Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (1 Viewer)

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When I was looking at options for a roof rack for a recent CO trip, I considered the exo option and the Thule gutter mount option. While I went the Thule route (due to ease of install vs completely fabbing an exo), I didn't have time to install it and so now I have time to reconsider the exo option. TBH, I was going to use 2" rectangle tubing with the wide side parallel to the body. I would use a piece of 2x4 to align the pieces parallel to the body. More time consuming but I think would make a big aesthetic difference is making cuts and angles to match the side of the body of the 70 series.

For ease of removal, check into Polyperformance interlocking inner diameter tube clamps. I would argue that it doesn't hurt the integrity/strength of the exo w/ a roof rack. They have 1"-2" sizes

Just my 2 cents.
 
Gun Runner 5 said:
Terrain Tamer makes a good unit.
Click to expand...


For a 13BT with the vac pump on the back?

I was under the impression they only had one for 1HZ/1PZ/1HDT.

Cheers
 
SNLC said:
For a 13BT with the vac pump on the back?

I was under the impression they only had one for 1HZ/1PZ/1HDT.

Cheers
Click to expand...
I'll readily admit I don't know. Georg could no doubt provide the answer.
 
FJ73Texas said:
partsouq shows to have them available: 2737154412 Toyota BRUSH, ALTERNATOR Price: 2.59$, Weight: 0.002kg - PartSouq - Auto Parts Around the World PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

Edit: nevermind....I see that you are looking for associated parts like the holder it seems.
Click to expand...

I found the brushes like you listed, but that was about it. I might see if there is a cross reference for a local part. I just need to pull them out to make sure thats the issue and not the Voltage regulator.
 
Upon testing the alternator/battery with my voltmeter I get the following.

Battery: 12.60v
Alternator at 600ish rpms: 13.60v lights flicker, battery light and VR buzzes
Alternator at 650ish rpms: 14.60v everything fine.

I checked the tension on the belt again, seemed fine.

According to the manual, if voltage is low off spec to adjust the Voltage regulator or replace it. That’s it. Nothing on how to adjust it, just adjust it.

D3E6B8E3-D3A0-498B-838E-D4BEC8B0CF59.jpeg


So upon searching mud I found an excellent read on Voltage Regulators by @bj40green
Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works


dsc06151_adjustment-jpg.773364


This is the adjustment they are talking about. I'm going to give it a try and see where I'm at.
 
This might not be helpful but when I had an alternator guy rebuild my starter and alt, he found parts via Toyota forklift suppliers.
Mine’s 24v though. Perhaps some bits are the same.
 
FJBen said:
Upon testing the alternator/battery with my voltmeter I get the following.

Battery: 12.60v
Alternator at 600ish rpms: 13.60v lights flicker, battery light and VR buzzes
Alternator at 650ish rpms: 14.60v everything fine.

I checked the tension on the belt again, seemed fine.

According to the manual, if voltage is low off spec to adjust the Voltage regulator or replace it. That’s it. Nothing on how to adjust it, just adjust it.

View attachment 2059650

So upon searching mud I found an excellent read on Voltage Regulators by @bj40green
Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works


dsc06151_adjustment-jpg.773364


This is the adjustment they are talking about. I'm going to give it a try and see where I'm at.
Click to expand...
I was looking for exactly this info, good job finding it and posting.
 
Still fighting the Alternator/VR fun.

The buzzing VR really leads me to believe is the VR going south. I realize the voltage gauge is a slightly better dummy light, but it did start swinging much more than it used to. What I haven't fully figured out it how to test if the alternator is good without using the VR. With the idle up and driving, it is able to power the lights, and off-road at the same time. Just not at idle anymore when it used to be able to.

I found this post by Pin_HeaD

Put your volt meter on the B+ lug of the alternator. CHECK, DID THIS,
Disconnect the plug at the back of the alternator. It's more like the side, this post was from 40 series section
Start the engine and rev it up to 1500 RPM.
Jump between the B+ lug and the F terminal (umplugged) with a wire or paper clip. Not sure what the "F" terminal is on my alt.
If the voltage rises above 13V, the alternator is good.
Remove jumper wire.

VR.jpg
 
F I believe stands for FIELD or the Field coils inside the thing.
Maybe you are jumping the battery power direct to field coils which in turn means "run full blast"?
I am guessing.
 
PabloCruise said:
Yes, sounds like you are fully fielding the alternator.

Is there a way to replace VR and alternator with an internally regulated unit? Say out of a 60?
Click to expand...

The problem is with these diesels, the vacuum pump is attached to the back of the alternator. There are some options that require mods like an NPR diesel ones, or getting a regular alternator and a stand alone vacuum pump. I’m not quite there yet.
 
The 13BT also came fitted with an internally regulated alternator. My BJ71 has one. I’ve just recently replaced mine because it wouldn’t muster enough voltage to recharge the batteries while out driving (only outputting 23v @ 2500rpm)
 
PabloCruise said:
Wow, that would pretty much lock you in to that alternator!

Let me know if I can get you anything from Denver...
Click to expand...


Yeah, slim pickins on the alternator front. I will definitely let you know if there is something out that way that I might need.


Josh NZ said:
The 13BT also came fitted with an internally regulated alternator. My BJ71 has one. I’ve just recently replaced mine because it wouldn’t muster enough voltage to recharge the batteries while out driving (only outputting 23v @ 2500rpm)
Click to expand...


I see that on the parts sites that there is an internally regulated version, but I haven't found any alternators for 12v for it. What alternator did you order, possible they might carry 12v as well.

I just ordered a voltage regulator and brushes, so hopefully that will fix it.
 
You're 12V right?

I've got a New Era VR that I took off my 40 when I rebuilt it... I put a new OEM VR in my truck instead. The New Era VR still works and you'd be welcome to it. It's a 6-wire... but it was only working as a 4-wire in my truck. It's an "AVR-558 12V, 6Z7"
 
Honger said:
You're 12V right?

I've got a New Era VR that I took off my 40 when I rebuilt it... I put a new OEM VR in my truck instead. The New Era VR still works and you'd be welcome to it. It's a 6-wire... but it was only working as a 4-wire in my truck. It's an "AVR-558 12V, 6Z7"
Click to expand...

Yep 12V, I really appreciate that, my order just shipped for the VR I just ordered. :doh:

27700-15040 is the newest part number for mine. I looked up AVR-558 and partsouq has those for $14.61 each, but they don't show them as a substitution for 27700-15040 so I'm not sure if it would work or not. Hopefully it's the VR I just ordered, otherwise I guess I have a spare. :D

thanks again for the offer! :beer:

If I'm still having issues after new VR and brushes, I may go the NPR route.
 
FJBen said:
I see that on the parts sites that there is an internally regulated version, but I haven't found any alternators for 12v for it. What alternator did you order, possible they might carry 12v as well.

I just ordered a voltage regulator and brushes, so hopefully that will fix it.
Click to expand...


Hmm, I had temporarily forgotten you have a 12v system! My comment may be very little use to you, I have no idea if an internally regulated version was available for 12v. Maybe a Toyota Dyna parts cat could shed some light.. they came 13B/T if my memory serves.

I got lucky and bought a recently rebuilt 24v model out of a wrecked JDM BJ74 for $200NZD
 
Josh NZ said:
Hmm, I had temporarily forgotten you have a 12v system! My comment may be very little use to you, I have no idea if an internally regulated version was available for 12v. Maybe a Toyota Dyna parts cat could shed some light.. they came 13B/T if my memory serves.

I got lucky and bought a recently rebuilt 24v model out of a wrecked JDM BJ74 for $200NZD
Click to expand...

No worries, I appreciate the help. I will check some Dyna's out and see if any options come up there.

Yeah it doesn't seem like there are very many 12V BJ74's running around. I mainly only hear about BJ70's being 12v.
 
Last edited:
Update.

The new VR: 27700-15040 worked great to fix the charging issue. Now no flickering air/glow/turbo/overboost light on low idle or with lights on or anything. I'm keeping the old as a spare as it sort of worked and would work in a pinch. Might not be a bad long trip spare parts to use the old VR and alternator brushes: 27371-56612

IMG_5261.jpg
 
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