1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications

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antisieze is your friend.
i had thought of the ballbearing or lead fill on allenhead bolts but decided against it.
i will be using these same bolts for the bumper since the bumpers are changed out spring and fall. too easy to remove the bumper if the winch won't come off.
this way the bumper and the winch is secure and uses the same tool.
 
ummm, let me think about this for a moment ...
:hhmm:
:hhmm:
:hhmm:
:hhmm:
:hhmm:
:idea:
:ban:
:doh:
:cheers:
you heard the man wayne, knock some powder coat off that bumper with yer grinder and burn on some scrap angle or channel over the bolts to keep things together on that old plow beater of yours!
 
Got to this thread through the GB thread, looking for ideas on how to mount the lights I got as well. Well....what can I say, you take the cake man!

I went through every page...outstanding work Wayne. :clap:

If I may ask, what do you use to prevent your nice expensive lights from being stolen? I saw that innovative thing for the winch, but surely that is not used on the lights as well right? So, what do you do to mitigate that risk?

I love the aluminium interior panels too. How heavy are they compared to stock?
 
i use tamper proof SS bolts on all the lighting. not perfect but will hold back the average thief.
the interior panels ...
roughly, 1.5 lbs cardboard and 10 lbs aluminum.

if you check out my troopie build (in my signature) those custom aluminum side panels weigh in at about 80 lbs ... if i remember correctly.

cheers and thanks for the compliment, appreciated.
 
one of the joys of working on Ontario trucks, rust proofing.
this one had a tar like substance installed at some point, maybe factory, maybe after market ... either way it had to go so the sound deadner would adhere properly.
so, clean out items from the door
scrape with scraper till most of the substance was gone
then go over with "Goof Off", wicked stuff for removing grease, tar, a lot of different glues ... but don't use on certain paints and PC. it softens the coating and can lead to discoloring or even removal. test in small area first.
ready for sound deadening insulation...
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measure twice
cut to size
turn back the corners for easy removal
then install

made a huge difference behind the sub.
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finishing off the front summer bumper extension ...
strong and not that heavy ...
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Don't use "Goof Off" to remove pine sapp from the hood or roof. :D
 
so you want to add another access for wiring into the back door, eh?
well, drill the first sheet of the 3rd pillar
then drill the inside one, done right?
nope, now drill the 3rd sheet of metal for full access.

now you can run the factory wiring.
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install the wiring
reinstall the wiper motor, washer unit, sub woofer, amp, and test.
the sound was much crisper with the sound deadening installed.
one door done.
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nest i had to run 5 air lines for the air bag system through the rear fender so i decided to make up a removable bulkhead panel .
once the panel was made then the holes needed drilling though.
this allows for a solid mount with no chance for damage to the lines in the future.
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further assembly of the panel for test fitting the hole.
drill and install the nutzerts
install the inner hoses and lable
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lable and color code the fittings
install the bulk head
lable and shrink wrap the lines.
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while we were pissing around at the back, Ryan found a soft spot.
rust ... again.
so a panel was made up with access provided for the 4 X 4 gauge wires for the Inverter. a layer of roofing tar was shoved into the holes and the painted panel installed over. this panel will probably outlast the rest of the body but the body isn't worth a top notch "Kevin" repair.
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run the wires and air lines
done
inside the truck ready for attaching.
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hooking up the main feeds to the fuse boxes
starter and glow plug battery, had to run the new starter feed from RHS to LHS.
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now for the capacitor
find location
make brackets
figure wiring
install wiring.

make it look as clean as possible
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