Build 70 FJ40 (Here we go!)

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Called over to Skyjacker and am waiting for a call back for clarification on springs being different.

*EDIT* - Roger at Skyjacker got me straightened out and before they were shipped he was able to get the rear springs added to equal the front. I gave him wrong information on the shackle reversal which was my fault. Should be 2.5 of lift all the way around now. I also ended up purchasing a Monroe SC2915 steering dampener off amazon for $42 that I saw on a mud post and a guy was using as a direct replacement. Hopefully it works for my needs as its not that expensive. If not, ill just go the usual route that most do when replacing and spend the extra money.

On a different note, my friend dropped by to help me get the 40 over to his shop with his others so we could do some work on it. We could not get it to turn over but it did crank, we noted that fuel is getting to the carb but noticed that the wire leading from the ignition through the firewall into the carburetor solenoid was cut. We wanted to make sure that the wire was still getting power to it, but it was not after further investigation. Our next move is to more than likely replace the wire to see if that fixes the problem and if not we will pull a solenoid off another carb we have sitting.

More than likely I will end up getting a OE carb to replace it down the road but for now we just want to get it going.

I also have been looking at buying a brake booster for my 70 year model as it does not have one and just keep the drum brakes for now. I did however see that there is not much space for one since the pillar on the firewall runs right next to the brake fluid res. Any photos of someone having an issue like this?

Eventually I will end up replacing everything with disc or simply wait to buy another 40 that has them and keep the 70 for our ranch to ride around on since its not super important to have disc brakes out there.

Once we have got spark/fuel/oxygen situation figured out we will then go ahead and replace the old distributor and put in the DUI distributor.
 
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Took a break from working “on” the 40 since it’s at my buddies shop. I took the time to work on the roll bar since it wasn’t on the 40 to begin with. I ended up doing some flap disc grinding and removing the rust as best I could. I probably didn’t do the best job but I did what I could.

Ended up throwing some primer on afterwards and tomorrow will throw on the paint!



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Past few days we have been working on the carb/distributor. We figured out the solenoid for the carb was no bueno and replaced it with a spare my buddy had on the rack. Once we got that sorted it was showing to have power to it so we went ahead and threw in the DUI distributor and live wires.

We also got it to TDC (top dead center) by checking the mark and the fly wheel. We know we are good there, but couldn’t get it to fully crank. We sprayed into the carb and was wanting to crank but she couldn’t get there. We might be off on the timing with the DUI distributor and would love help if anyone has any suggestions or wisdom/knowledge on the subject (I’ll check DUI threads tonight).

Check out that goodness on the fly wheel!

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Called over to Skyjacker and am waiting for a call back for clarification on springs being different.

*EDIT* - Roger at Skyjacker got me straightened out and before they were shipped he was able to get the rear springs added to equal the front. I gave him wrong information on the shackle reversal which was my fault. Should be 2.5 of lift all the way around now. I also ended up purchasing a Monroe SC2915 steering dampener off amazon for $42 that I saw on a mud post and a guy was using as a direct replacement. Hopefully it works for my needs as its not that expensive. If not, ill just go the usual route that most do when replacing and spend the extra money.

On a different note, my friend dropped by to help me get the 40 over to his shop with his others so we could do some work on it. We could not get it to turn over but it did crank, we noted that fuel is getting to the carb but noticed that the wire leading from the ignition through the firewall into the carburetor solenoid was cut. We wanted to make sure that the wire was still getting power to it, but it was not after further investigation. Our next move is to more than likely replace the wire to see if that fixes the problem and if not we will pull a solenoid off another carb we have sitting.

More than likely I will end up getting a OE carb to replace it down the road but for now we just want to get it going.

I also have been looking at buying a brake booster for my 70 year model as it does not have one and just keep the drum brakes for now. I did however see that there is not much space for one since the pillar on the firewall runs right next to the brake fluid res. Any photos of someone having an issue like this?

Eventually I will end up replacing everything with disc or simply wait to buy another 40 that has them and keep the 70 for our ranch to ride around on since its not super important to have disc brakes out there.

Once we have got spark/fuel/oxygen situation figured out we will then go ahead and replace the old distributor and put in the DUI distributor.
Not completely sure from your photos but looks like you have single circuit brakes. Just plumb a remote booster in wherever you can fit one - 7'' Lockheed/Girling or similar. Here's an Australian PBR on mine, you'll have to find room somewhere different but should be doable.

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Not completely sure from your photos but looks like you have single circuit brakes. Just plumb a remote booster in wherever you can fit one - 7'' Lockheed/Girling or similar. Here's an Australian PBR on mine, you'll have to find room somewhere different but should be doable.

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Thanks for the info and suggestion! I’ll look into that!
 
You will need 4°steel caster shims with those longer shackle
Jim, thanks for the info! I received it like this and plan to do some changes as I just got in the 2.5 lift from skyjacker and bilstein 2.5s. Do you recommend changing out the shackles all together or do you think these should be fine?
 
4" spring need longer shackle but with 2.5" spring you don't need more than 3" bolt to bolt , look like you have 4" or more , stock one are 2.75"
Thanks, Jim. Appreciate the info. Still learning here on the 40 and will take all I can as far as advice goes.
 
We have been doing a few things here and there on the 40 lately. One thing I did was pull the none stock battery tray that was mounted to the oem battery tray and wire wheeled them both and painted them. While I was in there, I was thinking now would be a good time to clean the fuel filter and rebuild it and the replace the soft lines.

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I dumped the fuel out and have a great looking tank I picked up from @KillerPea for it but don’t want to install till I get new soft lines and rebuild the filter and fuel pump.

I’ve seen some folks go with braided steel line and some go with just rubber. Any suggestions or concerns on either and if someone sells a kit with right lengths already? I do not want the redline kit since it’s the clear hose plus it’s pretty pricey.



Also looking for oem radiator hoses and such but I was told they are discontinued and am on the hunt for a good set that will work well, let me know if you have a good suggestion.

I picked up a front axle with disc brakes from @KillerPea along with a Saginaw power steering pump and pully with bracket to go with the mini truck power steering gear box.



Once I get the parts for the carb/brakes/booster and master cylinder in from Mark @65swb45 I should be set for a bit.

The plan is to get everything installed lift/power steering/brakes/rear tail lights/seats so I can make it out to Roundup25 and then get to work tearing it down to do sandblasting and paint for the frame and body. If I can get it all done prior to Roundup I will but not sure I can make it happen in that quick of a time frame.
 
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We have been doing a few things here and there on the 40 lately. One thing I did was pull the none stock battery tray that was mounted to the oem battery tray and wire wheeled them both and painted them. While I was in there, I was thinking now would be a good time to clean the fuel filter and rebuild it and the replace the soft lines.

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I dumped the fuel out and have a great looking tank I picked up from @KillerPea for it but don’t want to install till I get new soft lines and rebuild the filter and fuel pump.

I’ve seen some folks go with braided steel line and some go with just rubber. Any suggestions or concerns on either and if someone sells a kit with right lengths already? I do not want the redline kit since it’s the clear hose plus it’s pretty pricey.



Also looking for oem radiator hoses and such but I was told they are discontinued and am on the hunt for a good set that will work well, let me know if you have a good suggestion.

I picked up a front axle with disc brakes from @KillerPea along with a Saginaw power steering pump and pully with bracket to go with the mini truck power steering gear box.



Once I get the parts for the carb/brakes/booster and master cylinder in from Mark @65swb45 I should be set for a bit.

The plan is to get everything installed lift/power steering/brakes/rear tail lights/seats so I can make it out to Roundup25 and then get to work tearing it down to do sandblasting and paint for the frame and body. If I can get it all done prior to Roundup I will but not sure I can make it happen in that quick of a time frame.
☹️ Clay, you need to call your bank.
 
☹️ Clay, you need to call your bank.
I will call tomorrow. Give me a call when you are able as I’m not sure what the issue is. Funds are there. Called today to verify that you received the check as I kept looking at my account but funds never were withdrawn.
 
I will call tomorrow. Give me a call when you are able as I’m not sure what the issue is. Funds are there. Called today to verify that you received the check as I kept looking at my account but funds never were withdrawn.
@65swb45 , I spoke to the bank. There was an error somewhere on the account but the bank just told me it’s been resolved and you can process the check. If you do not have the check, please let me know and I’ll issue you another one today and get it in the mail. I apologize for the issue, Mark.
Call me if you need or simply respond here, whichever you prefer.
 
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Made a temporary fix for the fuel line and fuel filter so I can run it down the road. Once I get it going back over to my friends shop, I’ll get the new tank installed, add the OE fuel filter and housing along with new line. My buddy spent some time last night cleaning my OE filter housing with the glass since I had to run… it’s an early 70 year 40 and I believe they still had glass at that time, along with the old clear lines.
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It’s has been awhile but I have been collecting parts to install once able. I have new heater hoses and have the radiator apart and going through it. I also cleaned up the thermostat housing and have a new oe thermostat to go in. I am thinking of putting new header on it as mine looks to be toast. @65swb45, do you still sell these, I read on a prior thread I believe that you have headers but that thread was pretty old. Also, do you have shackles as I believe someone on Facebook was selling a set and said they got them from a guy named Mark in California but didn’t have info on the shackles themselves..

I believe for my 2.5 lift I am doing that my shackles might not be great according to some on here, as they might be too tall and I need closer to factory possibly. Would love input on that.


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As I said yesterday, we will talk.😉
 
As I said yesterday, we will talk.😉
You the man, thanks Mark. Also, I am not sure if you make it to many events but if you are headed to Lonestar Roundup in Texas in a few weeks I would love to say hello and shake your hand. Talk soon!
 
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