Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (10 Viewers)

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:cry:
 
EGT probe in. Install the MAP sensor as well for the Auber gauges or other gauges in the future. I still need to mount and wire the gauge inside. Thankfully there is a very easy/close spot right into the cab at the rubber plug in back.

EGTprobe.jpg
 
Temporarily have the Auber in. It's going probably under a stereo...or in a gauge pod, not sure. They don't photograph well in light, but very easy to read, way easier than the clock, which for some reason is way easier to read in this photo.

auber.jpg


I had to reprogram the boost as it was reading off, but now it's displaying correctly.

Flat ground, 3,400' elevation, 80° F
65mph = 800F EGT
75mph = 1000F EGT

I will get the boost later now that I don't have to do math.


I may do the dash OEM pod and make that work, just not sure yet.
 
Temporarily have the Auber in. It's going probably under a stereo...or in a gauge pod, not sure. They don't photograph well in light, but very easy to read, way easier than the clock, which for some reason is way easier to read in this photo.

auber.jpg


I had to reprogram the boost as it was reading off, but now it's displaying correctly.

Flat ground, 3,400' elevation, 80° F
65mph = 800F EGT
75mph = 1000F EGT

I will get the boost later now that I don't have to do math.


I may do the dash OEM pod and make that work, just not sure yet.

What is your boost at when cruising at 65?
 
So it looks like my max boost is 10psi. I'm going to try and get to 14psi and call it good on boost with this setup. Without an intercooler thats about the max I'd want to go. I have A LOT of other projects to do before an intercooler. :D
 
Pulled the top at lunch. It's hot today. Supposed to be 101 on Saturday. I'm ready, except for the dork doors in back I need to take off. Why Toyota didn't make all doors 1/2 doors on the FRP tops is beyond me....but my guess is price.


notop.jpg
 
Pulled the doors off last night. I found rust on the upper hinges. Just surface so I can scrape and seal that. Not sure if I will keep it topless or put the top back on. I did find out at some point, something was drilled through the roof. I'm guessing wires for lights or something. It doesn't leak. A full softtop would be nice for the summer.

 
I don't recall the P/N of the adhesive but I think it is in the FSM.
 
Gasgacinch fits that bill. It is like a low strength contact cement.
 
Just messing around with roof rack ideas. I REALLY don't like the idea of holes or gutter mounts on the FRP.

The exo is OK, I would make sure it would be bolted on/removable. Lots of strength possible going to the rear bumper and a spot on the frame much like a bolt on slide would be attached.

Plenty of room for adding whatever accessory I could need all over the rack, or every accessory I don't need that might look cool 🤣



Warning, terrible photoshop.
BJ74 mock.jpg



I like the truck bed rails solution, but it has some issues as well. The top rail isn't flat on the BJ74 I"m not sure if 1/8" steel would mess up FRP top alignment too much. THere may be enough squish in the rubber gasket to cover 1/8 ~ 3/16" but I would have to check that.



These are just tabs that are maybe 6-8" wide that don't go the whole length of the bed. Might be a decent solution if there if enough room in the rubber gaskets.

LEER%20122.jpg
 
So the alternator is on the fritz, or at least it was for 1 night. Battery light flickering along with other dash lights, and volt meter flickering up and down sporadically. THe more load, the worse it got. Which is annoying as my car's alternator crapped out coming back from the same place the night before.

Alternator started acting up, battery lights flickering and all sorts of weird stuff on the way home one night. This morning no issues at all, which makes me think the brush(s) are worn.

27371-54412 Is the part number for the single brush to be soldered on. It appears the holder and all that are NLA.
It also appears that there is only 1 brush on these alternators.

I've been scouring mud for alternator sources, but aside from being rebuilt if it can (I have no shops close so I'd be shipping off again) and the vacuum pump makes it a little harder to deal with. I've read thoughts on the NPR alternator which sounds like a good idea, just have to make brackets.

Any thoughts?
 
So the alternator is on the fritz, or at least it was for 1 night. Battery light flickering along with other dash lights, and volt meter flickering up and down sporadically. THe more load, the worse it got. Which is annoying as my car's alternator crapped out coming back from the same place the night before.

Alternator started acting up, battery lights flickering and all sorts of weird stuff on the way home one night. This morning no issues at all, which makes me think the brush(s) are worn.

27371-54412 Is the part number for the single brush to be soldered on. It appears the holder and all that are NLA.
It also appears that there is only 1 brush on these alternators.

I've been scouring mud for alternator sources, but aside from being rebuilt if it can (I have no shops close so I'd be shipping off again) and the vacuum pump makes it a little harder to deal with. I've read thoughts on the NPR alternator which sounds like a good idea, just have to make brackets.

Any thoughts?
 

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