@Vae Victus - Glad to see you back at it! My project has stalled, HARD, but I'll have a few tweaks coming up. At least one of us is progressing!
Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together
- Thread starter Vae Victus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I wouldn't use a flap disk it is taking off metal in small amounts. Try using a polycarbide abrasive wheel on an angle grinder. You will never use anything else!
- Thread starter
- #1,303
I wonder if you starting taking on too many changes.... From memory, you were talking about a lot of big projects.
How is the new house? Ironic that you have a garage, and now your project has stalled.
VV
- Thread starter
- #1,304
Ugh. Just talked to my relative who is heavy into customizing motorcycle paint jobs and he broke the bad news. If I don't have access to a paint booth, then stop trying to do the paint myself.
He said, and the guy at the PPG place agreed (to a great extent, see below) that I should get it blasted/paint removed and primer applied right away, and then do the metal repair work.
I had hoped to do the paint work myself, but clearly without a structure to do it in (which isn't going to materialize after all), I'm better off not trying to paint it in the garage.
The very kind guy at the PPG place said that I *could* build a temp paint booth in the garage with 2x4s and plastic sheeting, but that the primer smelled particularly horrible and was not a great idea since the main entrance we use is through the garage - even with ventilation, it would still smell to high heaven in the house.
Sigh. If I'm going to get this done, then I need to bite the bullet and let someone else do the paint work I guess.
Better add some $000s to the cost spreadsheet. Oh well, my birthday is just around the corner - that can be my gift to myself.
VV
He said, and the guy at the PPG place agreed (to a great extent, see below) that I should get it blasted/paint removed and primer applied right away, and then do the metal repair work.
I had hoped to do the paint work myself, but clearly without a structure to do it in (which isn't going to materialize after all), I'm better off not trying to paint it in the garage.
The very kind guy at the PPG place said that I *could* build a temp paint booth in the garage with 2x4s and plastic sheeting, but that the primer smelled particularly horrible and was not a great idea since the main entrance we use is through the garage - even with ventilation, it would still smell to high heaven in the house.
Sigh. If I'm going to get this done, then I need to bite the bullet and let someone else do the paint work I guess.
Better add some $000s to the cost spreadsheet. Oh well, my birthday is just around the corner - that can be my gift to myself.
VV
Yeah, too many changes all at once - new job started in September, moved into the new place in April, wedding coming up in August. The new house is great! Lots of work, but making progress. Staining the deck, dealing with some grading/drainage issues, and most importantly - getting ready to set up the garage with a sub-panel and wire for 220V. It is ironic - now I have time, and a garage, just no money! It has forced me to actually spend some time DRIVING the truck this summer though, which has been a nice change of pace.
I'm slowly but surely collecting parts, tackling a bunch of "little things" like fuel lines, obvious leaks, and such while I collect money to fund the final major mechanical overhaul of this project. My "Cruiser Budget" spreadsheet shows April as about the earliest I'm going to have a critical mass of parts and funds to be able to pull the engine for a pull down/reseal/refresh/reinstall.
Of course, in the process this will mean - new, correctly located engine mounts, exhaust, seals, clutch, driveshafts, etc. So it's really way more than just an engine relocation.
I'll be ordering a replacement carb this fall. After that, it'll be about $600 in engine parts/seals. On top of that will be tooling (engine crane/stand, etc.). I'll also need to farm out a lot of welding - engine mounts, exhaust, driveshaft adjustment, when all is said and done. All of which means shelling out for labor.
If all goes according to plan, the driveline will come out in April 2015, and I'll be back on the road in October. Snail's pace is an understatement. once complete though, the truck will be, basically, front-to-back mechanically sound.
Hi VV
I did not have a spray booth.
My painter was happy with me doing all the prep work then I hired a booth for two days to had colour and top coats.
Again very happy with the results.
I'm very fussy .
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
I did not have a spray booth.
My painter was happy with me doing all the prep work then I hired a booth for two days to had colour and top coats.
Again very happy with the results.
I'm very fussy .
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
I think you can get a decent paint job in a garage or in the driveway - at least a "decent from 10ft" paint job, or better.
I had a friend paint is 72 chevy pickup in his driveway and I was really surprised at how well it turned out.
If you're looking for a showroom or barret Jackson quality job, then a booth is the way to go. I'm probably going to paint mine in the garage - I don't want to be too broken up about that first rock chip or dent!
I had a friend paint is 72 chevy pickup in his driveway and I was really surprised at how well it turned out.
If you're looking for a showroom or barret Jackson quality job, then a booth is the way to go. I'm probably going to paint mine in the garage - I don't want to be too broken up about that first rock chip or dent!
You can lay down a fine paint job without a paint booth, just know that you'll have to sand as applicable on single stage or base/clear to get trash out of the paint. Plus it's all in the prep work.
One thing you can't change is stinking up the house. Personally, id just do all the prep at your place, rent a booth, and shoot it there.
One thing you can't change is stinking up the house. Personally, id just do all the prep at your place, rent a booth, and shoot it there.
V.V. - as humid as it is right nowin our neck of the woods, that thing is going to flash rust in a minute!
I read Epoxy Primer is best, but all the old timers use the Self-Etching primer. Eastwood sells Epoxy Primer in a rattle can. Might be good for small area like that.
I read Epoxy Primer is best, but all the old timers use the Self-Etching primer. Eastwood sells Epoxy Primer in a rattle can. Might be good for small area like that.
I asked about spring green when I was at the paint store getting paint for another project. They said that color code was only available single stage, which leads me to believe that other early land cruiser color codes are probably only available single stage.
I have only painted in a home garage and have never produced a show car finish, by my standards. I've been happy with the results I've had,though. The more hours you spend sanding, the better it looks, no matter where you paint. Having a detached garage has helped with the smell at my most recent home.
I have only painted in a home garage and have never produced a show car finish, by my standards. I've been happy with the results I've had,though. The more hours you spend sanding, the better it looks, no matter where you paint. Having a detached garage has helped with the smell at my most recent home.
- Thread starter
- #1,311
Yes, single stage is what I'm assuming.
I got a quote this morning for $650 to blast the entire body at StripMaster here in town. Recommendation from a friend in the business of custom motorcycles. Pretty good price if you ask me.
Balance that with a high end paint quote for $10,000 minimum by a shop here in town called Team Witt. I'm sure they do a great job, but that's out of the price range for what I'm willing to pay someone for a paint job - especially on a truck, and especially when I've done just about everything myself on this so far. $3000 maybe, but $10K? Whew!
I got a quote this morning for $650 to blast the entire body at StripMaster here in town. Recommendation from a friend in the business of custom motorcycles. Pretty good price if you ask me.
Balance that with a high end paint quote for $10,000 minimum by a shop here in town called Team Witt. I'm sure they do a great job, but that's out of the price range for what I'm willing to pay someone for a paint job - especially on a truck, and especially when I've done just about everything myself on this so far. $3000 maybe, but $10K? Whew!
I'm hauling my frame down to be blasted this week - $200-$300 to strip it. I've thought long about blasting the body, but I hate redoing bodywork that isn't failed... that said, I may have the interior and underbody blasted to give a good key for the coatings.
10k for paint? dang, even if the shop is charging 100/hr, that is 100 hours to prep and paint (where most shops are in the 60-70 range - so 150 hours of work).... are you stripping the rig yourself or having it done?
10k for paint? dang, even if the shop is charging 100/hr, that is 100 hours to prep and paint (where most shops are in the 60-70 range - so 150 hours of work).... are you stripping the rig yourself or having it done?
I'm hauling my frame down to be blasted this week - $200-$300 to strip it. I've thought long about blasting the body, but I hate redoing bodywork that isn't failed... that said, I may have the interior and underbody blasted to give a good key for the coatings.
10k for paint? dang, even if the shop is charging 100/hr, that is 100 hours to prep and paint (where most shops are in the 60-70 range - so 150 hours of work).... are you stripping the rig yourself or having it done?
10k for paint? dang, even if the shop is charging 100/hr, that is 100 hours to prep and paint (where most shops are in the 60-70 range - so 150 hours of work).... are you stripping the rig yourself or having it done?
I paid $220 for the tub to be blasted. The blast shop charged by clock time in the booth at $75-90/hr, best I recall. Came back totally clean, with only little remnants inside the dash that he couldn't reach.
I also got a quote for a gallon of PPG Deltron single stage today at English Color. $550 for the top coat system. Another $150 for the primer system.
Let that factor into your budget.
I also got a quote for a gallon of PPG Deltron single stage today at English Color. $550 for the top coat system. Another $150 for the primer system.
Let that factor into your budget.
Keep in mind the amount of paint needed for a 40 - it's not just the outside but also the inside and every nook and cranny , it takes a lot of paint . The main issue is the cost of all the chemicals - even for single stage if you're using epoxy primer which is really what everyone should be using . It all adds up , I'd be surprised if anyone could put a quality paint job that will last on a 40 for under $3500-$4000 .
Sarge
Sarge
I agree, I wasn't even disputing the 10k price - it is really easy to spend multiples of 10,000 when doing a show-quality paint; but I was trying to illustrate that cost is the hours it takes to get a good paint job. Just paint prep alone is a good 4-8 hours (scuff, de-grease, tape). That said, $3500-4000 is not $10,000.
I've built a lot of cars, and my rule of thumb is 50% of the time building, 50% paint and body work. I'm hoping to compress that on my '40 to be done by October, but we'll see if that actually happens (I'm also hoping to not do a lot of body work since a lot is coated by other things then paint). I have a friend now that illustrates how much more time can be body and paint. He's doing a show-quality 50 Chevrolet coupe. He spent 3 years building, now, on year 10, he's about done with final assembly...
I've built a lot of cars, and my rule of thumb is 50% of the time building, 50% paint and body work. I'm hoping to compress that on my '40 to be done by October, but we'll see if that actually happens (I'm also hoping to not do a lot of body work since a lot is coated by other things then paint). I have a friend now that illustrates how much more time can be body and paint. He's doing a show-quality 50 Chevrolet coupe. He spent 3 years building, now, on year 10, he's about done with final assembly...
- Thread starter
- #1,317
I'm going to get it stripped. My small pressure pot will take too long - many days. So I'd be fighting flash rust the entire way since I don't have a great setup for spraying a good epoxy primer via HPLV.
I'm going to investigate one of those outdoor garage tent like structures. That might work for primer.
I wish I could blast or sand a panel, and then prime it in the little tent. I could go along like that until I had the whole car. Unfortunately after doing the two sides of the tub, I don't believe I can strip it well enough, or that I'll be motivated enough to get it done.
Getting it blasted and then primed will let me do the metal work, and then I can try a bit of body work. The paint guy may wish to do the body work, but I would like to try to get it as done as possible by a rookie, then have him clean up my mess.
- Thread starter
- #1,318
And - took the frame, roll bar, plus air cleaner to the powder coater today. That's a big landmark for me. The driveway looks so empty!
Last edited:
VV, Congrats on dropping the frame off to be coated. It is awesome assembling clean parts. It is great knowing that once assembled, they are there for good. I have as much time lately just staring at my brand new chassis as I do working on it.
We recently purchased a Devilbiss starting line 2 gun kit. Epoxy primer is surprising easy to spray. The hardest part was completely cleaning the gun after use.
We recently purchased a Devilbiss starting line 2 gun kit. Epoxy primer is surprising easy to spray. The hardest part was completely cleaning the gun after use.
- Thread starter
- #1,320
Good to know. I have a couple of those, just haven't tried them yet.