Build 6.0 Vortec LQ9 - FJ60 Engine Swap - Old Blue's Heart Transplant

[yukon721]

Received these little gems from
Jags. Radiator outlets are larger than inlets on motor. So these transition the hose sizes. Also allows to tie in the steam vent to upper Rad line and has a coolant viewing window - in case there’s nothing on TV worth watching

Got most of the wiring harness on and clipped in. Also received my ECU.

Still plenty to keep me busy. Close your eyes and pick one. It never gets old.

Started looking at Air intake options. K&N seems to clear fan, hood, and radiator lines. Not a fan of the intake box that takes up half the engine bay and a few other discrepancies. So back it went. Search continues. But looks pretty good with it exiting the throttle body.

Guess thats about it thus far. Schedule for next few days.

Gas pedal cut & weld
Finalize mounting radiator
Fab Shifter bracket for Lokar Shifter
Tackle AC
Untangle and connect some wires
Weld on a bit of downpipe for 02 sensors
Locate a intake system
Maybe eat some food
Definetly drink some beer
Turn a key? We’ll see. Maybe too ambitious for this week.

 

[cruisermatt]

Keep it up. We’re both on the home stretch!

 

[Elbert]

watch your sharp edges around your hose routing...get some of that edge moulding stuff to put on the simple metal holes to avoid abrasion. Spend some time doing that now..while you can easily get to everything....you might also want to use some wire loom or something similar over your hoses where they cross sharp edges or have the potential to do that. Same thing applies to your wiring harness on the engine etc. Loom every bit of the engine harness/wiring harness...suffer a little bit now vs. a lot later...

 

[NCFJ]

Elbert is right on the mark, those holes in the core support and firewall will cut through wires and hoses in no time. You can also slit 1/4" vacuum hose and wrap it around the holes as well.

 

[yukon721]

Keep it up. We’re both on the home stretch!

Good thing too. Wearing thin! Haha

 

[yukon721]

watch your sharp edges around your hose routing...get some of that edge moulding stuff to put on the simple metal holes to avoid abrasion. Spend some time doing that now..while you can easily get to everything....you might also want to use some wire loom or something similar over your hoses where they cross sharp edges or have the potential to do that. Same thing applies to your wiring harness on the engine etc. Loom every bit of the engine harness/wiring harness...suffer a little bit now vs. a lot later...

Great Suggestion. I’ll get on it.

 

[yukon721]

Lets talk Lokar Shifters. The shifter itself looks awesome and essentially keeps the truck looking like a stick even though its an auto (if ya go that route). The one I’m utilizing is a cable driven floor mount shifter.

There is also the option of utilizing a mechanical sub floor shifter. I’ve heard these tend to rattle and are noisy. If ya go this route the 16” model is a good bet.

I went with the 16”, however being that mine is the floor mount unit it actually sits about 3” higher. Making total height at 19” from floor. This poses two problems.

1. The shifter sits high and looks goofy.
2. The shifter actually hits the front console/dash near the cigarette lighter.

Which leaves two options really. Buy the 12” floor mount model - putting it at 15” total height. Maybe about a 1” - 2” shorter that the stock yota stick shifter.

Or

Fab up a bracket that allows the floor mount shifter to actually sit sub floor level. Being that I already bought the 16”, shredded the box for motor mount templating material and generally hate waiting around for shipments this was the route I went.

The brains behind the operation was @FJ60Cam - I just fabbed up a similar bracket. And it works great.

So this is 1/4” stock. Overkill for a shifter? - you bet ya. Nascar approved? Probably.
When ya buy a 2’ x 4’ sheet for the project you’ll be damned if any goes to waste. Didn’t have anything thinner to be honest. 3/16 would’ve been nice.

Dont be alarmed by the water. Got to hydrate in between beers. Plus its 104 degrees here today. Ready for snow & snow wheeling.

You get the Theory. This esentially puts the total height of shifter at 16.75” from floor. Eliminates it hitting front components and puts it realtively close to the stock shifter height. I would be curious to see what a 12” floor mount lokar looks like tho.

Also ordered a set of Camaro downpipes and cats to match up my Camaro exhaust manifolds. Will they fit between a yota frame or hangup? Who knows. Cut, bend, twist and anything will fit. Just depends on your patience level. Mines running out. Haha

 

[NCFJ]

You can order a different shift lever and install it into your current shifter.

 

[Elbert]

or also you could potentially bend the shifter rod you have now to clear whatever, or even make a new one. Good idea on the bracket...

 

[yukon721]

Took a look at ECU mounting options today. I’ve seen them under the seat, in the glove box and a host of other places. Most of the time its mounted to the fender. The harness I have doesn’t really leave for many options as it is built for a fender mount position.

So that was the route I decided upon. Figured if It was gonna sit on the fender it should probably look good. So let the fabrication begin.

Left about a 3/16 gap on top to house a strip of rubber once I cinch it down. Altho its about as tight as can be as it sits every other direction.

 

[yukon721]

Quick pic of it mounted. Still needs a coat of paint.

Should work nicely.

 

[yukon721]

Good News - Now that I’ve purchased all the big item stuff, I was finally able to save up and get some descent beer. Just one. Still can’t afford shoes tho. Priorities. Hahah.

 

[yukon721]

Hooked up the linkage system for the shifter. I suggest Reading the directions. Seems simple enough but ya may miss a few things like these spacers that are used in between oil pan and bracket. Spent some time scratching my head. O well all is connected and seems to shift properly.

Pipes Came in

 

[yukon721]

Do they fit? Yes and no. They clear the frame (by a hair) which is all I care about. However my trans cooler lines are a bit in the way under the passanger side so gonna have to re-route those a bit. Also I planned on cutting off the old crossmemeber mounts once it was operational. Why? The truck has to move to a shop down the street everytime I have to weld something on it or plasma cut something off. So figured wait till it can move on its own. Unfortanetly those old mounts hang up on the pipes. So..... moral of the story knock em off early.

Regardless I’m pretty shocked these things fit with how tight that frame is. So pretty excited about it. You’ll understand just how exciting it is when something fits out of the box once ya attempt this project. Those who have - already know.

Difficult to hold em up and take photos, but they’ll work!!

 

[yukon721]

If your following a long. That option of utilizing a private mega shop on page one finally has electricity. No tools yet. But this is 1 of 3 attached garage bays. Also owned by the guy thats Helping with the fab side of things on this thread. Maybe should’ve waited 6 months to start this. Eggh? The XJ is built and Rubicon tested in case you’re wondering. Still not a FJ tho. Hahahaha. Just a litlle jab to the jeep community.

 

[erse]

If your following a long. That option of utilizing a private mega shop on page one finally has electricity. No tools yet. But this is 1 of 3 attached garage bays. Also owned by the guy thats Helping with the fab side of things on this thread. Maybe should’ve waited 6 months to start this. Eggh? The XJ is built and Rubicon tested in case you’re wondering. Still not a FJ tho. Hahahaha. Just a litlle jab to the jeep community.

View attachment 1751371

Wow that's an enviable space maybe you should have waited indeed.

The jeep is not all useless, those big tires will make great temporary storage platforms for your tools when you're working on your rig.

 

[yukon721]

Could’ve wrenched today. But sometimes ya gotta balance it out. Skydiving sounded more fun than grinding off brackets anyways. Build continues next week.

 

[yukon721]

Anyone know of a definitive guide for wiring up old FJ60 harness to a LS. Obviously have the new harness, but am sure some components from old need to be maintained and utilized for it to run. Trying to find documentation but lacking. Things like alternator, starter, stock tach module etc. Just a one stop shop for everything that needs to be kept off old harness and utilized to have a properly functioning LS FJ60. I have bits and pieces of electrical ideas in my head, but would like a complete picture to wire it right the 1st time. I'm a assuming its a pretty straight forward question and process but like I mentioned this is my first rodeo, so is not as simple to me. I'll be sure to document it all but am having a tough time finding it for my applications at the moment. Figured maybe a quick documented conversation may help others down the line as well.

 

[gregnash]

Think your best bet is going to be one of the build threads like Cams (@FJ60Cam) There are a few other threads I know I have seen that are more in-depth on the wiring side.

 

[yukon721]

Think your best bet is going to be one of the build threads like Cams (@FJ60Cam) There are a few other threads I know I have seen that are more in-depth on the wiring side.

Ole Cam is helping me out a lot. I was just wondering if there was a thread that is detail ridden with pics and instructions. Been trying to find one. If not this will be the one once its finished.