Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (1 Viewer)

[EWheeler]

What is your trick to installing hardware without leaving tool marks? This is one of the biggest mysteries to me on how meticulous restorations are done. I can't touch a piece of hardware without leaving marks, similar to how I can't spend two minutes in my garage without getting some kind of dirt/grease on me. For instance, your driveshaft bolts. I'm assuming they are properly torqued? I'm looking, trying to find witness marks on your hardware, and I can't find them! (thats a compliment)

 

[V8FJ4078]

@V8FJ4078 I've been hearing that a lot lately, that shops can't mix a single stage because they don't have the colors to mix. However with base coat, they do.

I hope this helps:

Thank you! I used that other code 82283.
Hoping to spray it soon! We will see how it looks!

 

[Wildcat Walker]

@EWheeler if you have clean tools, that's half the battle. Having tools that aren't worn out is another big part. Don't use 12pt sockets on 6pt bolts. You can put masking tape over bolt heads when tightening if its something higher torque. You can also notice more wear if you use a bolt more than once. Those Toyota spring washers are no joke, if you have to remove one you've just put on, somethings gettign scratched, period.

 

[dmaddox]

@EWheeler thank you for the compliment. Even as I work to build through this and am cleaning/restoring pieces. I review the pictures and go-back to fix stuff. Battery tray is back off for better prep. It looked bad.

Regarding hardware - first, I use a non-marring socket set when using new hardware. I remove old with little care as its usually rusted/marred anyway. But I use a non-marring socket set. Even for lug nuts, I use a plastic lined socket. Call me crazy - but every time I torque lug nuts/hardware, they look perfect.
My lug socket: PLASTIC LINED 3/4" LUG NUT SOCKET | mysite - https://www.innov8racing.com/product-page/plastic-lined-3-4-lug-nut-socket
It has a plastic sleeve inside it.

Also helpful. You guys all probably already know, but when torquing down hardware, I use a dab of blue lock tight, and FULL engagement of the socket (especially the non marring and/or plastic lined sockets. If you are half on the nut (minds out of the gutter) or not fully engaged, you risk marring it. So, sink the socket fully on, use the correct sizes (not 1/2" on a 13mm for example) and you'll be good to go! Also as @Wildcat Walker said, don't use 12pt on a 6pt nut/bolt.

Honestly, that's the fun stuff. It also pays to use quality hardware, not the soft "whatever" the hardware store carries that you can likely score with your fingernail.

I hope that helps!

 

[waiting for time]

I like to use the sockets with the round edges, they engage on the flat side of the hex that way the edges stay fresh.

 

[V8FJ4078]

@V8FJ4078 I've been hearing that a lot lately, that shops can't mix a single stage because they don't have the colors to mix. However with base coat, they do.

I hope this helps:
View attachment 3068455View attachment 3068456

Thanks this looks like the same I was able to get in a single stage. Thanks for sharing the color code!!

 

[dmaddox]

@V8FJ4078 looks beautiful! Thank you for sharing.

Based on some feedback, I ordered a few parts from Toyota.

First, these are still available:

Thank you for the tip, friend! Instead of wire wheeling and painting the pitted one I had, I was able to install a fresh one from Toyota.

While I also realize that many of the hoses that Toyota charges $$$ for, is...in fact, just heater line. I am, however, using the rule of 1. New Toyota 2. NOS Toyota, 3. Good used 4. Reputable after market and 5. restore an old oem part - as a priority list when acquiring parts.

This section of hose goes from the union pictured above, to the lower hard line that is secured to the side cover.

Last, the pads that go between the battery tray and the battery stand. (Thank you for the tip). They are no longer available from Toyota, but are nearly the same as the radiator support pads.

So, these guys will go in between the battery tray and stand. Cool.

Last, I do have to plug in here, how annoying it is to restore FJ40's as opposed to other classic vehicles. The number of body-colored pieces is staggering. To add to the complexity and difficulty, none are easy to wet sand, prep and spray. Odd angles, brackets with 900 sides to them. So, where else to bellyache about this!? Here are just a few of the pieces.

Each piece is now epoxy primed, will need to be wet sanded, primed again, sanded again and then base...clear and so on. I know I am preaching to the choir again, but people don't realize the hours it takes to do it right so that each piece looks good.

Slowly plugging along!

 

[V8FJ4078]

Just painted all my small parts yesterday!
Arms hurt from spraying all the angles and holding them up higher to spray under.

 

[V8FJ4078]

And bigger parts you always want to come out great!

 

[PabloCruise]

Strong work, as always!!!

 

[dmaddox]

@V8FJ4078 Great photos - thank you for sharing. I've been taking a small break from body work to work on fuel system and wiring harness. But, I am right there with you. There's a lot to do, and those little bits are such a pain.

 

[dmaddox]

Working on the fuel system - and the untimely event that @GA Architect is going through with his fuel smell is providing me with answers on how to route this stuff. I can't help but wonder if these expensive lines that are listed on Toyota's parts list is simply unlabeled soft fuel line. (ie. 95333-08100). Several lines (5-6 of them) are all 45 bucks or more.

Hard line clamps:

Soft line clamps:

Next to pass through here will be the wiring harness. Just a quick update to keep the thread alive. SLOWLY, but surely, the restoration is coming together.

 

[Broski]

It’s all in the details and your hitting them all.

Very nice work, Beautiful Rig !!

 

[dmaddox]

Working on wrapping up the front end, with steering pieces and damper. I'm also working on trying to clean up and repaint (satin black epoxy) the bumper gussets and frame horns as well as the running board supports. I realize the frame horns were originally riveted on, I may address that later with carriage bolts or similar...TBD. For now, I'll just use regular 12mm bolts.

The amount of paint, undercoating, filler and whatever else built up on the frame pieces is crazy. After cleaning them all up with the wire wheel, I re-painted them.

Most use OME dampers, but I had this one sitting on the shelf, still available from Toyota.

 

[PabloCruise]

Hey Dallas, if you get a chance, could you tell me the extended and collapsed measurements on that damper?

 

[dmaddox]

Dang! Wish we could have measured before installation. I don't think turning full left/right will give an accurate reading. We'd have to have someone measure that has one off of the vehicle.

 

[dmaddox]

Prepping the rest of the panels for primer and paint. The "nose" for the hood clamps were quite worn. A quick weld to add material and file it smooth:

 

[V8FJ4078]

Never thought to weld on to the catch like that! What a great idea!
Learn something new here everyday!

 

[Green Bean]

A little piece of rubber hose on the end of the hook latch seems to work well for protecting the finish on the catch and preventing vibration.

 

[dmaddox]

Great tip, @Green Bean - I will likely do that with a small piece of clear tube. It wouldn't be obvious at all and protect the latch and hook.