1985 BJ70 CND refubishing and modifications
- Thread starter crushers
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Diesel Cruiserman said:I think he mentioned idle up
Rob
For the welder.
- Thread starter
- #483
as mentioned, welder auto idle up. the connection pic will be coming, i need to make a fitting for the factory linkage. it is a chain linkage.
draws 50A when it fires up so i will need to add another fuse to the panel ...
draws 50A when it fires up so i will need to add another fuse to the panel ...
- Thread starter
- #484
i needed to move the throttle cable over so a new mount was fashioned up.
the locking bolts for the bumpers and winch arrived.
factory55 does some seriously good work.
the locking bolts for the bumpers and winch arrived.
factory55 does some seriously good work.
- Thread starter
- #486
then it was the welder wiring and controls.
first up was, once again, locating somewhere to put the units.
once the location was found then making a bracket to hold everything that was easy to work with since you need to disconnect the vehicle's electrical system completely when welding. Zena make this a simple proceedure ... once everything is mounted.
between the air box and the air drier system was a perfect location ...
first up was, once again, locating somewhere to put the units.
once the location was found then making a bracket to hold everything that was easy to work with since you need to disconnect the vehicle's electrical system completely when welding. Zena make this a simple proceedure ... once everything is mounted.
between the air box and the air drier system was a perfect location ...
- Thread starter
- #487
test fitting for clearence to the airbox, tight but acceptable.
getting an idea for wiring and what needs lengthening and what can use shortening, what is redundant ...
then a lip for the control knobs was added.
getting an idea for wiring and what needs lengthening and what can use shortening, what is redundant ...
then a lip for the control knobs was added.
- Thread starter
- #488
since the control boxes are only held on with one tiny bolt i wanted to add lips that they would push against to keep them stable.
because the main battery quick connect is going to be pulled and pushed against i wanted to tripod the end to keep it stable and strong, then a bracket to bolt the quick connect to as well as a location for the 6 wire quick connect that disconnects the trucks electrical system. both are hand with ample room to get the hand down for access.
glass beaded and ready for paint.
because the main battery quick connect is going to be pulled and pushed against i wanted to tripod the end to keep it stable and strong, then a bracket to bolt the quick connect to as well as a location for the 6 wire quick connect that disconnects the trucks electrical system. both are hand with ample room to get the hand down for access.
glass beaded and ready for paint.
- Thread starter
- #491
there are two front bumpers for this unit. the snow plow winter bumper with lights and quick connect mount for the snow plow. the light weight summer bumper goes on in April and stays till first snow.
so there are 3 winches that need security and 2 bumpers that need to be able to be interchanged.
i could have used Bruce's idea of the lead BB and had considered that option ... back when i first had been designing the snow plow bumper ... but with the interchange twice a year and because PC would be damaged with the heat of melting the BB, it wasn't a viable option.
if we were going lock down the winches and the bumper then it just made sense to use the same bolts for all.
so there are 3 winches that need security and 2 bumpers that need to be able to be interchanged.
i could have used Bruce's idea of the lead BB and had considered that option ... back when i first had been designing the snow plow bumper ... but with the interchange twice a year and because PC would be damaged with the heat of melting the BB, it wasn't a viable option.
if we were going lock down the winches and the bumper then it just made sense to use the same bolts for all.
More sharp cable tie cures.. Check out the Excelite Shearcutter such as P/N 1178M.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #494
more wiring for the welder controls.
5 wires to the idle up, 4 wires to the alternator, 6 wire quick connect, 2 wires for welder amp control, 2 wires connecting the individual units, 2 grounds, 2 fused feed 7.5A and 50A, 2 X 14 gauge alternator to quick connect, 2 X 14 gauge from quick connect to isolator, 2 positve from the isolator to each battery, a 14 gauge ground from one battery to the other plus each battery to the frame and to the body, ignitor for isolator, each connection had AntiOx added plus shrink wrap (doubled up for the welder connections), cover, ties, tape, 'P' mounts were accessable, custom mount for everything to attach to.
allow for air box, battery box, air drier system, wiring to fuse box, turbo heat, factory wiring
and finally, try to make it neat in appearence when completed.
5 wires to the idle up, 4 wires to the alternator, 6 wire quick connect, 2 wires for welder amp control, 2 wires connecting the individual units, 2 grounds, 2 fused feed 7.5A and 50A, 2 X 14 gauge alternator to quick connect, 2 X 14 gauge from quick connect to isolator, 2 positve from the isolator to each battery, a 14 gauge ground from one battery to the other plus each battery to the frame and to the body, ignitor for isolator, each connection had AntiOx added plus shrink wrap (doubled up for the welder connections), cover, ties, tape, 'P' mounts were accessable, custom mount for everything to attach to.
allow for air box, battery box, air drier system, wiring to fuse box, turbo heat, factory wiring
and finally, try to make it neat in appearence when completed.
- Thread starter
- #497
a couple shots of the rear assembly ...
we still have the fuel cell and Jackall to make mounts for and the license plate illumination to install.
the custom rubber anti rattle, anti dent bumpers Ryan made up.
next weekend we should have the rest of the PC ready to be blasted and coated. ... ... if all goes well.
we still have the fuel cell and Jackall to make mounts for and the license plate illumination to install.
the custom rubber anti rattle, anti dent bumpers Ryan made up.
next weekend we should have the rest of the PC ready to be blasted and coated. ... ... if all goes well.
you think about adding a turbo blanket to reduce the heat in the compartment for all the electronics in there:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=448&osCsid=41b733af16d4d004c3273de21f2f95d8
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=449&osCsid=41b733af16d4d004c3273de21f2f95d8
I was thinking the other day, as Ive got some of the LED strips in the engine compartment to light it up, and I have them on a little switch mounted on the side of an auxillary fuse box, that I should have it wired instead to a hood switch as well, so they only come on when the hood is open and I dont forget to turn them off.
As you seem to have lots of lighting on that rig, are you doing anything similar for the engine compartment? I can see that illuminating the dials for the welder or on board air may be of use.
also, spiral wire (hydraulic hose) loom is nice for keeping wires bundled and looking clean(er), and is easy enough to add/remove and cut to length, though split loom or fiber wire loom look a bit better, but are harder to remove because you have to pull the wires and feed them back through.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=448&osCsid=41b733af16d4d004c3273de21f2f95d8
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=449&osCsid=41b733af16d4d004c3273de21f2f95d8
I was thinking the other day, as Ive got some of the LED strips in the engine compartment to light it up, and I have them on a little switch mounted on the side of an auxillary fuse box, that I should have it wired instead to a hood switch as well, so they only come on when the hood is open and I dont forget to turn them off.
As you seem to have lots of lighting on that rig, are you doing anything similar for the engine compartment? I can see that illuminating the dials for the welder or on board air may be of use.
also, spiral wire (hydraulic hose) loom is nice for keeping wires bundled and looking clean(er), and is easy enough to add/remove and cut to length, though split loom or fiber wire loom look a bit better, but are harder to remove because you have to pull the wires and feed them back through.
- Thread starter
- #500
funny you are recommending the spiral wrap. on Friday i asked Ryan what he thought of the wiring flow. he stood back and said "look a lot better with those cables covered with spiral wrap. i had not heard of the stuff before but we put a few feet on order.
i agree, covering the wires would look much cleaner and i can't see why the owner would need to uncover the large bundle. the wire size was recommended by Zena, my starter gent and on line. the connectors are all AntiOx and heat wrapped. so he should be fine for years to come.
thanks for the suggestion (and the confirmation of the suggestion)
appreciated.
today is Air bag day ... lets see if this can go smoother and easier.
i agree, covering the wires would look much cleaner and i can't see why the owner would need to uncover the large bundle. the wire size was recommended by Zena, my starter gent and on line. the connectors are all AntiOx and heat wrapped. so he should be fine for years to come.
thanks for the suggestion (and the confirmation of the suggestion)
appreciated.
today is Air bag day ... lets see if this can go smoother and easier.