Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (5 Viewers)

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Personally I’d like to basically monitor lots of things without having a ton of gauges around.

Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Boost
Egt
Voltage
Oil temp

Good note on the voltage. I forgot about that. I’ll probably also add an ambient air temp gauge.
 
You can use pretty standard senders from everything I looked at. I already have a thermocouple and boost, some of the others will require some planning.

I’ve been doing some research on this. Not completely sure what components I’ll be using but I’ve been looking into McMastercarr, Honeywell, and some basic thermometer probes.
 
Good day to run errands. Drive throughs always fun.

18 weeks this week.

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So new problem just started happening.

It seems my shutdown is getting goofy. I'm not sure if the shutdown butterfly isn't closing all they way or not.

On shutdown after driving for a little bit, once it turns off, it continues to stumble and partly run (like dieseling in a car) for a few seconds then shuts off. On first startup and shutdown not too long after, it shuts down fine. Sometimes it also shuts down fine, so I"m not sure whats going on, but I"m guessing vacuum issues.

I read a post on here with someone experiencing the same thing and finding out it was loose intake bolts. I checked those and no issues. I'm going to dive into vacuum lines, but any other guesses? I supposed it could be the VSV sticking so testing that would be good.
 
The VSV and shutdown butterfly are working correctly. On shutdown, the butterfly closes but the vehicle just stumbles at low RPM. I can manually open the butterfly and it runs like normal. I'm pretty positive it's an intake leak. It also only happens after it's run for a little bit which make me thing expansion between aluminum/steel.

I tightened a few of the easy to reach bolts yesterday, and all were tight. However, I havent checked most of the bolts under the middle of the intake. I can hear a ssssss sound after it finally shuts down towards the front of the engine. I really hope I don't have to change the intake gasket. :( There are only a few vacuum lines it could be so I'll dig into that again.
 
Nothing exciting other than I'm completely out of options on why it won't shut off. I've tightened every bolt around intake, no change.

It's not the VSV. The VSV closes the butterfly as it should. I started to think it was an adjustment issue on the butterfly, but then when the engine is cold, the engine shuts off just fine. Drive a 1.5 miles to the end of my dirt road and it won't shut off.

I've checked all of the vacuum lines I can think of that would affect it. The only vacuum line I see AFTER the butterfly valve is the one that ties into the Injection pump is the boost compensator. Other wise the only thing I can see that could "suck air" for lack of a better term is the gaskets around the intake grid heater or the intake gasket itself. I don't think it's the intake heater as those are ,metal gaskets and I don't hear anything from that area.

Any other thoughts before I decided to pull the intake which seems like a complete pain in the butt?

The gasket was from a rebuild kit from engines australia. This is probably one of those should have went with OEM parts. Looks like I have to pull all injector lines, venturi, and some cooler lines, fuel filter/lines possibly...:bang:

Part Number: 1717-156010

And a photo from the lake yesterday.
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So the leak has gotten worse. Now shutting down doesn’t do anything, you have to stall or pull the fuel cutoff.
I received the OEM gasket and can 100% see why the one from engine Australia is failing. It’s about normal paper gasket thickness while OEM is more like what I think of being a thick, compressible gasket. Pretty annoyed about this as I thought the gasket seemed flimsy. Should have went with my gut.
Plan is on Friday to pull intake, replace gasket, check valves, check timing again while I’m in there.

And since I don’t have anything else to fix (alternator on tdi Jetta, oil changes daughters Toyota, suspension on van,)
This happened Friday:

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I was parked in a parking lot, no cars around when a dodge with a flatbed and round hay bale feeder backed into the front. At least they came in to find me and tell me they hit it. Bumper, fender, lights, hood and fender pushed back into door. This was the nicest vehicle we own :confused: Any guesses on damage total? At least I don’t have to pay for it. Waiting to get a bid this week.
Looking for front bumpers, not a fan on the arb Sahara and we are in deer country.
 
Well that sucks! At least you don’t have to pay for it. I’ve got no clue on repair value... just wanted to express sympathy.

Sounds like you’ve identified the issue on your 74 though. That’s positive.
 
Well that sucks! At least you don’t have to pay for it. I’ve got no clue on repair value... just wanted to express sympathy.

Sounds like you’ve identified the issue on your 74 though. That’s positive.

Yeah, I'm hoping this resolves the shut-down issue. If not, I just did a whole lot of work for nothing :bang:
Lots of little bits and pieces to solve, this one if annoying me the most.
 
Low hanging fruit.

Blower resistor $20 for 12v. I should have probably bought 2, just for the future. Works like a champ, all speeds now.

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Kicker 6.5” Wouldn’t fit in my daughters so I swapped her my pioneers. Nowhere near a nice of setup as @c2dfj45 speaker pods, but the damage was already done on these door cards. Head unit and subs later.

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So the estimate for my Tundra is back. $4,600...oh joy! I figued $3000ish.

Big work day planned on the BJ74, we will see how this goes.
 
Long work day.

Pulled the manifold. That was a pain. The heater hose underneath is a pain to get loose. The gasket was a pos. Way thinner than factory and didn’t really cover the front cylinder intake.

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I did a spill timing again just to make sure since I had it all apart and I’m slightly advanced and leaving it at that.


I checked the valves as well, all were just a little loose. This is the first time since initial setting.

I also shimmed the wastegate a little more. Upon the short flat test drive, I pulled 11psi and it moves a bit quicker now. More boost! Inwill get an adjustable wastegate and set it at 15 and call it good.

As for the shutoff...it didn’t fix it all the way. :bang:
It stopped the first time, then not the second. I messed with the butterfly valve when I had the intake out, so I’m going to tinker with that again

Finn thinks the sliding windows in the 70 series are the best.

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Long work day.

Pulled the manifold. That was a pain. The heater hose underneath is a pain to get loose. The gasket was a pos. Way thinner than factory and didn’t really cover the front cylinder intake.

View attachment 2093335

View attachment 2093336

I did a spill timing again just to make sure since I had it all apart and I’m slightly advanced and leaving it at that.


I checked the valves as well, all were just a little loose. This is the first time since initial setting.

I also shimmed the wastegate a little more. Upon the short flat test drive, I pulled 11psi and it moves a bit quicker now. More boost! Inwill get an adjustable wastegate and set it at 15 and call it good.

As for the shutoff...it didn’t fix it all the way. :bang:
It stopped the first time, then not the second. I messed with the butterfly valve when I had the intake out, so I’m going to tinker with that again

Finn thinks the sliding windows in the 70 series are the best.

View attachment 2093354
Damn dude. Your truck really is a s*** show.
 
So completely my messup on it not shutting off last night. I messed with the shutoff butterfly stops a little and that allowed enough air to run on.

Pulled the stops back and now she shuts off just fine. Crappy gasket from engine Australia was the culprit like I thought.

Damn dude. Your truck really is a s*** show.

How so? I’m not surprised by a few things going on after a rebuild, the crappy gasket I knew better. As for the rest, it was just fixing a few things another machine shop jacked up.
 
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