1HZ diesel engine valve shim job

[sunrk]

1HZ diesel engine valve shim job.

I have a genuine Toyota tool for it (thanks to another 1h8mud forum member), have read up quite a few guides on doing it. My 1hz now has 630 k km's on it.

Cannot currently afford to replace motor with a rebuilt 1hz or 1hz+t or 1hdt and fuel usage is going up so I'm wanting to get the nerve to tackle the shim job and try to get better performance from the old motor. Where are some really good guides? I've seen powermodz's youtube video and read the FSM. How long does the vehicle need to be out of use to do it? Obviously motor needs to be cold (at ambient temp) so at least a day then re-assemble to keep drivable since I would have to order shims in before any that need changing are replaced.

Here in Oz a replacement fully rebuilt 1hz motor is about A$4k, and a fully rebuilt 1hz+t or 1hdt will be around A$10k. So while I'm working towards saving for that, I need to keep the existing motor running.

Craig.

 

[IanB]

You'll have better results posting diesel specific questions in the diesel section, FYI.

 

[sunrk]

Surely there are enough diesel-powered 80's (or other landcruisers with 1hz diesel motor) in the US and Canada to pique interest in this forum.

 

[bloc]

There aren't many. And dramatically less owned by people that would do their own valve shim jobs.

That said.. I did the shims on my 1KZ-TE. Call ahead and check lead time on the shims from whatever your source is. If it's only a couple days find a way to keep the rig inoperable instead of removing everything twice. Somewhere there is a breakover point that you can't wait that long.. and that's up to you. I'm not sure about your engine but the 1KZ shims were very large diameter compared to most passenger car engines and not used on anything else.. so lead time was quite long. When I did the 10mm (I think) shims on my KTM it turns out the parts from a Harley Davidson were MUCH cheaper and they had stacks of them at a dealership right down the road.

 

[Sarmajor]

It is not a very complicated job once you get your head around the steps involved.
There are plenty of write ups in this forum and the diesel section.
There is a shim calculator in here as well so that you can work out what size shims you need to buy.

Once you have measured the clearances and your existing shims you will know which shim goes where and what size new ones to order.
I did my 1hdt at 240k km and only had to buy 4 shims. The rest were either ok or I swapped an existing one to a different space and fitted a new one wher it came from.
Down time will depend on delivery time for the new shims.
Replace the rocker cover gasket while you are in there as the OE one will be rock hard.

 

[sunrk]

About a week ago I got stuck into doing the first bit of the job (measure clearances and measure existing shims) to calculate what the correct shim sizes should be to cater for valve recession in the almost 630 k km young 1hz motor. Here in Oz there is a place called Precision Shims that makes all sorts of shims for automotive jobs including flat 37 mm shims in 0.02 mm increments (Toyota only do them in 0.05 mm increments). I can re-use some of the existing shims in other places, but I needed to order quite a lot as 10 of the 12 valve clearances were out of spec (worst being #1 intake valve cam only have 0.05 mm clearance - so almost zero).

Don't make the same 'shadetree mechanic' mistake I did and try turning the motor from underneath with a ratchet and 32 mm socket while still in gear! At least it didn't cause any damage and I can laugh about it now. Lets just say it proved my clutch is good because of how hard it was to turn the motor by hand... There's no way I'd use the starter motor to rotate the motor. Not when things are off it.