22REvolution. An 85 Pickup West Texas Build.

[Infamous82]

Careful on v6 rear ends. If I'm not mistaken the 4.88 rear has a different gear size than all the others and you can't swap out gears from those to any others and aftermarkets have to be specific to them(if anyone even makes them) and not for the rest of the rear ends. It may be just a specific one and not all the 4.88 though not 100%

 

[Mudder]

The stock Toyota v6 4.88 is not interchangeable with any other rear end is what I've read

 

[Toast]

X2. It is it's very own design. The ring gear is thinner than all others. It's not a bad rear end by any means, just different.

 

[pappy]

The stock Toyota v6 4.88 is not interchangeable with any other rear end is what I've read

Not true. Yes, they are a different design, but I ran 4.88 V6 diffs in my 85 xcab.

 

[Mudder]

I thought you couldn't put any other gear in the 4.88 axle pappy?

 

[BioTex]

I found some time last night to install the tank and also the new filter. Poured a couple gallons of fresh fuel into the tank and turned the key. I never heard the pump come on but got a visual indication when fuel started dripping at one of the banjo bolts where I forgot to put the second crush washer on the bolt. There it was laying on the bench so I installed it and hit the key again. I could hear the fuel purging out air from the return line and see that I have another leak just rear of the intake manifold where there is a rubber line. the rubber is brittle from the years and will need to be replaced. The leak isn't bad enough that I couldn't attempt to start the engine however and so I did try the key in the start position but got nothing. All lights working, all accessories working just no cranking.
I did get the engine to turn over previously, so I figure a loose ground. I cleaned the grounds, even replaced the ground cable with a new one because the battery terminal end was suspect, but no joy. The only ground connection I didn't get to before dark was the one directly to the engine block. It is rather hard to get to.
For some reason the solenoid on the starter is not engaging. Without a wiring diagram I can not tell which wire energizes the solenoid. I do see a single wire below the main battery cable wire but not sure if it's the one so I didn't try to jumper it. I guess a service manual is in my future.

Anybody on here have a wiring diagram I can look at until the manual arrives? Or can you confirm the solenoid wire is the one right next to the main battery wire? I'd rather not take the starter off unless I have to which is looking like I do...

This truck was parked many years ago for some reason. I didn't expect it to just fire up. Starter, fuel pump, brakes??? I'm prepared for all of it. Don't want to start robbing parts off the 86 truck just yet. I'll keep it whole and try to get it running also in the near future.

Edit: Just read the FAQ section on starters and believe I have all my questions answered. I will do some testing to narrow down the cause soon as I can get back to it.

 

[snobdds]

I thought you couldn't put any other gear in the 4.88 axle pappy?

You'r correct. No other gear set in the 4.88 housing can be made to work. He is saying you can take a 4.88 gear and housing and put them into any axle like a rear 85 or 91 etc, which is also correct.

Damn semantics...

 

[snobdds]

I found some time last night to install the tank and also the new filter. Poured a couple gallons of fresh fuel into the tank and turned the key. I never heard the pump come on but got a visual indication when fuel started dripping at one of the banjo bolts where I forgot to put the second crush washer on the bolt. There it was laying on the bench so I installed it and hit the key again. I could hear the fuel purging out air from the return line and see that I have another leak just rear of the intake manifold where there is a rubber line. the rubber is brittle from the years and will need to be replaced. The leak isn't bad enough that I couldn't attempt to start the engine however and so I did try the key in the start position but got nothing. All lights working, all accessories working just no cranking.
I did get the engine to turn over previously, so I figure a loose ground. I cleaned the grounds, even replaced the ground cable with a new one because the battery terminal end was suspect, but no joy. The only ground connection I didn't get to before dark was the one directly to the engine block. It is rather hard to get to.
For some reason the solenoid on the starter is not engaging. Without a wiring diagram I can not tell which wire energizes the solenoid. I do see a single wire below the main battery cable wire but not sure if it's the one so I didn't try to jumper it. I guess a service manual is in my future.

Anybody on here have a wiring diagram I can look at until the manual arrives? Or can you confirm the solenoid wire is the one right next to the main battery wire? I'd rather not take the starter off unless I have to which is looking like I do...

This truck was parked many years ago for some reason. I didn't expect it to just fire up. Starter, fuel pump, brakes??? I'm prepared for all of it. Don't want to start robbing parts off the 86 truck just yet. I'll keep it whole and try to get it running also in the near future.

Edit: Just read the FAQ section on starters and believe I have all my questions answered. I will do some testing to narrow down the cause soon as I can get back to it.

More often than not it's the starter contacts that energize the starter solenoid. The plunger inside sometimes gets bound up, but I usually just re polish it back up with some emery cloth and steel wool. Don't throw out the OEM starter or give it in as a core. They hardly ever go bad. I have rebuilt mine twice now with just new contacts.

 

[BioTex]

More often than not it's the starter contacts that energize the starter solenoid. The plunger inside sometimes gets bound up, but I usually just re polish it back up with some emery cloth and steel wool. Don't throw out the OEM starter or give it in as a core. They hardly ever go bad. I have rebuilt mine twice now with just new contacts.

After reading the FAQ section on starters, I had a go at troubleshooting the starter. What I found was I had battery voltage at the big terminal as expected and when I jumpered it to the solenoid wire, I got the solenoid to click (engage), but the starter did not turn over. The spark looked pretty big when I jumped it, so I believe the amps were higher than they would normaly be. Looks like I will be removing the starter for rebuild. The engine rotates freely by hand but I could never get the starter motor to turn. I think it is as you stated above. I tried with the key in run and in start but nothing.

 

[BioTex]

Tonight I removed the starter. Not a hard job at all. I took the cover off the solenoid and removed the contacts which I cleaned up real nice. I reinstalled the starter and it cranks fine now. The engine starts right up and runs only for a second or two. It is not getting fuel although the pump is working. It is possible the regulator is gummed up just like everything else that was sitting for so long. I have a copy of the manual now so I am about to start the trouble shooting now. I'm not sure where to begin, maybe the MAF? I'm open to suggestions of course, but I feel I need a pressure gauge on the fuel system. I own one but it is for American cars. Not sure it has a metric adapter. It works on a Schrader valve.

 

[KLF]

Put a paper clip across terminals Fp & B+ in the diagnostic connector, see if it stays running. If it does, then it's something with the air flow meter circuit.

 

[BioTex]

Put a paper clip across terminals Fp & B+ in the diagnostic connector, see if it stays running. If it does, then it's something with the air flow meter circuit.

I don't have to use a paper clip because I made up a jumper with proper spade connectors on it just for this.

Just so I understand the thought process... I try to start the engine with the fuel pump jumpered. This tells me if it is the air flow meter because if the AFM is bad, it shuts off power to the pump via the ECU?

If it doesn't stay running then I suppose I need to verify fuel pressure. I don't have a banjo style fuel pressure gauge connector but am thinking I might be able to pinch off the return line and this should build up more pressure and perhaps "unstick" any parts that may be gummed up from years of sitting. Like the injectors or the pressure regulator. Is this reasonable?

 

[muddpigg]

Cool score!!! This will be an awesome build project.
Here's some sites for good info:
4crawler.com Roger Brown really goes into deal on many topics

Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Powered by vBulletin Has loads of ideas

Gearinstall.com Zuk really walks through setting up gears.

Think re-Enforcing SFA frame is better than SASing a IFS as it has you can run a lower lift due to frame clearance.

 

[BioTex]

Cool score!!! This will be an awesome build project.
Here's some sites for good info:
4crawler.com Roger Brown really goes into deal on many topics

Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Powered by vBulletin Has loads of ideas

Gearinstall.com Zuk really walks through setting up gears.

Think re-Enforcing SFA frame is better than SASing a IFS as it has you can run a lower lift due to frame clearance.

Only had to give $500 for both rigs, so yes it was a good score. Thanks for the tips. I am a member already at Pirate. I go by TX800B there since I am heavy into IH's. They are unique but very heavy for crawling so switching to the Toy.

I already have the 85 truck title in my name. Just need to get it inspected to be street legal. All the electrical appears to be working so just need tail lights to replace the busted ones. I'll most likely leave the bed off and go with a tube bed of some sort.

On with the update. I jumped out the fuel pump at the service connector and definitely can hear the fuel returning to the tank and all so I know the motor is making pressure. Don't know how much yet. With the pump jumpered, the engine still only runs for a second or two. It fires up nicely then dies. Wondering what would cause this. Is it starting up only on the cold start mechanism? Possibly the injectors not firing due to a sensor? Something like a crank sensor? I'm still researching things but would love to hear from others.

Update: I checked spark and have good spark even while cranking after the engine dies. This confirms it is a fuel related no start.

 

[muddpigg]

I agree sounds like it's firing on cold start. Check the ground that mounts to underside support of intake plenums.

You won't hear fuel pump running like other injected vehicles. There is a sensor in MAF that is activated by the opening for air to pass. So no air coming in equals no fuel pumping. Some hot tips on web for checking function and bypassing if needed.

Low range off-road is good for lenses and such. Plus lots of other stuff.

 

[BioTex]

Going to perform some troubleshooting checks on the ECU per the FSM today. It's looking more and more like the ECU is bad. Anyone have a spare 89661-35020 module?

 

[muddpigg]

http://www.precision4wheeldrive.com/1985FSM.pdf

 

[pappy]

Going to perform some troubleshooting checks on the ECU per the FSM today. It's looking more and more like the ECU is bad. Anyone have a spare 89661-35020 module?

Be aware that other years will work. I have a 35020 if you really want.

 

[KLF]

There are 2 conditions under normal operations when the fuel pump runs: when cranking the engine, and when the ignition is on and the MAF says there is air flowing through the air box.

You won't hear fuel pump running like other injected vehicles.

When the diagnostic jumper is in place, you should definitely hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on. Stand back by the tank, you'll hear it. Or, you can also hear fuel hissing through the fuel rail past the regulator.

 

[pappy]

When the diagnostic jumper is in place, you should definitely hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on. Stand back by the tank, you'll hear it. Or, you can also hear fuel hissing through the fuel rail past the regulator.

You can hear the pump with diagnostic plug shorted, and the engine is off. You should be able to hear both the pump running, and the return fuel splashing in the tank.