What's the plan of attack on your Line-x? Both sides of the tub?
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- #22
Yes sir, all the bottom up to about 1/2 way up the fire wall (black). All the inside to the same line on the fire wall. (Floor board black)(Wheel wells and sides red) The gas tank cover will get it on edge from the seat to the rocker (black) the rest (red) paint. On the outside, from the top of the rockers down all the way down both sides (charcoal) or (dark gray). The fenders will be painted on top side (red) Line-x underneath (black). Inner fenders probably paint (red), still up in the air on that. Everywhere it will be painted will be (red).
Can't wait to see it. I would recommend coming up with a solution to prevent the grommet hole lip(s) from being coated. For instance your heater line hole. Perhaps just a sacraficial grommet, then razor blade around it when finished. Fuel line hole and rear grommet holes also. I had to grind line-x down to bare metal to get my grommets to fit. Not fun, Line-x is too tough to scrape. Grinding with small dremel bit or melting it with a red hot object are the only two methods I found effective.
Also be thinking where you want your body to frame grounds. Perhaps stack couple washers under those bolt locations to leave a little extra bare metal. I ended up adding a rear frame to tub ground.
Probably other ways to accomplish this, but this is my front fender to frame ground. Don't forget to leave a washer size area of bare metal on the underside where your turn signals mount, I did
.
Need to order a speedo grommet, but you get the drift.
Also be thinking where you want your body to frame grounds. Perhaps stack couple washers under those bolt locations to leave a little extra bare metal. I ended up adding a rear frame to tub ground.
Probably other ways to accomplish this, but this is my front fender to frame ground. Don't forget to leave a washer size area of bare metal on the underside where your turn signals mount, I did
.Need to order a speedo grommet, but you get the drift.
The other thing to think about is your tranny hump. My tub came to me with the inside Rhino lined to the firewall including the perimeter lip that the tranny hump sits on.
Topside of tranny hump was Rhino'd. Good thing underside of the hump was bare metal, cause when I went to bolt it down, the thickness of just the vertical firewall coating pushed the hump rearward a scoshe, causing sligh mis-alignment of the floor bolts . And the thickness of the horzintal coating raised the hump so that the bolts used to fasten the hump to the vertical firewall were slightly mis-aligned. Wasn't a huge deal, just something to think about.
When I had the underside of my tub Line-x'd I forgot to bring my tranny hump along. If I would have had it coated seperately as planned, I think all the bolt holes would have been badly misaligned.
If I ever do another tub I would consider spraying the hump in place, then go around the edges with a box knife to remove it. Food for thought anywho.
Topside of tranny hump was Rhino'd. Good thing underside of the hump was bare metal, cause when I went to bolt it down, the thickness of just the vertical firewall coating pushed the hump rearward a scoshe, causing sligh mis-alignment of the floor bolts . And the thickness of the horzintal coating raised the hump so that the bolts used to fasten the hump to the vertical firewall were slightly mis-aligned. Wasn't a huge deal, just something to think about.
When I had the underside of my tub Line-x'd I forgot to bring my tranny hump along. If I would have had it coated seperately as planned, I think all the bolt holes would have been badly misaligned.
If I ever do another tub I would consider spraying the hump in place, then go around the edges with a box knife to remove it. Food for thought anywho.
Some of my details are fuzzy, some are like it happened yesterday, I occasionaly remember things I shoulda done different.
Save a patch of bare metal under each the rear side marker bolts(for the ground wire obviously).
Here's my rear frame to tub ground. I think @Coolerman is a big believer in plenty of grounds. Still lots small details on this 76 that need to be addressed. My white 71 stole the brown 76's spot in the garage. I forgot about that bolt on the wrong side of the heat shield. Zip tie will go bye-bye eventually.
Your gunna love crawling under your 40 and see light glistening off the Line-x. This stuff hoses down nicely.
Save a patch of bare metal under each the rear side marker bolts(for the ground wire obviously).
Here's my rear frame to tub ground. I think @Coolerman is a big believer in plenty of grounds. Still lots small details on this 76 that need to be addressed. My white 71 stole the brown 76's spot in the garage. I forgot about that bolt on the wrong side of the heat shield. Zip tie will go bye-bye eventually.
Your gunna love crawling under your 40 and see light glistening off the Line-x. This stuff hoses down nicely.
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- #28
Well finally got back to repairing the spare carrier. Tubs been lined and my son gone back to Cali., so its back to work. Got the carrier sand blasted a while back and primed it. But before it got primed masked all the pinch welds where they were cut out. So I took all the tape off and squirted weld thru primer.
The support got the same treatment. When all but the places the new L shaped pieces was painted, I laid the support bracket back in the carrier lined it right back up on the cut out pinch welds. Measured from the ends of the support bracket to the lip of the carrier. There's no good way really to hold the new pieces in the support so I measured it a few times and tacked in the pieces on one end.
Came out pretty close.
Re measured the other end and tacked those in. Then traced around the ears so I would know where to clean off the paint and spray the weld thru at.
Grind those spots smooth as you want those ears to lay flat when clamp them down and weld.
You can see some bare spots along the outside edges of the weld thru, they are outside the outside edge of the support and will get primed after its all welded up.
Came out pretty close.
Re measured the other end and tacked those in. Then traced around the ears so I would know where to clean off the paint and spray the weld thru at.
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- #29
And BTW don't forget to clean all the primer out of the holes and anywhere your going to weld BEFORE you tack it down.
Or you will end up like I did causing yourself a lot work cleaning up your mess, buckshot, splatter and pin holes. This is what it shouldn't look like!
That's after I cleaned it up some so you could see it.
Or you will end up like I did causing yourself a lot work cleaning up your mess, buckshot, splatter and pin holes. This is what it shouldn't look like!
That's after I cleaned it up some so you could see it.
@gator25
Nice work!! Thanks for the tip. Im going to have to do a better job at cleaning off the weld through primer, before I weld. Some of my welds look fabulous other times they are like you said
Nice work!! Thanks for the tip. Im going to have to do a better job at cleaning off the weld through primer, before I weld. Some of my welds look fabulous other times they are like you said
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- #31
I'm sorry @oldschool4wheeling, should have made myself more clear. It was the gray primer I was revering to, there was a lot of paint on the wall of the holes. Got in a hurry and tacked it down to good to get it back off. You should have seen the mess before I scrubbed it with a scotch brit pad. If you run in to that (pin holes, buck shot, splatter) stop and try to clean it up. (and of course make sure you still have gas) More weld ain't going to fix it, that'll just cause more work.
Awesome work. Great example of how much unseen rust is between spot welds and how to repair it properly. Unfortunately almost no high dollar restorations do it and go that far.
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- #33
Thanks man, figured if I was going this far might as well try to get as much rust out as possible. I wanted to cut the quarters off and take all the filler out just to have look see, but that's another story.
@gator25
Just saw a photo of the inside of your tub. It looks perfect. I like that shade of red. I’m curious what liner you used?
Hopefully you shot that same red liner on your gas tank cover. The gas tank cover on my 12/75 got painted, no bueno.
Just saw a photo of the inside of your tub. It looks perfect. I like that shade of red. I’m curious what liner you used?
Hopefully you shot that same red liner on your gas tank cover. The gas tank cover on my 12/75 got painted, no bueno.
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- #35
@thebigredrocker its Line X, we painted the gas tank cover to. Thinking we should get it lined now.
If you trim it out like I did, do yourself a favor and make sure you have enough longer bolts (91661-60625) by the way they're cheaper then the (91661-40625) go figure. I got the gasket kit from SOR that came with bolts that really are not long enough. Used the fore mentioned bolts that I had to pull it down with then used the ones that came in the kit. The gasket is a good fit but with the trim I was worried about it sealing. Found some weather stripping at Ace Hardware that worked good. Like you said to do we did not line the outer bolt flange under side. Thank gawd. Used phillip head screw drivers to align the holes.
![IMG_20171129_212156367~2[11626].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_20171129_212156367-2-11626-webp.1583519/ "IMG_20171129_212156367~2[11626].webp")
Put the weather stripping around the inside, had to redo the rear portion because it was to far forward and didn't land on the flange. Once bolted down it sealed great. The adhesive sticks really good.
![IMG_20171129_212210699[11627].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_20171129_212210699-11627-webp.1583520/ "IMG_20171129_212210699[11627].webp")
It came out pretty good. That weather stripping you see in the pic was not used it was to wide and dense.
![IMG_20171129_224014422[11628].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_20171129_224014422-11628-webp.1583522/ "IMG_20171129_224014422[11628].webp")
If you trim it out like I did, do yourself a favor and make sure you have enough longer bolts (91661-60625) by the way they're cheaper then the (91661-40625) go figure. I got the gasket kit from SOR that came with bolts that really are not long enough. Used the fore mentioned bolts that I had to pull it down with then used the ones that came in the kit. The gasket is a good fit but with the trim I was worried about it sealing. Found some weather stripping at Ace Hardware that worked good. Like you said to do we did not line the outer bolt flange under side. Thank gawd. Used phillip head screw drivers to align the holes.
Put the weather stripping around the inside, had to redo the rear portion because it was to far forward and didn't land on the flange. Once bolted down it sealed great. The adhesive sticks really good.
It came out pretty good. That weather stripping you see in the pic was not used it was to wide and dense.
Shoot... I didn’t seal my tranny hump, guess I better put that on my “to-do” list. That makes sense to seal that puppy up.
Yeah on the gas tank cover, it’s perfectly situated to get scratched all to hell. Not a biggie, just something I’d do different next time.
Yeah on the gas tank cover, it’s perfectly situated to get scratched all to hell. Not a biggie, just something I’d do different next time.