ARCHIVE 80 Series Lock Box- poll and questions

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You want drool? Here is the casting I just took out from the later model 80 series. This thing is huge compared to the LX sheesh. Gonna go drop this bad boy off with my Mechanical Engineer so can take his measurements and that way I can run two protos at the same time.

You can see where the silicone releasing agent pooled to one side :flipoff2:
 
View attachment 1082790 You want drool? Here is the casting I just took out from the later model 80 series. This thing is huge compared to the LX sheesh. Gonna go drop this bad boy off with my Mechanical Engineer so can take his measurements and that way I can run two protos at the same time.

You can see where the silicone releasing agent pooled to one side :flipoff2:
True but we have a bumpin 4" sub in place of useful storage space.....all together now, Oooohhhh, Aahhhh!
 
I will absolutely buy one of these. I have much more use for it than the fire extinguisher holder. These trucks are pretty easy to break into and I often have very valuable things left in my ride.
 
Sign me up for the LC Version! I have been looking for something like this for the last couple of weeks, but have not found anything satisfactory. THIS will be perfect! I will echo almost everyone else's votes: Fire Resistant = No, Water Resistant = Would be Nice but No, Tumbler Key = Yes.

Again, this looks great! Nice job!
 
Sig P229:

Length - 7.5"
Height - 5.5"
Width - 1.625"

Glock G19/G23 (Gen 4)

Length - 7.5"
Height - 5.125"
Width - 1.25"

I understand that the greatest protection is offered with concealment; if a thieve wont find it; it wont get broken into. But in the event he does, question: Will you conduct any type of torture test(s) on the lock box? Specifically, how long/how many whacks with a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer will it take to get into the box?

Also, you may have already mentioned this and I missed it but what price range are you looking to sell these at?
 
Sig P229:

Length - 7.5"
Height - 5.5"
Width - 1.625"

Glock G19/G23 (Gen 4)

Length - 7.5"
Height - 5.125"
Width - 1.25"

Thanks

I understand that the greatest protection is offered with concealment; if a thieve wont find it; it wont get broken into. But in the event he does, question: Will you conduct any type of torture test(s) on the lock box? Specifically, how long/how many whacks with a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer will it take to get into the box?

Also, you may have already mentioned this and I missed it but what price range are you looking to sell these at?

I have considered that but there is one thing extra that works into our favor, this LockBox is designed to be near compression fit inside of our consoles. This means even getting a prybar, screwdriver, hammer, etc into it to get leverage will be difficult already. I'm also changing the lid design a little bit to curl the edge instead of making it flat to the console so that there isn't an edge on the lock side to grab onto. That being said, in order to properly conduct this test it means I would need to set up a proxy unit and destroy the LockBox and the console in order to test this. Since I don't want to mess up by own console or spare or mess up my mounting holes to do this test, it means just making a rig out of plywood and mounting a spare spare console. If you or someone else is truly curious enough to find out then I will need a donated console so that I can have a local monkey kid try and break into it and see how it fares.
 
Destruction test is absurd. It's not about being perfectly secure. It's about being more difficult than the soft sided heep parked next to you.
 
Destruction test is absurd. It's not about being perfectly secure. It's about being more difficult than the soft sided heep parked next to you.

Although true the suggestion has merit. There could easily be a fatal flaw that was not considered using the available software or brain power. I'm ok destroying a box/lid so long as I have a donor console ;)
 
Destruction test is absurd. It's not about being perfectly secure. It's about being more difficult than the soft sided heep parked next to you.

If that's the case this lock box wouldn't have been created in the first place. After all, we have a glove box that locks, right? Sarcasm, not an actual question, to point out that there is nothing "absurd" about it.;)

Although true the suggestion has merit. There could easily be a fatal flaw that was not considered using the available software or brain power. I'm ok destroying a box/lid so long as I have a donor console ;)

Gents, Im not asking for some high-end scientific test conducted. All I wanted to know is how much more difficult it would be for a thief to bust the lock or the lid open as opposed to, say the glove box. I understand sacrificing a production quality lock box may not be that desirable, but should you end up with a prototype unit which isn't up to being sold, bash it with a hammer a few times and see how it holds up.
 
Gents, Im not asking for some high-end scientific test conducted. All I wanted to know is how much more difficult it would be for a thief to bust the lock or the lid open as opposed to, say the glove box. I understand sacrificing a production quality lock box may not be that desirable, but should you end up with a prototype unit which isn't up to being sold, bash it with a hammer a few times and see how it holds up.

This isn't an accurate test because that would be outside the scope of utilization of the LockBox. If you can have it in front of you with a mallet and prybar then that means its already been removed not only the center console but also from the vehicle itself. It then means that the person who absconded with the LockBox now has all the time in the world to figure out how to open it. Trying to open it WHILE its bolted in the center console WHILE its bolted into the vehicle is what gives this particular design its strength. If its to be tested then that is the condition it needs to be tested in. That is what its designed for. Anything outside of those parameters means its being repurposed anywhere. That being said...I'm not warrantying anything against theft so... :flipoff2:

Thieves are smarter than me, I won't pretend.
 
If that's the case this lock box wouldn't have been created in the first place. After all, we have a glove box that locks, right? Sarcasm, not an actual question, to point out that there is nothing "absurd" about it.;)



Gents, Im not asking for some high-end scientific test conducted. All I wanted to know is how much more difficult it would be for a thief to bust the lock or the lid open as opposed to, say the glove box. I understand sacrificing a production quality lock box may not be that desirable, but should you end up with a prototype unit which isn't up to being sold, bash it with a hammer a few times and see how it holds up.

If you want to have an idea of how tough it will be, get the steel specs and buy yourself a piece of scrap metal. Then have at it with your choice of screwdriver, hammer, pry bar, grinding wheel, plasma cutter, whatever. Eventually it will fail. Let us know how many licks to get to the center.
 
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The Medeco install kit has arrived. This is the longer tumbler. I may opt for the shorter one to give more clearance in the LockBox. I see nothing special about the install of this vs any other lock. It comes with two sets of cams with one having an offset. At worst I will have to make my own cam at the offset needed or just elongate the tab on the lock box. The bezel height is barely 1/4" so perfect there.
 
I want a LC console!
I know right. I'm thinking more and more about switching.

You wouldn't miss that awesome bass? The LC Console seems to make things easier, I'll agree with that! If I could get a source for used consoles (at a great price), I'd fix them up and sell them to the LX450 crowd. They aren't hard to make look new again. From what it looks like though, there isn't any abundance of used ones available.
 
I know right. I'm thinking more and more about switching.

I have never looked back. The extra storage space, switch slots, and cubby for the 3D print cup holder/iPhone are great.

The kenwood SW1 I wired to the rear quarter panel more than makes up for the lost woofer and I didn't need the disc changer since upgrading to full feature stereo/nav unit.
 
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