Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

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Hi VV
Let me think
Wife's and spray booths.
Open air spraying.
Yes I can see it from Mrs VV point of view . The clean white sheets hanging on the washing line now have spots of Eitch primer.
Not good.
For me I was lucky having the workshop . I left my painting till the end of the day and with workers now out of the way I was set to prime and undercoat only.
Top coating / colour coating is designated to a spray booth.
In my case I left this job up to a qualified painter .
More good luck and hi to Mrs VV
Cheers




...via IH8MUD app
 
If I did put up a temporary booth, she might let me leave it up for a month or two, but I fear that wouldn't be long enough to do the entire job (knowing my penchant for obsessing on the details - hence 68 pages of this thread).

I am going to talk to her about it and see where I get. The experience of doing all of this will be worth it. Then, when I screw it up, I can still take it to a painter... and have him start all over :doh:
 
Hi VV
I can not see how you can screw it up.
The biggest thing at the start is to get the Eitch primer on to a clean surface as this acts as a base for all that goes on top.
Stuff it up here and your paint will fall off.
Depending on the extent of your panel work and the amount of time you can put into your 40 will be the base of how long you need your temp spray booth.
Once you finish a panel and have applied the grease and wax remover it's time to Eitch prime. No touching no breathing no nothing to the panels just get that Eitch primer on to that bare metal.
Some panels I needed to prime more than once as I carried out further repairs.
But again once the panel is back to bare metal, Prime.
So how long will the VV house hold need this new dwelling?
I was fortunate and able to put an average of 4 days a week into the panel work . My panels were in good condition.
From the first bit I painted till the last bit painted about 6 months.
A bunch of flowers and a Honey think of the fun we will have in the 40 series might be in order.
This one is a good good good luck
Cheers Peter



...via IH8MUD app
 
Peter,
I like how you think. Thanks for the advice.

I'm beginning to think I can start with some of the easy panels - hood maybe. Try my hand at that and see how it goes.

I've heard about this 2K primer from Eastwood. I might try a few cans. Hmmm, no, after reading the reviews, I'm more skeptical.

I haven't talked to my wife yet about a temporary booth. I got her upset with me about something else, so now isn't a good time. She needs a day to cool off.
 
That's the boy VV
Give it a go.
Or as they would say here in Australia
" Have A Go Bloke"
Buy what ever primer you want BUT make sure it's compatible with the end / final colour coat.
In my case I used all the same company / brand Eitch, undercoat/ filler and colour.
That way you know you have a fighting chance of getting it right.
When using all the same brand of paint your final spray painter man then can not say;
" you should have or I would have used? No that's not right." And other numerous excuses when things go pear shaped.

Have you asked the painter man ($10,000.00 quote ) what he would use?
Good starting point.

For me I had the paint shop and painter telling me what to use. This came in handy when I asked for grit advice when sanding their product. It's seems to be a real case of this goes with that , But don't use this or that , if you get what I am saying.
The paint I used comes with a five year warranty against falling off and fading if applied as to the manufacturer instructions.
Just another reason to keep it all the same.
If I was closer I would love to give you a hand. But sadly I will have to watch from afar instead.
No need for a good luck now as I know you will give it your best shot.

Cheers Peter





...via IH8MUD app
 
My local paint supply shop recommended Advantage 325 2K primer. It goes direct to metal, can be mixed as a build or sealing primer. Saves a step and some cost. If you are blasting parts, they are already etched.
 
Yep, if it gets blasted, it will get an epoxy primer, or a powder coat primer. I've read/heard (YouTube maybe?) that if you use an etching primer, you cannot put Bondo on it directly - it won't adhere, so it would all have to be removed.

When does one need to use a high build primer? I haven't learned about the finer points of putting down primer, "Bondo", high build primer, base coat, clear coat, and all the steps in between.
 
High build primer is like a thin layer of bondo. You can sand it to level a panel.

Etching primer doesn't have to be removed, but you have to scuff and seal (with a thin layer of epoxy primer) etch primer before you can add filler or top coat.

The advantage stuff can be mixed in different ratios and works as a "do it all" primer importantly, it is compatible with my desired finish, single stage PPG Deltron single stage paint.
 
Heirloom said:
High build primer is like a thin layer of bondo. You can sand it to level a panel.

Etching primer doesn't have to be removed, but you have to scuff and seal (with a thin layer of epoxy primer) etch primer before you can add filler or top coat.

The advantage stuff can be mixed in different ratios and works as a "do it all" primer importantly, it is compatible with my desired finish, single stage PPG Deltron single stage paint.
Click to expand...

What is the benefit of using the self etching over epoxy on blasted metal?
 
Heirloom said:
High build primer is like a thin layer of bondo. You can sand it to level a panel.

Etching primer doesn't have to be removed, but you have to scuff and seal (with a thin layer of epoxy primer) etch primer before you can add filler or top coat.

The advantage stuff can be mixed in different ratios and works as a "do it all" primer importantly, it is compatible with my desired finish, single stage PPG Deltron single stage paint.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking about using a single stage color (Spring Green) - that's a 1960's color. Would that color be in the same line of paint as your Deltron PPG - I see your truck is a '66?
 
Custom Differential Mount: Wanted to pimp Andrew at Mayhem Metal Works - he made me a custom diff holder so I can rebuild my rear diff. I found him whilst searching for a pre-built tool so I didn't have to start from scratch. He was willing to make for for my fj40, even went out of his way to get the measurements from someone with a LC. Charged me very fairly. I also bought an inexpensive spanner tool to help with the tweaks.

He currently makes these for Toyota trucks, but not for the LC before I asked him.

These tools will need to welded by me, but hey, that just adds to the fun.

Thought I'd let others know about him. He is located here if anyone is interested:
http://www.mayhemmetalworks.com/index.php/products/tools/toyota-8-differential-setup-mount
http://www.mayhemmetalworks.com/index.php/products/tools/differential-spanner-wrench
 
Vae Victus said:
I'm thinking about using a single stage color (Spring Green) - that's a 1960's color. Would that color be in the same line of paint as your Deltron PPG - I see your truck is a '66?
Click to expand...
Exactly. I'm planning on using spring green as well. On another note, if you let your wife choose the color, your budget might go up. It worked for me.
 
Man, I wish I had that spanner! I bored two holes in a piece of flat bar stock. Got the job done but was VERY uncomfortable to use. Looks like you will be all set to start doing differential rebuilds on the side once Smokey is back on the road!
 
Vae Victus said:
It's been over a year. What's new with you - have a project yet?

War Eagle.
Click to expand...

I have my 40 packed in a storage unit in Destin for a few more weeks. I'm closing on a home with a small two car garage but it means I'll have some space for my toyotas I have a fj cruiser to but the awd mileage and poor road manors keep it parked with all the driving I do. Work keeps me so busy I'm lucky if I get to start it once every two weeks.

I'm in the same boat as you with paint decisions but some of the body on mine is not ready for a nice paint job for a year or so. So for now I'm doing a temporary spray can etch primer and a spray paint job to get by until I can commit to going as far as you and doing it the right way.

I didn't watch this years iron bowl either. I stress out to much and know I shouldn't have a reason to, to much bama in me (like the 54 cotton bowl play). I did go to watch my team play bad against Ohio st, had fun on bourbon street, I'm not a sore loser as long as auburns not beating us. I think the sec is in trouble now as the rest of the country has caught up on competing on the sec level and the sec has gotten away from the defenses that won some of the championships.

Hope your project goes well. I can't remember if I read or not but a member or two on here from Huntsville have also done some nice restoration builds the last year or two. They might have a painter that's not to far from you in tenn.
The tips on here about getting a tech school to do it sound like something worth looking into as well. I think when the time comes I'll try a temp paint booth in the back yard on the fenders and hood first and see if I like results.
 
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I has steelz!

Ready to repair the body.

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I found a couple of hours to cut out the fuel tank floor pan and fit up the new pan.

I accidentally cut into the support strut underneath. I'll have to patch that. Grrr.

I should have cut it out much smaller than I did. That was dumb. There's lots of clean metal around the edges to use. No need to get so close to the side or rear panels.

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I decided to go ahead and order new steel for the drivers floor pan and the two rear quarter panels. Left quarter isn't too bad but right is extremely poor in many spots. Might as well get the best starting point as possible.

Ordered from CCOT. Much cheaper than SOR. Like 40%. We shall see if quality is there.

On a personal note:
Dropped my dear daughter off at Furman for her freshman year a few days ago. Wow, that was hard for dad!
 
1973Guppie said:
should be easy enough to connect the existing support with some flat bar or even some square steel to support?......
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Agree. I didn't cut all the way thru so can just weld and grind it back solid. You can see the cut in the last photo above.
 
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