1969 FJ55 Build Thread

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onemanarmy said:
you will still use the factory seat risers/mounts?
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I believe that refers to the risers that are part of the floor plan? If so, that's the plan, but that could change if need to allow for proper ride height on the seat and clearance for the rear heater. I won't know for sure until I get the seats in place and see how it looks and feels. Based on pics from Ron's build, I think it will work out
 
onemanarmy said:
Make sure to get some pics. I built a seat frame out of 1" square tube and bolted my junkyard seats to it, then bolted the frame to the factory seat risers. It works out ok, but is a little high. I'm contemplating trying to lower the seats some.
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Would you have to modified the risers? I'm thinking with the way I plan to mount the seats, I won't have much of a way to lower them and still use the risers
 
I had to raise mine about 1 1/2" above stock riser to clear the tranny tunnel. It sits high but I am a small guy so its perfect for me.
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Agreed, nice carpet. I still have a little to go before making a decision on the seat mounting, but i'll keep this in mind. I'm thinking I'll probably go ahead and cut out the risers and have something fabbed to try to get a good seat height and still clear the rear heater.

I don't know if i've mentioned this, but my pig is actually at a shop in another city, so I don't get to see her as often as I'd like. Thankfully I can still be there in under 20 minutes. I made it out tonight to look at the risers and the dash and had forgotten about the ridge along the edges of the inside of the roof to hide cabling. I was pretty excited as I now think I'm going to have an overhead switch panel to solve a real estate issue i'm having with my dash :D
 
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Looks like the frame will finally be getting some love this week. My weldor will be swapping on the 60 axles and doing the spring over, so any advice would certainly be well received!
 
Alright, my pig gets sprung over this week and I wanted to get as much feedback as I can.

The plan is a cut and turn using a Ruffstuff SOA kit
14-15 degree pinion angle
4-5 degree caster
Ruffstuff traction bar
4x4 labs high steer
staying with the stock springs, but adding a leaf
extending brake lines and sway bar links

Also, I've read lots of discussion regarding the front axle pinion angle, but nothing on the rear. Does the rear pinion angle need to be addressed as well (beyond just the traction bars)?
 
Rear axle flange needs to be parallel to t-case flange as well, unless you want to run double cardon joint in the shaft. I think people talk about the front so much b/c when you are welding spring mounts on you can set pinion angle, but that will mess w/ caster angle.
 
Will they use a jig to check your front end after they cut and turn the knuckle balls?
Why so much pinion angle?
 
Might think about setting the front at 15 and welding the perches then doing the cut and turn when you have full weight on the front end... Leave the perches not welded in the rear then adjust and weld them when you get full weight on them. Then you will not be guessing:) project looks great!:)
 
J Mack said:
Will they use a jig to check your front end after they cut and turn the knuckle balls?
Why so much pinion angle?
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JMack, 14-15 degrees seems to be what most consider appropriate for a spring over. As for the use of a jig, I do not know

PabloCruise said:
Rear axle flange needs to be parallel to t-case flange as well, unless you want to run double cardon joint in the shaft. I think people talk about the front so much b/c when you are welding spring mounts on you can set pinion angle, but that will mess w/ caster angle.
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Thanks Pablo. So with the front you are concerned about the pinion angle, but the rear you just have make sure the flanges are parallel. I realize how rudimentary that question is, but I want to make sure i'm having this done right.

SAWTOOTH 55 LC said:
Might think about setting the front at 15 and welding the perches then doing the cut and turn when you have full weight on the front end... Leave the perches not welded in the rear then adjust and weld them when you get full weight on them. Then you will not be guessing:) project looks great!:)
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Thanks Sawtooth, I'll talk with the weldor about that tonight

I'm going to summerize what I want the weldor to do. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm going to say something stupid, so please feel free to speak up

So:
  • Cut off the old perches etc from 60 axles
  • Place perches with front pinion angle of 14-15 degrees
  • The turn is going to screw up my castor so the knuckles will need to be cut and turned to 4-5 degrees positive caster. This should be done with weight on the front axles
  • Rebuild knuckles
  • Rear axle flange just needs to be parallel to the tcase flange
  • Add a leaf to stock leaf springs
  • High steer
  • traction bar
  • Extended brake lines and sway bar links
Is that the general gist of it?
Am I missing anything?
Wheres a good place to get a rebuild kit for the knuckles?

Any other suggestions to do as part of the SOA?
I know the incessant questions are annoying, this part of the rebuild just has me a bit worried :confused:
 
Here's a problem I had, I set the motor at @ 4 degrees incline and that pointed the output flange on a downward slope. So, there's no way to run the pinion parallel. I had to use a CV joint, on the rear. You would need to check what degree the trans. flange is, in order to set the rear pinion. Some say that with a long driveshaft, you can fudge alittle on the degree thing. I don't know for sure.

I hope that all made some sense.
 
Yes, Ron, that makes perfect sense, but I talked with my builder tonight and he's not going to put any incline on the engine, so it shouldn't be a problem
 
Alright, just got back from sitting down with Jessi, and I feel much better. Sorry for the somewhat feverish posts today. I think everything is squared away and If i can find a add in leaf locally, he should be able to get quite a bit accomplished this week. If not, then it'll be a matter of me finding a leaf to add.
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Ordered a lot of parts this week and they started trickling in. The add a leafs came in quicker than expected, so the spring over may actually get completed over the weekend.
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Restomod air unit came in too, though I'm still a little ways from being ready for it.
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