Remains to be seen
Builds 1987 FJ60 Expedition Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter KeepCruzin
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #342
I just ran them through the firewall, down under the carpet in the driverside footwell, then back under the carpet edge on the drivers side. I just unscrewed the plastic pieces that hold the carpet down and laid the wire under the edge of the carpet with the existing harness that goes to the rear of the truck. Once its back to the rear wheel well, just run it up into the rear quarter storage area, up one rear pillar to the switch, then up into the hatch to power the lights, and one runs down and across to the other interior light. Pretty straightforward. Nothing crazy complex.
- Thread starter
- #343
Im going to find out! They lights are housed in solid aluminum housings, and LED's are pretty resistant to heat. I will say I am more concerned with the actual wires melting than the lights. I didnt run big wire (20ga) because the lights came with 20ga leads anyway. I did put most of the wire in a hard plastic sleeve that should protect it from heat.
I guess ill see what happens. But frankly, they only ran me 20$ and if it all goes to crap in a few drives... lesson learned.
They should be fine dude, Chefyota4x4's are still there.
What's the link?!
What's the link?!
Wait think I found it
http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Al...TF8&qid=1429476921&sr=1-6&keywords=led+strips
http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Al...TF8&qid=1429476921&sr=1-6&keywords=led+strips
- Thread starter
- #346
It hasn't been long, but I thought I'd share the early results from the LED under-hood testing.
Even after a long drive they are only warm to the touch. Wires look and feel fine. No excessive heat buildup anywhere.
The lights themselves get quite hot when turned on, and never even approach their own operating temperature when off while driving.
I think all this might be because they are forward of the radiator and engine bay. They get good air flow under the hood I think.
Anyway. So far so good. Such a sweet mod I gotta say.
Even after a long drive they are only warm to the touch. Wires look and feel fine. No excessive heat buildup anywhere.
The lights themselves get quite hot when turned on, and never even approach their own operating temperature when off while driving.
I think all this might be because they are forward of the radiator and engine bay. They get good air flow under the hood I think.
Anyway. So far so good. Such a sweet mod I gotta say.
- Thread starter
- #347
Clutch struggles.
So my clutch master is leaking. I opened the door to find a puddle of fluid on my rubber floor mat right under the pedal. It appears to be seeping out of the piston and dripping off the pedal. Not a big leak, but certainly consistent.
Also, the thing creaks like an old door. I pulled the spring off that pulls the pedal up towards the driver. That cured the sound. (How do I shut that spring up?)
Another problem!
When I push the clutch, I can hear the slave creaking/squeaking super loud. It's like an old hinge or something.
Any pro-tips on how to eliminate these sounds/leaks? It's driving me nuts.
So my clutch master is leaking. I opened the door to find a puddle of fluid on my rubber floor mat right under the pedal. It appears to be seeping out of the piston and dripping off the pedal. Not a big leak, but certainly consistent.
Also, the thing creaks like an old door. I pulled the spring off that pulls the pedal up towards the driver. That cured the sound. (How do I shut that spring up?)
Another problem!
When I push the clutch, I can hear the slave creaking/squeaking super loud. It's like an old hinge or something.
Any pro-tips on how to eliminate these sounds/leaks? It's driving me nuts.
Replace both the master and slave cylinders.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
It's not as spendy as you think, and it's a 30 minute job. I would also replace the soft line if you haven't already at the same time.
Dan
Sleeve the return spring inside a piece of rubber hose, it may shut it up.
- Thread starter
- #351
We have a real-time problem.
I was driving to school today, and a runner just ran out across the road.
I slammed on my brakes and nearly locked them up. I hit the brakes HARD.
The brakes worked great, and got me down to about 10mph, then I felt a sort of "POP"
It wasnt audible, just an imediate release of pedal pressure.
The pedal then dropped like a rock, and nearly hit the floor before fully engaging.
The brakes still WORK. I dont NOT have brakes. But now the pedal doesnt start to brake until the very end of the pedal stroke. The brakes are as effective at stopping the car as normal, but the pedal just feels dead. I can pump it up, but after a couple seconds they just go flat and dont engage until an inch or two off the floor.
I limped the truck to school and engine braked most of the way. The Master is full of fluid, the the lines dont appear to be leaking.
What went wrong?!
Advice?
Help?
Thanks guys!
I was driving to school today, and a runner just ran out across the road.
I slammed on my brakes and nearly locked them up. I hit the brakes HARD.
The brakes worked great, and got me down to about 10mph, then I felt a sort of "POP"
It wasnt audible, just an imediate release of pedal pressure.
The pedal then dropped like a rock, and nearly hit the floor before fully engaging.
The brakes still WORK. I dont NOT have brakes. But now the pedal doesnt start to brake until the very end of the pedal stroke. The brakes are as effective at stopping the car as normal, but the pedal just feels dead. I can pump it up, but after a couple seconds they just go flat and dont engage until an inch or two off the floor.
I limped the truck to school and engine braked most of the way. The Master is full of fluid, the the lines dont appear to be leaking.
What went wrong?!
Advice?
Help?
Thanks guys!
I had this same exact thing happen to me a while back.
I checked all of the lines, brake cylinders in the drums, and calipers for leaks and there was nothing. Reservoir was full of fluid.
Then I changed the booster, and still no pedal.
It ended up being a blown master cylinder. I guess with the sudden slamming of the brake pedal the seals in the MC blew out. They sell new ones at NAPA for a decent price.
It was a fairly quick swap out... 3 or 4 bolts, a couple of lines, then just bench bleed the new one, throw it in, bleed the brakes, and you are golden.
I checked all of the lines, brake cylinders in the drums, and calipers for leaks and there was nothing. Reservoir was full of fluid.
Then I changed the booster, and still no pedal.
It ended up being a blown master cylinder. I guess with the sudden slamming of the brake pedal the seals in the MC blew out. They sell new ones at NAPA for a decent price.
It was a fairly quick swap out... 3 or 4 bolts, a couple of lines, then just bench bleed the new one, throw it in, bleed the brakes, and you are golden.
Thinking maybe master cylinder
- Thread starter
- #354
My brake light on the dash is now permanently on. My brake fluid level dropped bellow minimum. Will a refill turn off the brake light?
I am going to limp the truck to the shop tomorrow after school. Trying to engine brake as much as possible.
I am going to limp the truck to the shop tomorrow after school. Trying to engine brake as much as possible.
Yes the refill will make the light go out but you have larger problems than a light. Sounds like the master is stuffed
If its the master, consider replacing the booster too. Although my brake issues didn't happen all of a sudden like yours, if the master is leaking at the back of the cylinder the brake fluid might have damaged the booster diaphragms. The boosters are super easy to change too.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Definitely the master... I felt something similar to that when I first got my truck.. The PO had told me that the booster was bad so I replaced the booster with a new one thanks to Georg (@orangefj45). After I bled the brakes I also replaced the front pads and was bedding them in when I felt a similar pop on a hard brake. Pedal immediately went down to the floor like you described.
So with a new Brake MC everything has been fine. Think they are still available from Onur or the other guys.
So with a new Brake MC everything has been fine. Think they are still available from Onur or the other guys.
- Thread starter
- #358
Well. You were ALL wrong!
Master works great. Rear wheel cylinder blew out.
I'm going to be doing a total hydraulic overhaul tomorrow.
New
-brake master (80 series)
-rear wheel cinders-both sides
-clutch master
-clutch slave
Other mods going down tomorrow
-new shoes
-newly machined drums
-new upper radiator hose
-new thermostat housing gasket
-Acid washed thermostat
-New coolant
Tomorrow is going to be a big day
Master works great. Rear wheel cylinder blew out.
I'm going to be doing a total hydraulic overhaul tomorrow.
New
-brake master (80 series)
-rear wheel cinders-both sides
-clutch master
-clutch slave
Other mods going down tomorrow
-new shoes
-newly machined drums
-new upper radiator hose
-new thermostat housing gasket
-Acid washed thermostat
-New coolant
Tomorrow is going to be a big day
Glad you got it figured out!
I should have mentioned in my original response that you should go around and check all of the tires for brake fluid spray. I have had a rear cylinder bust out as well with the same symptoms. Good idea doing an overhaul... It seems like once one part goes out, they all tend to follow the leader.
I should have mentioned in my original response that you should go around and check all of the tires for brake fluid spray. I have had a rear cylinder bust out as well with the same symptoms. Good idea doing an overhaul... It seems like once one part goes out, they all tend to follow the leader.
- Thread starter
- #360
Talk about a day!
New everything!
New everything!
