Builds 6.0 Vortec LQ9 - FJ60 Engine Swap - Old Blue's Heart Transplant (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

I know that I have seen one where the guys lays out the harness, cuts it back himself to the essentials needed for the swap and then documents the install. I started a "Theorycrafting" thread on the V8 swaps a couple years ago but it got some good traction but eventually spun out. I know that @cruisermatt is going through a similar swap now, so may be has some insight? Also, Ed (@cruiser enthuiser) is local to us if you can get him up to you.

 

[yukon721]

Over the endless search. What is this, what does it do and do I need it? My harness didn’t come with a connector for it. Which is why I’m asking.

Unit with green cap on top of motor. Electrical plug-in to left of it. Unit is located on top/front above and behind throttle body. Plastic tube from the unit runs to backend of motor with a little white clip/cap on end. Isnt connected to anything at present moment in the back.

 

[MANUCHAO]

^^^that is part of you evaporative fuel system..
The electrical plug is for evap purge selinoid the hose goes to the evap canister....

Not sure if you can do away with it..

Google Image Result for https://chevroletforum.com/forum/attachments/tahoe-suburban-25/1862d1272334327-help-p0449-p0455-codes-gm-evap01.gif

 

[daytonadogie]

Are you going to keep or do away with the evap system? Does your harness allow you to keep it? If so it should have a plug for the evap purge shown in your pic, evap vent, fuel tank pressure sensor , and maybe Fuel level sensor.

 

[Elbert]

I'm not aware of a one-stop shop type of thread on the engine swaps that really covers all the wiring that well. The only real wiring that I can think of off hand is the ALT and the A/C controls. You have the battery cable that connects to the stater and the stock starter wire connects easly to the starter and the engine wiring harness may get a power feed from the starter. They other thing is the A/C compressor, some folks just tag off the toyota factory wire and use a relay inline to then turn on the GM a/c. at the compressor. You can get ign on signal off the pos wire that feed the pos side of the coil. The other trick is getting the stock dash A/c controls to work with the ac amplifer and or getting the stock tach to work with the gm engine if so inclined.

Like some of the guys mentioned above you may have to deal with some of the emissions crap depending on where you live and the rules there...I did not based on my location.

 

[yukon721]

^^^that is part of you evaporative fuel system..
The electrical plug is for evap purge selinoid the hose goes to the evap canister....

Not sure if you can do away with it..

Google Image Result for https://chevroletforum.com/forum/attachments/tahoe-suburban-25/1862d1272334327-help-p0449-p0455-codes-gm-evap01.gif

Both you and Cam confirmed. Thanks! My harness didn't have a plug for it. Wasn't too worried about smog regulators, but I did want to use my charcoal canister so theory as of now is to get a standalone plug and tie it in somehow. I believe you can buy Purge Solenoid delete plugs as well, but thinking I'd like the charcoal canister - which also seems to have a little lack of documentation on it as well. (I'll make sure I post up when thats squared away)

 

[Elbert]

Get squared away on the ALT wiring and at least you can have the truck running while you deal with some of the other things.... there are some connecters you can acquire from NAPA on the alt...depending on how you want to go and if you want the alt guage to work. Don't do like I initally did..."let the smoke out of the fuseable link" I'm running a GM CS144 ALT...and for reference my engine is the 5.7 vortec. I think Cam likely has some notes on the ALT setup

You may have an issue with your engine harness...does the model of your engine harness presume non-emissions?

 

[yukon721]

I'm not aware of a one-stop shop type of thread on the engine swaps that really covers all the wiring that well. The only real wiring that I can think of off hand is the ALT and the A/C controls. You have the battery cable that connects to the stater and the stock starter wire connects easly to the starter and the engine wiring harness may get a power feed from the starter. They other thing is the A/C compressor, some folks just tag off the toyota factory wire and use a relay inline to then turn on the GM a/c. at the compressor. You can get ign on signal off the pos wire that feed the pos side of the coil. The other trick is getting the stock dash A/c controls to work with the ac amplifer and or getting the stock tach to work with the gm engine if so inclined.

Like some of the guys mentioned above you may have to deal with some of the emissions crap depending on where you live and the rules there...I did not based on my location.

Good info. Thank you. Yeah just trying to make sure I don't miss anything with the wiring of the old harness. Its easy to overthink it all. I'm sure there is no definitive guide on all of it. The wire portion is what makes my head spin. I'm just not to savvy with that side of things being my first swap and wrapping my head around two separate harnesses and how to mate em up correctly. Smog regulations are lax where I live as well. It was built to "not" be smog compliant.

 

[yukon721]

Are you going to keep or do away with the evap system? Does your harness allow you to keep it? If so it should have a plug for the evap purge shown in your pic, evap vent, fuel tank pressure sensor , and maybe Fuel level sensor.

The harness was built for a non smog compliant system. So I would assume thats reason I don't have a plug there. Now that I know what it is it makes sense. However I think I'll still utilize my charcoal canister so I plan on getting a standalone plug to compensate for that.

 

[yukon721]

Things to do list - It never gets shorter. Convinced the last 10% is the most boring and most time consuming part of the build. I'm sure there will be another page after this one.

 

[yukon721]

.

 

[White Stripe]

Over the endless search. What is this, what does it do and do I need it? My harness didn’t come with a connector for it. Which is why I’m asking.

Unit with green cap on top of motor. Electrical plug-in to left of it. Unit is located on top/front above and behind throttle body. Plastic tube from the unit runs to backend of motor with a little white clip/cap on end. Isnt connected to anything at present moment in the back.

View attachment 1759338

My v8 project I bought had no emissions hooked up either and had no provisions in the harness. I added all the emissions back onto the LS and had the ecu reflashed for it. Check my thread below for more info if you want. Its the urban assault cruiser one.

 

[yukon721]

I’ve been putting this off for a while. Not cause of lack of motivation, but rather lack of ideas. Mounting this radiator has been a thorn in my side. If you’re looking for an easy solution radiator wise, this isn’t the one. The Griffen Univesal model come with zero mounting options. To make matters worse the top and bottom have Aluminum fins that stick up and form a channel or Valley that make it difficult to get a grip on any kinda structure to really clamp down on it. The radiator is also very wide eliminating many stock bolt hole options to try and tie into.

On to the theatrics.

Chop

Weld

Stitch

Beaded up

Mock up looks good.

Essentially what you have is an upsidedown C Channel built for the application. That slides into the valley of the radiator fins. From there two pieces of angle were welded on for a half inch drop to rest and bolt to the deck of the two front support beams of the frame. The channel runs the full width of radiator locking it in. Get to the top brackets today.

 

[yukon721]

These are the aluminum fins that stick up or valley that run the length of the radiator on both top and bottom.

 

[yukon721]

There’s not much left that is eye appealing. Now its all the little things. But the Devil’s in the details. And the details are never ending.

These are the tees that transition my main heater hoses down to the rear heater pick-ups. Found some
Plastic ones, but spent a little more and got these aluminum ones from Jags.

Got the Cadillac pedal Aseembly mounted where I want it. As you can see the actual pedal will never work. Gonna chop and weld the Original Toyota Pedal in place shortly.

Charcoal Canister Getting a Mississippi paint job.

AC Compressor Adapters to mate up Toyota lines to GM compressor. Technically Am building all new lines, with new AC Drier, Expansion Valve & Evaporator.

I’ll go into detail on all this as the project progresses. For now I’m still trying to map it out myself.

 

[yukon721]

Routed all the wires and managed to coax the fuse block through the firewall.

Luckily only about 3 or 4 of these are actually needed.

My wiring harness doesn’t have the length to house my gas pedal computer inside the cab. From the looks of it, it seems the unit was originally under the hood so I’ll have to find a snug spot for it. Got a couple in mind.

Took a peek at how to wire the new brake switch. Most of this stuff is foreign to me. But I’ll post up all the details when each part is finished and proper.

Got my rear driveline shortened and sitting on my garage floor. Lets be honest, we’ve all seen a driveline. Ya may be more interested in how the hell I’m gonna make the front driveline work. Me too. Keep ya posted.

Well not much to show for these last few days. Turns out coming up with a plan of attack for these different issues / procedures / systems can take on a life of its own and leave ya with more questions than solutions.

As @FJ60Cam mentioned “ You’re at the False Summit” - in that once you’ve purchased all the goods and the motor looks ready to run, thats when you realize you’re only half way there. Couldn’t be said better.

If you’re a newbie like I am, this is the stage that will test your patience.

 

[gregnash]

Looks like you are going to have to "massage" that edge of the pan and then clock the cat some to allow for room.

Once you get her moving again you will have to bring her to Reno for one of our monthly group meetings to show her off!!

 

[MANUCHAO]

I see the wire on the cat...
i take it is not burned in yet?
Turn it 90° and close to the frame....
I run my front DS upside down and it clears the tranny pan by 1/4"... looks like you might have the clearance as well...

 

[yukon721]

I see the wire on the cat...
i take it is not burned in yet?
Turn it 90° and close to the frame....
I run my front DS upside down and it clears the tranny pan by 1/4"... looks like you might have the clearance as well...

Yeah thats Bailing Wire for support for now
During mock up. Gonna have to rotate the Cat for sure.

 

[yukon721]

Played with the gas pedal this eve. Got it where it felt right in the truck and used the duct tape / Zip tie method for Mock up.

Welded Up in Place.