88 EFI
- Thread starter mainahh
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Just engine stuff? My two favorites. Both good companies.
D.O.A. Racing Engines
LC Engineering
Before you make any engine mods ask here first. Lots of experience and opinions.
D.O.A. Racing Engines
LC Engineering
Before you make any engine mods ask here first. Lots of experience and opinions.
- Thread starter
- #3
thank you. i was looking for theat LC engineering website but couldnt think of the name of it.
i would kinda like to put a cold air intake on my motor. and then just dress it up a bit. nothing crazy. its my daily driver with 250,000 miles on it already.
just had the timing chair replaced, radiator, brake lines, bed, wheel cylinders, wheel drums, distributor, intake manifold, water pump, fuel pump.
left to do to get this thing in my version of "mint condition": new muffler (just gonna get another stock one) a couple switches in the dash need to be replaced. and i want to re-do the interior.
ill have to post a picture. i think you guys will like it. its lifted 3 inches. got 32'' tires, nothing serious. but its got the best camo paint in maine. the guy did a good job. unfortunatly, i think that im gonna repaint it this spring.
i would kinda like to put a cold air intake on my motor. and then just dress it up a bit. nothing crazy. its my daily driver with 250,000 miles on it already.
just had the timing chair replaced, radiator, brake lines, bed, wheel cylinders, wheel drums, distributor, intake manifold, water pump, fuel pump.
left to do to get this thing in my version of "mint condition": new muffler (just gonna get another stock one) a couple switches in the dash need to be replaced. and i want to re-do the interior.
ill have to post a picture. i think you guys will like it. its lifted 3 inches. got 32'' tires, nothing serious. but its got the best camo paint in maine. the guy did a good job. unfortunatly, i think that im gonna repaint it this spring.
Most generally think that a cold air intake is a waste of time on a stock 22RE. You're probably better off cleaning your throttle body really well to remove the carbon build-up that is inevitably there after that many miles.
I think the best bang for your buck is on the exhaust side followed by a performance cam. A header followed by a 2 1/4" exhaust will add a few horsepower. Unfortunately there's nothing bolt-on out there that I'm aware of that will add a lot of horsepower.
X2. Most folks go with a header (LC engineering is excellent), a 2.25" exhaust pipe, and a "turbo style" muffler as far as engine performance. Some go a bit further with a cam. Other than that, keeping the 22RE well tuned (clean TB, injectors, plugs and wires, etc etc) is about all you can do, it will never generate alot of excess power until you start to spend ALOT of money at LC engineering.
If your truck already runs well, the best street-feel performance mod will be re-gearing your diffs for your larger tire size. search for gear options versus tire size, plenty of info here. Also check whether your truck is already re-geared. Gear time is also a good time to do traction (lockers or LSDs).
- Thread starter
- #6
thanks for the imput.
the one thing i dont have is any type of manual for this truck what so ever so i am gonna look around for one.
one question i have is the shifter nobs on the 4x4 shifter has been changed and no longer has the pattern on them. the one thing i do know is that top left is 2WD then there is bottom right, middle right, and top right. i assume that top right might be 4LO? but i could be wrong. does anyone know the shift pattern?
the one thing i dont have is any type of manual for this truck what so ever so i am gonna look around for one.
one question i have is the shifter nobs on the 4x4 shifter has been changed and no longer has the pattern on them. the one thing i do know is that top left is 2WD then there is bottom right, middle right, and top right. i assume that top right might be 4LO? but i could be wrong. does anyone know the shift pattern?
- Thread starter
- #8
so if top right 4hi and middle right N?
also i took my truck through a little mud for the first time today and i loved it. got my truck all muddy and it felt awesome. right now i have 31/10.5 Wild Country on chevy rims. they have great tread but when they burn down i would love to replace them with 33/11.50 or 33/12. what are your recomendation on tires? i dont need anything super agressive. i only mud like once or twise a week and nothing really muddy. just trails. and i drive highway everyday. also, cheaper the better
also i took my truck through a little mud for the first time today and i loved it. got my truck all muddy and it felt awesome. right now i have 31/10.5 Wild Country on chevy rims. they have great tread but when they burn down i would love to replace them with 33/11.50 or 33/12. what are your recomendation on tires? i dont need anything super agressive. i only mud like once or twise a week and nothing really muddy. just trails. and i drive highway everyday. also, cheaper the better
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 265
- Messages
- 9,822
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
T-case shifter:
......4lo
2hi...N
4hi--4hi
......4lo
2hi...N
4hi--4hi
- Thread starter
- #10
thank you that helps a lot.
one thing that i noticed today as i started driving this morning is that when i give it more than probly 1/3 throttle it starts to bog down. but when i let the throttle back out to 1/3 it speeds up. i was wondering if this way maybe some carbon buildup in the throttle body like someone mentioned before?
my only other trucks i have owned have been carb so i dont know much about fuel injection so i dont really know where to start looking.
thanks for the imput
one thing that i noticed today as i started driving this morning is that when i give it more than probly 1/3 throttle it starts to bog down. but when i let the throttle back out to 1/3 it speeds up. i was wondering if this way maybe some carbon buildup in the throttle body like someone mentioned before?
my only other trucks i have owned have been carb so i dont know much about fuel injection so i dont really know where to start looking.
thanks for the imput
- Thread starter
- #11
a little update. it does not always happen when hit 1/3 throttle. it actually seems to happen randomly. it will bog down and the rpms go way way down. and it takes about 3 seconds for it to stop doing that, and by that time i have to shift down again and then back up. it really sucks when it happens on a hill.
also a quick thing about my blower/heater. i went under my dash and connected some wires and got my blower to work. so i know that it is getting power. but for some reason my switch isnt working. i dont know a lot about electriacal, but my dad knows some. you can hear a click when you turn the switch from off to low. we pulled off a part called the "relay". its a little black box, says TOYOTA relay and 12V. we think this relay might be bad? not really sure. any input?
also a quick thing about my blower/heater. i went under my dash and connected some wires and got my blower to work. so i know that it is getting power. but for some reason my switch isnt working. i dont know a lot about electriacal, but my dad knows some. you can hear a click when you turn the switch from off to low. we pulled off a part called the "relay". its a little black box, says TOYOTA relay and 12V. we think this relay might be bad? not really sure. any input?
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 265
- Messages
- 9,822
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
Does the heater work on any speeds with the switch? You can remove the switch pretty easy, pull the knobs off the heater controls and pry the face off from the end that the clock is not on. Then pull the clear plastic light defuser and there's one screw holding the switch in. Then fish behind the glove box to unplug the end of the plug harness.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 265
- Messages
- 9,822
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
If you have a multi meter, you can check the switch without too much trouble, just find it's plug behind the glove box and test for continuity. better to troubleshoot before buying parts. 
You don't have a blown fuse do you? 
You don't have a blown fuse do you? NorCalBorn
10 Year
15 Year
In my opinion and experience..
If you go with a header and you're in a smog state, beyond the obvious plate showing the emissions compliance, be wary of where the o2 sensor is on the factory header versus on an aftermarket one. I have now seen 3 different manufacturers put the o2 sensor bung in a spot on the collector where it would not read properly because of interference in flow from the y-pipe. It would not read the correct amount of flow and would barely catch 1 cylinders worth causing detonation and idle issues or the system going into closed loop.
In other words, if you go that route, do your research and ask questions in here. make sure if you ask the replies are required to post a pic of where their o2 sensor is and how easily it has passed smog. Don't go by the "oh I don't need to worry about it for "x" years..." bit. If you trust that, by the point it becomes apparent you've passed the header's warranty period, or worse, had on and off detonation occuring.
If you go with a header and you're in a smog state, beyond the obvious plate showing the emissions compliance, be wary of where the o2 sensor is on the factory header versus on an aftermarket one. I have now seen 3 different manufacturers put the o2 sensor bung in a spot on the collector where it would not read properly because of interference in flow from the y-pipe. It would not read the correct amount of flow and would barely catch 1 cylinders worth causing detonation and idle issues or the system going into closed loop.
In other words, if you go that route, do your research and ask questions in here. make sure if you ask the replies are required to post a pic of where their o2 sensor is and how easily it has passed smog. Don't go by the "oh I don't need to worry about it for "x" years..." bit. If you trust that, by the point it becomes apparent you've passed the header's warranty period, or worse, had on and off detonation occuring.
I installed a new LC Engineering header a few weeks ago, replacing one that was almost 10 years old. The old one had the O2 sensor in the #3 collector pipe, right below the brake MC. The new one puts the O2 sensor way down on the main pipe, about 8" in front of the cat. It came with an extension wire kit for the sensor, you cut the connector off of the harness and splice an extension in so it reaches the new location.
My clutch fan started failing and I replaced it with a flex fan from LC Engineering. I am still happy with that decision even though the fan is a little noisy and gets in the way when I am turning the engine manually. I have peace of mind knowing that air is moving when my truck is stopped.
Well, I can't tell any difference. And I don't really keep accurate gas mileage records to tell any difference there either. No CEL lights, all seems good.
My CEL would come on occasionally prior to the swap, but I think it was due to a hole rusted thru the O2 bung. It would turn on for maybe 30 seconds, then turn back off. When I tried to pull any codes out of the ECU, all was normal. Never figured it out, but it hasn't happened once since the swap.
My CEL would come on occasionally prior to the swap, but I think it was due to a hole rusted thru the O2 bung. It would turn on for maybe 30 seconds, then turn back off. When I tried to pull any codes out of the ECU, all was normal. Never figured it out, but it hasn't happened once since the swap.
Cool...