I have the ome j coils and l shocks all the way around. I don’t understand what you mean that it’s bumpy. My truck soaks up every bump in the road. I have delta front and rear with a winch, rock sliders and 35s. To each their own preference I guess haha
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I don't mind it but the wife hates how bouncy they are, and especially with a three weeks old girl. Forgot to mention, Ome recommend removing the .5" spacers, this they say causes the spring to compress more making it bouncier. I installed it because of sting bug. I'll remove them later first before buying new suspension. Funny thing, added 200 lbs of gravel bags help the back less bouncy.
Ended up scrapping the trans cross member I was making for a number of reasons, mostly because I was doing it drunk and in the dark. I bought a couple ballasts, have light again, and cranked out a couple of these, also probably at a minimum half drunk. 1/4” wall 2x6 tubing and 3/16” plate. Keeps the 3* slope of the factory setup, WAYYYYY beefier. At some point, at least for mine, I’ll add a transfer case skid. I really didn’t wanna do another one of these, but I got a 100 series oil pan setup a couple weeks back for $53, two beers, and a fried chicken sandwich
Not sure if this has been covered here, but I slapped a non vvti 100 series pan on this 3UZ I have slated for my 55 to use as mock up in my FJ80 and ran into a slight fitment issue with the casting inside the pan interfering with a bolt head on the oil pump.
There’s plenty of meat to grind that rib down and go about your business. Here’s a couple good shots of why this should be the only pan you use for these things.
There’s plenty of meat to grind that rib down and go about your business. Here’s a couple good shots of why this should be the only pan you use for these things.
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Wait until you’re here and we can help you out!
We mix and match spring/shock combos all the time. Bring your 80 by and I can drive it with you and help point you in the right direction.
I was reading another build thread where the OP dusted his motor due to an over clogged panel filter that evetually deformed letting dust past.
This has got me thinking because I also have a panel filter for the LS Swap....
Radius Fabrification Filter box is not easy to take apart for inspection...
GM, and other manufacturers, offered a physical filter monitor for many years.
This is a K&N version
I believe GM now does it with a module that monitors various parameters, and then lets you know on the dash to change your air filter
I don't know if this is done by the ECM, or another module. It would be cool if there is a sensor or canbus message one could monitor with Torque Pro.
For now, I ordered the K&N filter monitor and will put it in the intake piping.
The control module K20 monitors the following:
This has got me thinking because I also have a panel filter for the LS Swap....
Radius Fabrification Filter box is not easy to take apart for inspection...GM, and other manufacturers, offered a physical filter monitor for many years.
This is a K&N version
I believe GM now does it with a module that monitors various parameters, and then lets you know on the dash to change your air filter
I don't know if this is done by the ECM, or another module. It would be cool if there is a sensor or canbus message one could monitor with Torque Pro.
For now, I ordered the K&N filter monitor and will put it in the intake piping.
The control module K20 monitors the following:
- Air Cleaner Monitor Test Result
- Ambient Air Temperature
- Distance Traveled
- Engine Coolant Temperature
- Engine Load
- Engine Speed
- Humidity Sensor Intake Air Temperature Signal
- Time Since Last Service Interval Reset
- Total Mass Air Flow
- Vehicle Speed
I've been selling and using that same cast filter box in 80 series Cummins swaps. Around 80 of them. For 15 years now. I have one in my daily'd Cummins Superduty with 65k miles on the swap as well.I was reading another build thread where the OP dusted his motor due to an over clogged panel filter that evetually deformed letting dust past.
This has got me thinking because I also have a panel filter for the LS Swap....
GM, and other manufacturers, offered a physical filter monitor for many years.
This is a K&N version
View attachment 4082624
I believe GM now does it with a module that monitors various parameters, and then lets you know on the dash to change your air filter
I don't know if this is done by the ECM, or another module. It would be cool if there is a sensor or canbus message one could monitor with Torque Pro.
For now, I ordered the K&N filter monitor and will put it in the intake piping.
The control module K20 monitors the following:
- Air Cleaner Monitor Test Result
- Ambient Air Temperature
- Distance Traveled
- Engine Coolant Temperature
- Engine Load
- Engine Speed
- Humidity Sensor Intake Air Temperature Signal
- Time Since Last Service Interval Reset
- Total Mass Air Flow
- Vehicle Speed
I don't install filter minders because I notice significant performance degradation before those indicators ever move. I honestly feel they're problematic for vehicles as folks will rely on them to tell when they should change filters. They should never be used for that. Filter minders are important on industrial machines.
I don't know how you pack a filter solid with dirt to the point it collapses. A Cummins would be billowing black smoke and WAY down on power before the filter was in danger of collapse. It would be very, very hard to ignore the symptoms.
I don't disagree at all, and I am not sure how the symptoms were missed...
The K&N filter monitor I bought is meant for gas engines and should trigger earlier at 10" H2O rather than 20" or 25" H2O, which is normal for the diesel engine version.
Hopefully the lower trigger makes it more useful than your experience and act as an early warning of a clogged filter if one happens to be the last vehicle on a dusty trail for days....
I do plan on driving dusty trails for days...
My 04 Silverado had one of these from the factory. I’m pretty sure it never worked. Or it’s very unreliable. I never saw the thing move. Maybe I changed my air filter often enough. I don’t know. That’s just my input on that.I was reading another build thread where the OP dusted his motor due to an over clogged panel filter that evetually deformed letting dust past.
This has got me thinking because I also have a panel filter for the LS Swap....
GM, and other manufacturers, offered a physical filter monitor for many years.
This is a K&N version
View attachment 4082624
I believe GM now does it with a module that monitors various parameters, and then lets you know on the dash to change your air filter
I don't know if this is done by the ECM, or another module. It would be cool if there is a sensor or canbus message one could monitor with Torque Pro.
For now, I ordered the K&N filter monitor and will put it in the intake piping.
The control module K20 monitors the following:
- Air Cleaner Monitor Test Result
- Ambient Air Temperature
- Distance Traveled
- Engine Coolant Temperature
- Engine Load
- Engine Speed
- Humidity Sensor Intake Air Temperature Signal
- Time Since Last Service Interval Reset
- Total Mass Air Flow
- Vehicle Speed
A question for those that have done the LS swap and integrating the donor Evap system for emission compliance. My donor vehicle is an '04 Yukon with a LQ4 6.0L. When mounting the GM fuel level sensor with the 80 pump hanger the GM fuel sender has a larger swing than the 80 float and sender. The GM sending unit has about a 22 degree greater swing. When I mount the pivot with the 80 sender & float if the tank is on empty if will be the same but when I fill up the tank the GM sending unit will read around only 2/3 full. If I run it like this will it cause a problem for the GM Evap system? Will it throw a check engine light? I read the thread with Racefiend's evap integration, he mounted it differently and had a different fuel level sender. This is a great thread by the way. Thanks for any tips or info on this.
I used that factory 80 fuel level and changed out the pump to one with higher gallons per minute. You shouldn’t have to change any of that.
Maybe I’m not understanding what you’re asking but I don’t think you need to do what you’re doing.
I’m fortunate my work pays for my gas. I make sure to drive the 80 once or twice a week and I can justify them paying for my fill up with “premium” lol
I guess.. dealing with the evap system? Lucky you FlyinFaded. Gas ain't cheap in San diego. People must think you are a high roller when you drive your ls swapped 80s. I work at home, wish I can drive my 80s more often.
I have not done what you are doing, but I think you want the opposite. GM wants to know when the tank is full, rather than empty.
I believe this is to prevent fuel entering the charcoal canister if the purge valve is opened by the ECM.
You could probably bend the arm to adjust.
Ahhh this makes sense to me now.
Definitely not a baller. Just very lucky in this particular situation!!!
Im retaining the 80 fuel level sensor to run my factory gauges. The GM fuel level sender is to tell the PCM how much gas in the tank so it knows when to open the vacuum purge valve on the intake manifold. They are wired differently or else I would have wired off the 80 fuel level sender.
I ended up hooking up the GM sender to show full when the tank is full. When it reads empty on the 80 gauge or the float is bottom'd out the GM sender will think there is 1/3 of a tank left. Hopefully it just thinks it has a large reserve
.Got it. The guys guys did my ECU, coded those codes out of it because I deleted my emissions.Im retaining the 80 fuel level sensor to run my factory gauges. The GM fuel level sender is to tell the PCM how much gas in the tank so it knows when to open the vacuum purge valve on the intake manifold. They are wired differently or else I would have wired off the 80 fuel level sender.
I ended up hooking up the GM sender to show full when the tank is full. When it reads empty on the 80 gauge or the float is bottom'd out the GM sender will think there is 1/3 of a tank left. Hopefully it just thinks it has a large reserve
Just posting this so the info is in here for anyone down the road.
When converting a 4L80e transmission from a 2wd to a 4wd there are 3 holes that should be plugged at the tail shaft. The 12 and 6 o’clock holes can be tapped and use a 1/8 pipe plug. I could not find the size anywhere on the internet so I wanted to share that.
The 3 o clock hole can be plugged using GM part number 9427692. You can find it on Amazon for pretty cheap.
Not my photo. But using it for reference
When converting a 4L80e transmission from a 2wd to a 4wd there are 3 holes that should be plugged at the tail shaft. The 12 and 6 o’clock holes can be tapped and use a 1/8 pipe plug. I could not find the size anywhere on the internet so I wanted to share that.
The 3 o clock hole can be plugged using GM part number 9427692. You can find it on Amazon for pretty cheap.
Not my photo. But using it for reference
EVERY Chevy Engine LEAKS Oil. Great video for us LS guys.