40 series general tech and classifieds

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40 has started running even worse. I was having idle issues. I adjusted the idle mixture from 2.5 turns out to 3.5 out (increasing fuel ratio). I basically kept backing out the screw until the idle stopped increasing and then adjusted it back in a half turn. Since making that adjustment, I didn't have situations where the engine died at idle until 2 days ago, but I think I just masked the underlying problem. I started experiencing a low idle again and I found turning the idle mixture screw another half turn out cleaned up the idle (again, I think I'm just masking the issue as I'm now 4 turns out)

After driving it the other day I can not sit with the clutch in or out with out having my foot on the skinny pedal or the choke out just a hair to keep fuel to it.

So at this point, I'm wondering if I'm having an intermittent vacuum issue. I also wondered if I had a fuel flow/pressure issue, though the fuel stays fixed at the carb site line and I have no issues at driving speeds.


I'm guessing the idle solenoid is toast.......thoughts?
 
DSRTRDR said:
can you hear it click when you turn the key ?
Click to expand...
No but im wondering if the needle is just stuck. Going to pull snd clean/lube it and see.
 
Any of y'all still running the OG giant starter?

I've got a gear reduction starter from my 60. Rebuilt a few years ago. $50.
 
anyone need a practically brand new 3 core aluminum radiator?
 
The one with the hole in it? How much I might take it?
 
No, I ended up keeping that one in my current 40 after repairing the hole.

This one had no holes. Only defect it has is where something bumped up against the cooling fins. Its completely aesthetic, and could easily be repaired with a sewing needle or nail, and a little patience.
 
FJ40 transfer case (don't know specifics, but I'm sure some of y'all can identify it) and a new brake master cyl. (don't know why photo won't post right-side-up) Make offer (Capitol Sports Center is relocating from I-55, and Wayne found these, and the two others - while he was cleaning out.........) Also have an under-dash a/c unit from a 40 and an old 40 driver's seat. Will get photos soon.
FJ40 transfer case.webp
FJ40 master cyl.webp
 
I saw his shop was empty the other day. Where is he moving David?
 
Would you rebuild a 1F stock carb or buy a Trollhole or other? I'm not aware of anyone in the club that runs a Trollhole but I've heard good things. I know Jeff runs a Webber but I am leaning stock rebuild due to all the obvious reasons.

I'm thinking of sending mine off to Jim C. or Mark ......

Mine has multiple issues: back firing through carb (probably fuel mixture and leak), won't run without skinny pedal (probably idle solenoid and possibly float).

Truck runs great once cranked and moving but the crank, warm up and moving into first gear part or idling is a series of skinny pedal, clutch, prayers, cussing, choke, and timing.

I'm not interested in rebuilding myself and am kicking around options. I'd like to drop on a redone/new one and have the timing reset. Rob has just done plugs and wires.
 
The Trollhole carb will be cheaper than having a quality rebuild. If he has them in stock, the downtime will be minimal.

If having a Chinese copy doesn't bother you, that is probably the best route. I haven't heard any bad reviews of them. Does he have 1F carbs? Are they different than a 2F?
 
$290 shipped to my door from Trollhole.

Had not thought about downtime Cameron....both Jim and Mark are probably going to take weeks where as I can limp around and then bolt on a Trollhole overnight.

good input. I may get a trollhole and then send off the aisin to rebuild and then have a spare/one to sell.
 
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