota ran to the frame rail.
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I deleted the charcoal canister. I removed all things related to emissions lol I don’t have to smog it. That’s why I was asking if could I tee it into the hose that goes to the throttle body from the passenger side head? There is a purge valve on top of the intake manifold that I installed a plug for as well since I deleted it.
 
FlyinFaded said:
It’s not needed for anything other than emissions right? Lol can’t I just run the line to the intake? Where the purge valve was on top?
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A charcoal canister absorbs fuel vapor until it can be purge through the engine. Without it, you will experience a pressurized gas tank when you go to fuel up. 80 Series fuel tanks have had issues with excess fuel pressure due to failed charcoal canisters.

It is the simplest of emission systems and to me, a no brainer to keep.
 
NeverFinis said:
A charcoal canister absorbs fuel vapor until it can be purge through the engine. Without it, you will experience a pressurized gas tank when you go to fuel up. 80 Series fuel tanks have had issues with excess fuel pressure due to failed charcoal canisters.

It is the simplest of emission systems and to me, a no brainer to keep.
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Well I tossed my bracket and canister. I guess I can just run a longer line to outside if the vehicle or tee the line to the throttle body line and the vapor goes back into the engine as designed. Right?
 
FlyinFaded said:
Well I tossed my bracket and canister. I guess I can just run a longer line to outside if the vehicle or tee the line to the throttle body line and the vapor goes back into the engine as designed. Right?
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I think you are creating a situation with unmetered air.

Get a GM square charcoal canister, as some have done, and bolt it to the frame somewhere. Run vent line to it, and from it to the purge valve on the engine.
 
The GM can that most of us have been using for the 80s for well over a decade now is from Auto Zone and is the VC120 part number. Its not 40 bucks anymore I went and looked and it says 8X.00 and when you search for appications that woujd use it, it shows no fit adn wants you to buy something in the 300 dollar range.

its simply a tank line in and a purge line out, to a simpe purge valve. If you want to use 1 the Rock has the same thing for 63 buck here is the link to it
 
Article here on an alternative charcoal replacement. I ran the fuel vapor line to the frame, no wonder why I was getting pressures when I fill my tank. Thanks for pointing that out Neverfinis. Article here on an alternative charcoal replacement: Charcoal Canister - Great Option! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/charcoal-canister-great-option.412261/

IMG_5911.webp
 
wiynwiyn said:
I searched but couldn’t find what these lines are. Which one is the vent and purge lines?

View attachment 4074190
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If you blow up that image, you can barely read "To Tank" on the line closest to the viewer.

1769351746058.webp


Here is mine when I still had the 1FZ-FE,
1769351673629.webp


The bottom line, not shown, is to the frame rail.

A: Engine
B: Tank
C: Frame Rail
 
mrsleeve said:
The GM can that most of us have been using for the 80s for well over a decade now is from Auto Zone and is the VC120 part number. Its not 40 bucks anymore I went and looked and it says 8X.00 and when you search for appications that woujd use it, it shows no fit adn wants you to buy something in the 300 dollar range.

its simply a tank line in and a purge line out, to a simpe purge valve. If you want to use 1 the Rock has the same thing for 63 buck here is the link to it
Click to expand...
I had that same charcoal canister. I tossed it and the bracket that holds it lol
 
NeverFinis said:
I think you are creating a situation with unmetered air.

Get a GM square charcoal canister, as some have done, and bolt it to the frame somewhere. Run vent line to it, and from it to the purge valve on the engine.
Click to expand...
I have a hose that runs from the passenger head up into the throttle body and sucks into the intake. I have drive by cable. So I don’t know if the design is different. But I imagine it’s taking gases from the head and feeing back into engine. Feels like it would be the same deal just more vapor. I dunno?
 
FlyinFaded said:
I have a hose that runs from the passenger head up into the throttle body and sucks into the intake. I have drive by cable. So I don’t know if the design is different. But I imagine it’s taking gases from the head and feeing back into engine. Feels like it would be the same deal just more vapor. I dunno?
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I mean, don't use a charcoal canister. Your engine oil will do a fine job of absorbing fuel vapors when the engine isn't running....
 
A GM purge valve stuck open causes a vacuum leak, leading to rough idle, stalling, hard starting (especially after fueling), reduced fuel economy, and a check engine light (commonly codes P0446, P0455, P0496). Usually located on top of the engine, this solenoid should remain closed when not energized; a failed unit allows fuel vapors to constantly enter the intake.
  • When it is Cold: The purge valve remains closed during cold starts and while the engine is warming up to ensure smooth idle and proper fuel management.
  • When it is Hot: Once the engine reaches a certain temperature and is running, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) commands the purge valve to open, allowing fuel vapors from the charcoal canister to be burned in the engine.

Was thinking about removing the gm purge valve (since not connected to ecu) and have the purge line runs to a fitting > intake manifold hole. However, sounds like this will trigger a vacuum leak (fuel vapor will always enter the engine, uncontrolled). Should I just run this before the maf sensor so it won't have a vacuum leak?
 
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