Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
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81370-60010
LAMP ASSY, INSPECTION
Your Price: $41.11
Retail Price: $57.46
You Save: $16.35
LAMP ASSY, INSPECTION
| Part Description | Lamp Assy, Inspection |
| Manufacturer | Toyota. This genuine Toyota part is guaranteed by Toyota's factory warranty. |
Your Price: $41.11
Retail Price: $57.46
You Save: $16.35
I am now hunting for these.
- Thread starter
- #84
Yes, I thought about ordering from TPD, but I am hunting for the period correct (yes, I am being fussy/annoying with this) blue-ish ribbed bag and brass cage. New ones are a bit different - but I may be mistaken?
- Thread starter
- #85
AMP meter seems fine for a second and the goes hard right for a second and then flickers back and forth. Headlights brighten with the flicker along with fan speed going up.
Is this indicative of a VR dying?
Is this indicative of a VR dying?
Last edited:
- Joined
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- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Indicative of normal operation of a mechanical points regulator. It only has 2 operating states: off, or full field.
At 2000rpm this effect should be almost unnoticeable as it switches off & on mnay times per second, but at lower engine speeds can be very pronounced.
At 2000rpm this effect should be almost unnoticeable as it switches off & on mnay times per second, but at lower engine speeds can be very pronounced.
- Thread starter
- #87
Sounds good. I do have a spare VR, so I may swap out and see if that solves the voltage flicker. I have never had this happen before, and if I am approaching you at night, it would appear as if I am flashing my brights at you - nope just my wonky charging system. Goes from center needle to +30 like morse code. Hmmm....I should translate, maybe my cruiser is trying to tell me something.
-... . / ... ..- .-. . / - --- / -.. .-. .. -. -.- / -.-- --- ..- .-. / --- ...- .- .-.. - .. -. .
Wow where did you get that?
- Thread starter
- #91
Seller on mud! Along with finding a pristine and correct tool kit 
I'm trying to re-smog and get her mechanically sound and straight - and then I'll repair the rust and cut-out quarters.
Time is what I am short on right now!
Also a couple of questions
1. I wish I could post an 8 second video on the flickering AMP meter - I need some tips on what that might be or whats causing it. It is annoying, especially at night when my headlights are pulsating like a UFO.
2. My brakes are pulling to the right, dangerously if I have to stomp on them. The proportioning valve is for front to rear, correct? The left/right is not controlled. Where to start? Bleed/new fluid? Or is there something else to investigate? There is no grinding or obvious pad wear/etc.. But if I have to stomp on the brakes it will lock up the front right.
Happy Friday!
I'm trying to re-smog and get her mechanically sound and straight - and then I'll repair the rust and cut-out quarters.
Time is what I am short on right now!
Also a couple of questions
1. I wish I could post an 8 second video on the flickering AMP meter - I need some tips on what that might be or whats causing it. It is annoying, especially at night when my headlights are pulsating like a UFO.
2. My brakes are pulling to the right, dangerously if I have to stomp on them. The proportioning valve is for front to rear, correct? The left/right is not controlled. Where to start? Bleed/new fluid? Or is there something else to investigate? There is no grinding or obvious pad wear/etc.. But if I have to stomp on the brakes it will lock up the front right.
Happy Friday!
1. You can link youtube videos into your post. I can't remember because I watch several build threads, did you run LED headlights off the battery or are you running the OE circuit?
2. The proportioning valve is for front to rear. Typically a left or right pull from the brakes is a result or wear or damage. You said no grinding or obvious pad wear. I'm going to assume that means there is adequate pad thickness left? Can you observe uneven wear on the rotors? Do you feel any pulsing when braking? What is the condition of the soft brake lines? When was the last time you did a brake job, and did you notice any sticky pistons?
Assuming the rotors are okay, I would just get a new set of pads because they're cheap and changing them means taking things apart and looking at it. Pay attention for frozen pistons in the left caliper. I replaced a caliper on my 40 recently and they aren't terribly pricey.
2. The proportioning valve is for front to rear. Typically a left or right pull from the brakes is a result or wear or damage. You said no grinding or obvious pad wear. I'm going to assume that means there is adequate pad thickness left? Can you observe uneven wear on the rotors? Do you feel any pulsing when braking? What is the condition of the soft brake lines? When was the last time you did a brake job, and did you notice any sticky pistons?
Assuming the rotors are okay, I would just get a new set of pads because they're cheap and changing them means taking things apart and looking at it. Pay attention for frozen pistons in the left caliper. I replaced a caliper on my 40 recently and they aren't terribly pricey.
- Thread starter
- #93
Thank you Pigmony - I'll order some pads (nice to have a spare set, even if not needed) and inspect possibly this weekend, if pads are available locally. A friend of mine also suggested sticky pistons - which I have never experienced, I guess I've been lucky!?
- Thread starter
- #95
I took apart the VR, inspected. It all looks clean, no wear or sticking issues.
I reassembled and reinstalled. Unless the issue is internal to that coil or something.
I also inspected all connections on the harness and to/from the alternator and soldered any crimp or butt connections.
I noticed after I cleaned/re-installed, it has a smoother idle (likely just Sam Adams convincing me at that point).
However, the AMP needle really only bounces at idle or sitting at a red light, that's when it gets wonky and lights and fan speed bounce all over, however at rpm's its smooth.
Last question (for today). I know the crossover in hard tops and the seat belt mounts (Thank you SteveH) changed in 76/77 from the hard top to the roll bar. Did the mounts on the hard top remain? Do I have an earlier hard top (75/76) installed on my 01/78 cruiser? Just curious.
I reassembled and reinstalled. Unless the issue is internal to that coil or something.
I also inspected all connections on the harness and to/from the alternator and soldered any crimp or butt connections.
I noticed after I cleaned/re-installed, it has a smoother idle (likely just Sam Adams convincing me at that point).
However, the AMP needle really only bounces at idle or sitting at a red light, that's when it gets wonky and lights and fan speed bounce all over, however at rpm's its smooth.
Last question (for today). I know the crossover in hard tops and the seat belt mounts (Thank you SteveH) changed in 76/77 from the hard top to the roll bar. Did the mounts on the hard top remain? Do I have an earlier hard top (75/76) installed on my 01/78 cruiser? Just curious.
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- Thread starter
- #96
In my photo above. There is a single wire (idle solenoid wire) in a loom going all the way across the engine bay to the carb.
What is/was the stock routing of this wire? If I recall from previous projects, the wire passed under the air cleaner. Can someone verify the grouping/routing of that wire? It looks so wonky going across the firewall.
Thank you
What is/was the stock routing of this wire? If I recall from previous projects, the wire passed under the air cleaner. Can someone verify the grouping/routing of that wire? It looks so wonky going across the firewall.
Thank you
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On a 78, the wire to ICS comes out of the driver fender harness, along with the wire to manifold temp sensor and wire to brake pressure switches.
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- #99
I have a light blue wire that I fits but I have to pull on it to reach. Labeled Lb. other than carb fan and VSV plug I have nothing else over there, but the wire the PO sent from the coil.
- Thread starter
- #100
I’m still trying to figure out why things are the way they are. I bought a cooling fan computer and emissions control for a 78. Nothing under my dash or mount points look like they can accommodate these.
