75 spare carrier on late model sill (1 Viewer)

[gator25]

We got our sill from Real Steel Cruiser Parts along all the repair panels, with the exception of the small patches I got from @rkymtnflyfisher .(Thanks Ryan)
After fretting about where exactly to mount the spare tire carrier, studying @TractorDoc pics, waiting on the right latch, finally got it mounted. BTW thanks Doc.

Wanted to make sure when the holes where drilled the latch would hold the carrier closed tight and level. The pic below shows what happens when you get in a hurry.

The bottom left hole landed on the edge of the nut already in the late model sill, this would not had happen if a small bit was used to make a pilot hole. Then stepping to larger bits, don't just try to use the hook for a guide with a large bit. It will be hidden but I'll always know its there. Don't think I can live with that, I'll weld it up and re drill it. The nut plate we got for the top hinge was for a different model also, so I welded in few more nuts.

 

[gator25]

Had to fill in the holes one of the POs had drilled to use the wrong latch.

Working on it

Done. Couldn't get my spoon behind the left hole, keep your nozzle at a angle and try to tack the inside bottom edge and work out.

 

[gator25]

Wouldn't you know it, had some spider web cracks on one of the top holes.

Forgot to take a pic after I grooved all the cracks, but I had to grind out 5 cracks and weld it up.

 

[gator25]

Here comes the fun part, and I thought I was almost done.

But it gets better.

 

[gator25]

Now to fix it. For the newer then me guys or folks that haven't replaced or repaired panels I'm going to show how I went about it. I don't usually show all the things I do to get to where I'm done. You could probably do a half ass job of tacking it back up with the support in the carrier, and not worry about all the rust and other cracks hidden in there. I can't, so its got to come off. First you got to find the pinch welds, I used some 220 grit and rubbed till I found them.

Take a center punch to it.

Drill a pilot hole in each one, make it deep enough to keep the cutter from walking. I try to get through 1st panel and about 1/2 way into the other. I use a 7/64" for the pilot hole for the broach cutter, use the black drill bit the gold colored ones are to brittle and will break.

Here's the cutter, if you are going to replace just one panel do yourself a favor and one of these kits. Most of the time I use the 3/8" bit. I use them all the time for other stuff as well. Get the stick of lube with it, helluva lot less of a mess then using some type of oil. Lube the bit often and it will last a long time.

 

[gator25]

When cutting out the weld take your time use a slower speed, it will cut better and last longer. When cutting old stuff like this you will see a rust ring when it gets through the 1st panel.

Make sure you cut through the first panel but not through the other one, you'll get the hang of it in no time.

For end tabs that you can't get to with a drill, the support is in way. I just cut them off, got to replace them anyway.
Put on a big cutting disk so you can get through it, or most of the way.

Might have to take a chisel and finish the cut.

Now get that big ass cutting disk off there before you jack up a finger.

 

[gator25]

Now to get those tabs off, now that you can get to them.

Your drill will still be at a angle but not to bad, just got to be careful not to go to deep. The outside edge of the cutter went through the tab but not the inside before I decided to play it safe and just use my trusty Toyota screw driver to pry it off.

Both sides done.

 

[gator25]

Time to start fixing. Ground some off where the tab broke off and cleaned it up some.

Didn't take any off where the flange was pinch welded to the carrier just beveled the edge, so it would fit right. Clamped her down on something flat.

Here's a shot of my machine and what it's set on, got the gas set about 25 when you hit the trigger. You might have to play with your wire speed some but its going to be close. Hope this helps someone just starting out.

Tacked it in few spots and took the left clamp off, tacked a few more.

Then turned her over and grooved out the cracks.

 

[gator25]

Welded up the grooved out cracks.

Did the same to all the other cracks, and put some weld through primer on where I plan to put the new tabs. Made up some new tabs, not sure but I believe it should be strong enough. May put another piece on the inside running the full length down either side. Don't want it flexing and cracking again down the road.

 

[gator25]

For you Harley Heathens out there, (or anyone who rides) there're 2 kinds of riders the ones that have been down, and the ones that are going to. I always have someone wanting me to straighten out handle bars, so I built a simple tool to do it.

Mount the bars to a table, get out your angle finder and in a min. your done. Saved yourself some coin.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Excellent @gator25 !!!! In a couple of weeks I'll be trying to mount my passenger side tire carrier to my 79. I'll use it as my gas can carrier!!

Glad to see your work! It has helped me with some of my questions that keep me up at night!!

 

[rrv333]

Where did you get that latch Gator25? Did you buy it or did you recondition an old one?

 

[gator25]

Excellent @gator25 !!!! In a couple of weeks I'll be trying to mount my passenger side tire carrier to my 79. I'll use it as my gas can carrier!!

Glad to see your work! It has helped me with some of my questions that keep me up at night!!

Good deal @oldschool4wheeling and I'm glad I posted something that helped.

@rrv333 I got another used latch from Classic Cruisers, I usually talk to Glen or Brandon. I've been using them for a while, always quick and if they don't have it they find it. But Georg (@ Valley Hybrids) may have it has well as Mark (Marks off Road). I've gotten stuff from all 3 of them, no complaints. Mark usually likes to have someone order more then just 1 item to make it worth his while.

 

[rrv333]

Good deal @oldschool4wheeling and I'm glad I posted something that helped.

@rrv333 I got another used latch from Classic Cruisers, I usually talk to Glen or Brandon. I've been using them for a while, always quick and if they don't have it they find it. But Georg (@ Valley Hybrids) may have it has well as Mark (Marks off Road). I've gotten stuff from all 3 of them, no complaints. Mark usually likes to have someone order more then just 1 item to make it worth his while.

Thanks for the information

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

@gator25 I have a question or ten.

I don't remember what year your rig is, but is your rear sill boxed in or is it open channel? My 79 has a boxed in channel rear sill and I can't access the back side to weld my captive nuts.

I ordered 8mm metric "pal nuts" to insert in sill and collapse them. ( I'll post a pic in the morning of what I'm talking about.) But I'm beginning to wonder if they will have enough room to collapse, being so close to the top and bottom of the sill.

And could you elaborate on how got your measurements for proper alignment and fit?

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Sorry, I miss spoke, not "pal nuts", but Plus Nuts. They are a collapseable nut insert. And my concern is will there be enough room for it to collapse, being close to the top and bottom?

 

[gator25]

@oldschool4wheeling the sill I have is open channel in the back, remember Doug I'm new at this too. I'm certainly no expert but I'll help anyway I can. Our 40 is a 2/75 ambi. doors. I got @TractorDoc to take some measurements and photos off one his other 40s, they're on his build thread. It looks way more difficult then it is, get all your stuff together before you start drilling holes. The hinges are built to fit on the curve of the quarter that's probably one of the most important points, as you don't want it to deform when you tighten it down. As you know the bottom hinge bolts through the sill. I left the hinges on the carrier then held it up against the tub with the hook in the latch, I'd use something to block it up with to help support it. Get some help holding the carrier up, while you figure out exactly where to mark to drill your holes. Then after I was sure it was in right spot I would hold the hook in latch and mark where to drill those holes. As far as having enough room for those captive nuts I'm not sure, when it came time I'd drill the holes and see. Probably going to be pretty hard to get them exactly right with the other holes. I hope this helps.

 

[gator25]

Just to update fixed the hole in the sill, welded it up and started over.

Carrier has been put on hold for the moment, need to get tub and fenders ready to be Line-Xed.
Shouldn't be long.

 

[CHCP]

Sorry, I miss spoke, not "pal nuts", but Plus Nuts. They are a collapseable nut insert. And my concern is will there be enough room for it to collapse, being close to the top and bottom?
View attachment 1453399 View attachment 1453400

You probably have the riv-nut gun already.
I bought a Muzata Heavy Duty rivet nut gun to insert 8mm nuts into 1/8" steel square tubing and had a h--- of a time. the nuts didn't seem to have enough room to compress and I ended up squeezing the handles of the rivet nut gun with a pair of pump pliers so it would release, I did 6 out of 8 and then the gun literally fell apart. I like the concept of riv nuts maybe I just used the wrong gun or quality tool???

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

These Plus nuts are designed to be used on fiberglass too. They have a wide foot print when expaned. So that is my concern when using them so close to the top and bottom of the sill.

I was too cheap to buy the $145 tool to compress them. So I opted for the highest grade 8mm bolt they had to do my compressing. It like a grade 10 or something. I hope it is strong enough to do the job!!