4.5LV build

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Went to the parts store to grab some fuel hose clamps and ATF and forgot my wire model of the lower radiator hose to match up. Somehow they can't find the application in their computer.

Put fuel in it today and finished buttoning up the fuel system. Pump Runs good and finally no leaks.

Hooked up the trans cooler and put 10 quarts of trans fluid in.

Tightened up the power steering fittings and put a quart of ATF in the power steering reservoir.

No start.

Verified the fuel injector pulse is still there. No spark out of the coil. Tested the pick up coil. Power to the coil. Power and ground at the igniter. That's all good.

Felt crappy. Went home. Sweating my nuts off at 7 in the morning sucks. Hopefully, it'll be cooler tomorrow.
 
Started the day working on the carb and brakes on the SWB so didn't going on the LV until late.

Chased down the two wires from the igniter to the PCM. Found the problem and got a nice fat spark.

The distributor was a couple of teeth off. Got that reset.

Found a great match on the lower hose. Carquest RBR 21995 fits from a 1FZ without AC to a stock location FJ4x radiator outlet.

Buttoned up a few minor things too

Still no start though. Sputters, but won't run.
 
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I figured it was something simple and stupid keeping it from running.

The MAF was on backwards. It'd fire and sputter, but not stay running. I seem to remember from somewhere that the PCM will not let it run without a signal that it's getting air from the MAF. I took off the MAF to test it and when I hooked it back up to check voltage at the plug I noticed the little arrow was going the wrong way.

Runs strong now. Now that hurdle is over a ton more work needs to get done.

The amazing upside down 1FZ with open manifolds.

http://s193.photobucket.com/user/GumbyFJ55/media/VID_20130716_102002_138_zpsed253a58.mp4.html
 
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I figured it was something simple and stupid keeping it from running.

The MAF was on backwards. It'd fire and sputter, but not stay running. I seem to remember from somewhere that the PCM will not let it run without a signal that it's getting air from the MAF. I took off the MAF to test it and when I hooked it back up to check voltage at the plug I noticed the little arrow was going the wrong way.

Runs strong now. Now that hurdle is over a ton more work needs to get done.

The amazing upside down 1FZ with open manifolds.

http://s193.photobucket.com/user/GumbyFJ55/media/VID_20130716_102002_138_zpsed253a58.mp4.html

Good work Gumby :clap: I'm sure it feels good to finally have the motor running!!!
 
Built an exhaust that runs straight down from the manifolds, cuts under the belhousing and joins together then cuts down the right side overthe trans crossover, over the axle and sneaking past the sway bar and out in front of the shackle.

Bent it up with my JD2.

Built a pair of radiator struts.

Bolted the torque converter. What a pain in the ass on a A343.

Found a leak in the trans lines and fixed that too.

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Finally got the last door done. Shot it in epoxy.

finished up the last little bit on the trans hump. Shot it in epoxy.

Finished up the last of the body work. Went out to buy some fine line tape. Masked off the top. Hit the spots in epoxy.

Tomorrow is high fill and blocking everything below the white stripe for shooting Graphite Mica on Saturday.

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Frustrating day with paint. Primer catalyst was bad and i couldnt find less than a quart for $85. i need about 4 ounces. i ended up having to buy a quart.

Found some drive shafts. Got it all blocked down.

Try again tomorrow.
 
I used exactly 4oz. Everything is shot in high build that needs to be. Now I have to wait 12 hours to sand it all down and then I can shoot color.

Headed out in a bit to go get a set of 33" BFGs for it. One more thing off the list.
 
Shot some white today. I had to get the door in white before I can line it up and mask it for the grey. The bezel had a light spot, the underside of the hood wasn't finished and the trans hump had been modified and needed reshooting.


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nobody is gonna tell me the rear door handle is upside down?

Your rear door handle is upside down.

My work here is done.
 
Very nice mate!

Every time I see a full side-on pic of an LV with those beautiful ribs I go all funny.:cool:

Great job. Is the end in sight?
 
The end is indeed in sight. I have a goal of taking it to the Hoosier Cruisers Hoedown on 8/10, but I'm sure enough unexpected things will pop up.

I built the drivshafts today. I'm sure these will be temporary ones until I can get them properly retubed and balanced.

For the rear I cut the slip yoke and transfer side flange off of a free bent 80 series shaft. Cut it perfectly square on the lathe and slid a cut down 45 drive shaft onto the flange. It's pretty short. More slip yoke than tube.

On the front I had a free shaft that had broken both U-Joints off, but the tube was straight. I had also bought a pair of used shafts from the boneyard. I cut a section of tube out of the broken one and added it to the good one. I chucked up the chunk of rear shaft that I had cut out and turned it down to a press fit inside the front tube on both joints. It came out pretty straight. I haven't welded it yet.

I was just given a driveshaft spacer designed to add 1.5" for lifts and such. It had two sets of holes. One matched the 80 flange and one matched the early 45 flange. The center hole was perfect for both.

All was good until I looked at the exhaust. The fancy crossover pipe I was so proud of is going to be right in the way. I have no idea how I'm going to fix it.

I also started 3D printing an ABS plastic spacer for the back of the gauge cluster that will allow me to use 80 series speedo, fuel, volts, temp and oil pressure gauges. 15 hour print time, then another 12 in the solution that breaks down the support material used while building the model. crappy pic. No good way to get a good one with the phone.

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