1fz-fe head gasket & maintenance

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LandStalker

LandStalker

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Threads
3
Messages
30
Location
Seattle WA
Hi mudders,
What work should be done while the head is off my '94 FZJ80? It has nearly 200,000 miles, and I just wanted to hear any thoughts on other work that should be done at this point. I have the OEM complete engine gasket kit, and FSM. Here is what else I plan to do now:
Valve Job
Clean Injectors
Replace Belts

As for resurfacing the head, I took a straight edge to it and looks fine. Should be good without machining it, right?

Thanks in advance!

IMG_20160416_180511.webp
 
cooling system:
-water pump
-thermostat
-fan clutch
-rad hoses

seals on engine? front main seal or dizzy o-ring, etc.?
 
Hit the oil cooler on the side of the block and the fuel filter.
 
Baggar, replace the oil cooler?
 
I just did the same thing, kind of...Get that PHH changed while it's right there and vacuum hoses while the manifold Is apart.
You can also inspect the harness real well and clean and wrap it better.
 
Looks really good. You will want to have the head surfaced though even if it's not warped. Like DDabs suggestions.
 
Thanks guys. That pic was taken after I had been scraping & brushing off the old gasket remains, and after doing the same to the carbon on the #1 & #6 pistons. She had a pretty good oil leak from the back of the engine, and it looked like that I guessed right that it was from the HG. But now I have 2 more questions:
1) Where are the Pesky Heater Hose and the Dizzy O-ring located?
2) Front Main Seal- is that the Oil Pump Seal?

Thanks again. This is the deepest I have ever dug into this engine, so sorry for the clarifications.
 
Coolant system is priority number one!!!
air filter
spark plugs
cap/rotor/wires
fuel filter
distributer gasket
fuel filter
OIL PUMP SEAL!!! If you have the radiator out you should do this. But it might be tough since you cant "bump" the bolt free.
Alternator brushes, cheap and you will have the alt out.

Consider:
power steering pump rebuild and lines. Just a little easier to reach

front motor mounts. Search my threads! these were a bitch for me. But SOOOO much easier to reach the nuts with out the head in place. I had to remove the brackets that hold the motor mounts. No way would i have done it with head on and exhaust manifold in place. That being said i am not sure really how bad my old mounts were. But glad to have new ones in there.

Fuel injector wiring harness plugs. Mine were all broken and dried out. They are easy to replace with everything out. Lots of room to work. I removed the air cleaner base and sat in the engine compartment where the air cleaner goes. You can get right up next to what you are working on.
 
PHH is driver side where the firewall hose makes a 90 and goes to hardline and back into head cylinder. There is about a 2 inch section of rubber on Head that will never be easier to replace.
Front main seal is on crank behind pulley and attaches to timing cover. If you bought the full gasket set you have it as well as rear main.
At this point I would advise yanking the motor and doing them.
 
Dizzy o ring is in the middle of the shaft on distributer you also have that if you bought kit.
 
Anyone know the size/type of hose I need to replace the Manifold Vacuum Lines?
 
This is a good time to test all the sensors that are in the side of the head as well the VSS's. This is outlined in the FSM.
I strongly recommend the use of an accurately calibrated torque wrench, especially for the head bolt or studs whichever you decide to use.
 
Crank them old head bolts back down till they stop, maybe 110ish lbs.
FSM and "specs" please.
accurately calibrated torque wrench" stop the BS.
Torque value is for assembly plants and all new stuff.
A 20 year old truck requires common sense.
 
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I know you guy's a long time, and ^ you are one of the few guys I will read.
May I ask if that NASA calibrated torque wrench will compensate for dirty threads, age, and other types of variables?
The old head bolts will need to make popping sounds at finish, 3 foot pipe handle,
you get you some.
Yes, you could stretch you a new set a Supra bolts.
 
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Haha Fred, I totally understand going by feel and a lot of times that is how I will do it, but with the Toyota head bolts, they are torque to yield and there is a fine line between tight enough and getting them too tight and stretching them so they don't hold. This line is even finer when you are reusing old bolts. I am glad you were able to make it work and that it has held for 6 years that pretty great but I think you're the exception to the rule! Most people won't be as lucky, so when using the Toyota bolts I would say safer rather than sorry.
 
I'm not sure of the size but it's part # 90999-92003. Cut to fit, need at least 3 I beleive.
The bigger hose I got silicone I beleive 5mm.
 
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