1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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LOL, ok, Wayne, please take a video of it at 4700 rpm and 134mph.

Do you have locker lights - when they are engaged they light up?
 
the simple diagram as promised...

yes, there will be the indicator lights for when the locker is engaged.

not my truck so no way am i taking it that fast... just saying... it could do it but i think it would take a long time after 190 k/h
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wayne, it is looking great. very nice attention to detail.

did you consider switching the orientation on the rocker switches for the lockers?
to me, it is more intuitive to push the rocker towards the light to make it illuminate (and hence, lock). Small, small difference, but I think better.

Also- putting "engage" down the left side of the plate will make that side less cluttered, graphically, than disengage. there is already more text on the left than the right, so putting disengage on the right will balance it more.

just a thought.
 
yep, 5th gear .85 O/D

to me it makes no difference as long as it is marked which way to engage and disengage.

thanks for the compliment
 
so would I...
just saying if you could... 134 mph in a DIESEL 40 series is pretty darn quick...
 
is the redline on an hz that high?

134 in a lifted 40, I suppose that I'd be worried about a lot more than just the motor at that point!
 
yep, 4700 rpm is the recommended max for the PZ and the HZ.


so the customer had mentioned a passing concern about the shiny rivits that most flares are installed with so this was my solution to his concern:
powder coated rivits that match the rest of the powder coating.
we had measured and drilled 4 points of reference before painting
installed the 4 rivits to hold the flare in place
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then drill the remaining holes
tap the rivits home with a socket and hammer
then power rivit in place
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Toyo LT MT 255/85R16 on factory steel grays.
33.5 tall X 10.5 wide rated for 6.5 rims. tall and skinny.

i pick the tires up on friday and the barby is Saturday to show it off to those that want to make the drive up.
 
the assembly of the dash is probably the most time consuming of all the parts.
everything has to be fitted, shaved, fitted again.
the dash is much thicker than stock steel so each switch has to have a good amount of material removed...
you can see the aluminum reinforcements for the "Holy Crap" handle. i highly doubt the fiberglass would ever rip out but better safe than sorry.
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closer shot of the assembled dash
the knobs are still sitting loose
the whole thing will be stripped in the morning and off to the painters.
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i wasn't happy with the fuel tank cover just being painted. there will be lots of traffic over the back edge as people get in and out plus the back of the shoes will be rubbing on the front edge so the paint will not past.
i decided before i called it a night i would spray it with the color matched hippo liner.
you mix the 2 part liner with 3 ounces of color and blend well. i use the drill to speed things up and get an even mixture... down side is the time for use is reduced for some reason so you have to be ready to roll once it is mixed.
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next was the front flange
the bolt pattern between the 40 and the 80 is REAL close but no win.
the factory new companion flange was on tight, real tight.
we had an old flange sitting here so a 1/2" hole and a long bolt and the guide was created.
hand turning the drill to make sure it was centered.
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after a small pilot hole then it went up to the proper sized bit.
first hole then bolted tight, second hole then a bolt.
then the last 2 holes.
perfect
finished product.

sounds easy but it is a lot of precise work or you have a wasted companion flange at $240 a pop.

that is it for tonight.

cheers and thanks again for following along.
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