Builds 2007 LX470 Super Cruiser build with Elate Mfg Supercharger (2 Viewers)

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If it is only the inner tie rod on the one side that has play you can replace just that. Both inner and outer tie rods are available. A new rack comes with new inners, but not needed unless it is leaking or there is other damage.
 
If it is only the inner tie rod on the one side that has play you can replace just that. Both inner and outer tie rods are available. A new rack comes with new inners, but not needed unless it is leaking or there is other damage.
For some reason I thought the inners were not replaceable. Thanks for your help!
 
Finally was time to get some new wheels. Turned out to be a saga. I have had the same set of XD Addict wheels since I bought the truck, I found them on CL near where I bought the truck in CA and picked them up same day after flying in. I put a couple sets of tires on them since then The tires were ok but leaked air but my wheels were just thrashed and faded. I decided to go back to 285/65/18 (32.5x11.5) from 275/70/18 (33x10.5). I just found that the skinnier tires were not as grippy on the terrain that I normally drive on. Also I have a hunch that when aired down, the "taller" 275 actually drops down lower than the 285 when they are lowered to 15 psi or so. I am going to test that theory. Also the taller tires make the truck sluggish on the highway, no problem now with the SC, but I noticed it when I switched. The only thing the taller tires really are better at is looking taller in the parking lot at full street pressure, otherwise wider is better. Other than that I love the Ridge Grapplers, they are such a great tire and tough as nails. I really can't believe how much abuse they take. And they are also quiet and smooth on the highway. I won't buy any other tire unless maybe they come out with a RG 2.

Hard to find wheels for the 100...that I like. I didn't want a black wheel again and not polished either and not bronze so that really narrows it down to like 5 wheels. I originally bought a set of Method 316s but they didn't fit. The website shows them fitting but they interfered with the drive flange bolts and wouldn't seat on the hub. They were so cool looking and in Titanium color they looked stunning. I returned them and bought a set of Method 305 NVs which were my 2nd choice. The Titanium color on these wheels isn't as rich, it looks more metallic, but still looks awesome. They are a super faux-beadlock style, I didn't realize how super fake they were on the website lol. Also the center caps don't fit on the front so I have to order special ones that are backordered of course.

Method 305 NV: Amazon.com: Method Race Wheels MR305 NV Titanium-Matte Black Lip Wheel with Aluminum (18 x 9. inches /5 x 150 mm, 25 mm Offset) : Automotive - https://amzn.to/3SjKJbZ
Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/65/18 (best size IMO): https://amzn.to/3R11PdI

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Nitto Ridge Grappler 275/70/18 (my previous size): https://amzn.to/3UsQGoQ

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These wheels are such a great fit for this color combo
 
Investigated a fuel smell that I've had since Cruise Moab. I found a few cracks where it looks like the metal pinched together at the top of the tank near the pickup assembly. No bueno. I cleaned it up and smeared a few layers of JB Weld on it. Looking at replacement options. I did Gold Bar Rim and got stuck on the waterfall on the way down (listening to multiple spotters instead of the one spotter I should have). I must have come down on the tank. I was able to drive up the waterfall at least!

I would love an LRA tank but that's probably not going to happen anytime soon. It would be awesome if I could find a 30+ gallon tank from a Chevy or something that would fit. I'll have to go spend some time at the junkyard. The 25 gallons of the stock tank just leaves me wanting on road trips. If I just get a replacement 100 tank I will investigate if there are any baffles or blocks inside that could be removed. My old racing coach/mechanic could remove internal baffles inside a Mazda Miata tank and gain almost 2 more gallons for endurance racing, maybe something like that is possible on a LC tank also.

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Investigated a fuel smell that I've had since Cruise Moab. I found a few cracks where it looks like the metal pinched together at the top of the tank near the pickup assembly. No bueno. I cleaned it up and smeared a few layers of JB Weld on it. Looking at replacement options. I did Gold Bar Rim and got stuck on the waterfall on the way down (listening to multiple spotters instead of the one spotter I should have). I must have come down on the tank. I was able to drive up the waterfall at least!

I would love an LRA tank but that's probably not going to happen anytime soon. It would be awesome if I could find a 30+ gallon tank from a Chevy or something that would fit. I'll have to go spend some time at the junkyard. The 25 gallons of the stock tank just leaves me wanting on road trips. If I just get a replacement 100 tank I will investigate if there are any baffles or blocks inside that could be removed. My old racing coach/mechanic could remove internal baffles inside a Mazda Miata tank and gain almost 2 more gallons for endurance racing, maybe something like that is possible on a LC tank also.

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I replaced my fuel tank a few weeks ago and I can confirm there are a number of baffles inside the tank.
 
I replaced my fuel tank a few weeks ago and I can confirm there are a number of baffles inside the tank.
How big a PITA was that? I've been putting mine off for a while.


@J1000 , does the truck run any stronger with cooler weather coming in? My little turbo car feels like a whole new one come fall weather, wonder if yours may be similar.
 
Gas tank wasn't so bad, I just made sure to run it as low as possible before dropping it. The last fill up was about 2 MPG better than previously and it doesn't smell like gas anymore!

The truck has been running awesome in the cold. It picked up some boost and now shows 5.5 PSI on the gauge at WOT. I am having one issue with the engine when it is in the 40s or below. There is a huge hesitation or bogging down if you tip into the throttle too fast. I think it has to do with the extremely long runner length between the fuel injectors and the valves. I think fuel is creating droplets on the walls when it is really cold. When the truck warms up it's not as bad. When I run on E85 it's less noticeable than on gas.
 
How big a PITA was that? I've been putting mine off for a while.


@J1000 , does the truck run any stronger with cooler weather coming in? My little turbo car feels like a whole new one come fall weather, wonder if yours may be similar.
It was not fun, hardest part was hooking fill tube to tank, needed skinnier arms.
 
Nice information that is very helpful in this thread. I have a 2004 GX470 made in Japan that I bought new. I was going to sell it cheap until I really looked at how well it was made compared to so many new SUVs. No rust on mine and in great shape. After seeing Logan King's GX470 on youtube I pretty much copied everything he did same lift and 35 inch tires. Then I ran across Jimmy's Elate supercharger and started down that path LOL! I am working on several engines for the GX470. I was sold on the Elate SC because of the intercooler (I have build several B&M blower motors in the past) but I came across a nice TRD supercharger, Unichip ECU and high output injectors for 1/3rd the cost of the Elate. I will see if I can retrofit an intercooler with it.

I have the DT heaters and crossover with Magnaflow exhaust. I found some reasonable forged pistons from a LF4 engine that runs 10.2 compression ration with 18 lbs off boast then mated these to H beam connecting rods. This should make 11.5 compression with the 2UZ-FE which is a little high to supercharge. I plan to run E30 fuel which should be 95 to 96 octane. Mine is the non VVTI engine which is fine but I want to use the VVTI block because of the oil squinters to remove more heat from the bottom of the pistons to help detonation. Does anyone know if you can use the VVTI block with the non VVTI heads? They use different oil pumps. I also have the MAP-ECU3 piggy back like Jimmy used.

I wanted a low rpm torque engine with better MPG and was planning to get that with the normally aspirated higher compression better combustion chamber design highly tuned engine but I couldn't pass the TRD supercharger up. Looks like I will have 2 engines now.
 
Nice information that is very helpful in this thread. I have a 2004 GX470 made in Japan that I bought new. I was going to sell it cheap until I really looked at how well it was made compared to so many new SUVs. No rust on mine and in great shape. After seeing Logan King's GX470 on youtube I pretty much copied everything he did same lift and 35 inch tires. Then I ran across Jimmy's Elate supercharger and started down that path LOL! I am working on several engines for the GX470. I was sold on the Elate SC because of the intercooler (I have build several B&M blower motors in the past) but I came across a nice TRD supercharger, Unichip ECU and high output injectors for 1/3rd the cost of the Elate. I will see if I can retrofit an intercooler with it.

I have the DT heaters and crossover with Magnaflow exhaust. I found some reasonable forged pistons from a LF4 engine that runs 10.2 compression ration with 18 lbs off boast then mated these to H beam connecting rods. This should make 11.5 compression with the 2UZ-FE which is a little high to supercharge. I plan to run E30 fuel which should be 95 to 96 octane. Mine is the non VVTI engine which is fine but I want to use the VVTI block because of the oil squinters to remove more heat from the bottom of the pistons to help detonation. Does anyone know if you can use the VVTI block with the non VVTI heads? They use different oil pumps. I also have the MAP-ECU3 piggy back like Jimmy used.

I wanted a low rpm torque engine with better MPG and was planning to get that with the normally aspirated higher compression better combustion chamber design highly tuned engine but I couldn't pass the TRD supercharger up. Looks like I will have 2 engines now.
No real option to add intercooler to TRD SC. I use methanol injection to keep iat temps down. Elate is working on cooler plate for the TRD. A few of us are waiting patiently for it. Hopefully it's done in 2023. I would be interested in your build and direction you go with SC. Make a full thread if possible so we can follow along.
 
Nice information that is very helpful in this thread. I have a 2004 GX470 made in Japan that I bought new. I was going to sell it cheap until I really looked at how well it was made compared to so many new SUVs. No rust on mine and in great shape. After seeing Logan King's GX470 on youtube I pretty much copied everything he did same lift and 35 inch tires. Then I ran across Jimmy's Elate supercharger and started down that path LOL! I am working on several engines for the GX470. I was sold on the Elate SC because of the intercooler (I have build several B&M blower motors in the past) but I came across a nice TRD supercharger, Unichip ECU and high output injectors for 1/3rd the cost of the Elate. I will see if I can retrofit an intercooler with it.

I have the DT heaters and crossover with Magnaflow exhaust. I found some reasonable forged pistons from a LF4 engine that runs 10.2 compression ration with 18 lbs off boast then mated these to H beam connecting rods. This should make 11.5 compression with the 2UZ-FE which is a little high to supercharge. I plan to run E30 fuel which should be 95 to 96 octane. Mine is the non VVTI engine which is fine but I want to use the VVTI block because of the oil squinters to remove more heat from the bottom of the pistons to help detonation. Does anyone know if you can use the VVTI block with the non VVTI heads? They use different oil pumps. I also have the MAP-ECU3 piggy back like Jimmy used.

I wanted a low rpm torque engine with better MPG and was planning to get that with the normally aspirated higher compression better combustion chamber design highly tuned engine but I couldn't pass the TRD supercharger up. Looks like I will have 2 engines now.
Would be awesome to see your build once you get it going. Sounds epic! Check out the Bullet Supercharger also, it has the samer blower mechanics as the Elate but in a different case, also intercooled: Supercharger 4.7L V8 2UZ-FE (1998-2007) – Bullet Cars and 4WD – Australia’s Leading Supercharger Specialist - https://bulletcars.com/product/supercharger-4-7l-v8-2uz-fe/

Some companies out of Aus make cams but they are not cheap.
 
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Picture of the forged pistons with steel supported lands . I get the TRD supercharger setup tomorrow. Talked to a machinist race car engine designer this AM he said you can run 6 to 7 lbs of boast with no problems on 11.5 compression since I am building such a strong bottom end which should give me great torque at low rpm. A friend had me come by his mechanic shop, thought he found me a 4.7 block. When I looked at it it was a 5.7 out of a well maintained 100,000 mile Tundra. He said it dropped an intake valve but the block should be good. I just laughed an said let me take the head off and we will see.

Took the valve cover off and it looked brand new he always changed oil with Mobil 1. I found an intake valve spring in 3 pieces. Once the head came off it was total piston and valve nuggets....never seen an engine this trashed with 3 valve heads like coins on top of what was left of the piston. The cylinder wall was mauled, rod was down in the pan but still attached and turning on the crank. This engine was never abused or altered in anyway.

I do my own machine work and want to see how the TRD was cast and what room it has inside for some type of cooling device or adding a plate between the blower an casting if there is clearance. I looked at both Aussie blowers and they look about the same to me. They are all pretty quiet compared to the 2 lobe straight root impellers I used with the B&M blowers. Those had a lot of rattle to them.

As far as cams go stock maybe better for torque. I don't want high lift and overlap to the exhaust since this engine will not see more than 5500 rpm. If you use forced induction you want wider lobe centers 116 degrees with no exhaust valve scavenging overlap or you blow good fuel and air right out the exhaust unburned from what I know anyway.

I had a 2022 Kia Telluride (illegal border crosser totaled it running a stop sign) it was great on fuel and power for what it was. They used the Atkinson engine cycle in it. You can read how it works thru VVTI. It ran 13 to 1 compression. 0 to 60 AWD was 6.6 seconds and driving easy hwy I got 33 MPG. The cycle allows pressure bleed off by leaving the intake valve open longer at times in the engine cycle. Other car makers are using variable crank shafts. Wish I could adapt that into the 2UZ-FE.
 
I had a 2022 Kia Telluride (illegal border crosser totaled it running a stop sign) it was great on fuel and power for what it was. They used the Atkinson engine cycle in it. You can read how it works thru VVTI. It ran 13 to 1 compression. 0 to 60 AWD was 6.6 seconds and driving easy hwy I got 33 MPG. The cycle allows pressure bleed off by leaving the intake valve open longer at times in the engine cycle. Other car makers are using variable crank shafts. Wish I could adapt that into the 2UZ-FE.
Willing to bet anything it wasn't as buttery smooth as a 2uz , however! As a sequoia owner, another story about the valve spring issue does not help me sleep at night. Good luck on your build!
 
This will retrofit under the hat of the TRD supercharger to add intercooling. The design or the TRD supercharger is interesting as it provides cooling from the incoming charge. To add this intercooling will require some drilling and tapping along with the secound cooler with circulating pump in front of the radiator.

Amazon product ASIN B079RSN1GC
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I will port match and polish the long intake runners that TRD retained in their design. I will blend all surfaces for smooth transition of air flow. I am reading up on the supercharger Bypass Valve and how to utilize this for best economy and throttle response.

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