Here’s a gas cap for you......
FUEL CAP FJ40 FJ45 Toyota landcruiser Genuine Part Number New ORIGINAL stock | eBay
FUEL CAP FJ40 FJ45 Toyota landcruiser Genuine Part Number New ORIGINAL stock | eBay
Build 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"
- Thread starter middlecalf
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Well given this it might be a bit high...
“key not working, stuck... because the key is not for that fuel cap. but its can use if remove the plate key in cylinder key (i can do that)”
China. egad
“key not working, stuck... because the key is not for that fuel cap. but its can use if remove the plate key in cylinder key (i can do that)”
China. egad
- Thread starter
- #23
Making progress on hunting down stuff. Getting great help from John and Georg. (Thanks Gents!) Looks like first principle deviation from stock (OEM, original, whatever lol) is I’m going to the later three-on-the-tree shift linkage (this is the driver for change), transmission and transfer case. The tranny has a broken flange and it was a later one anyhow even though it wouldn’t have mated to the remnants of the early shift linkage. Early transmissions are a challenge as well.
Still striking out on a driver’s side bug catcher window.
Oh yeah, that motor thing too. Springtime, maybe. Cheers, thanks for looking.
Paul
Oh yeah, that motor thing too. Springtime, maybe. Cheers, thanks for looking.
Paul
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok, now for something completely different ... cheesy throwback to Python, I know.
What brand are these? Can’t find a hole where I’d expect the second hole to be for a cruiser bracket. Maybe plugged, but if so why not the top hole as well? Hope these aren’t AMC lol.
Edit: maybe these are windshield hold down clamps?
Who/used Dietz lights? And why am I stuck with them? Quit it OP’s. Yeah, I’m talking to me. “OEM” replacements in hand. I think that’s become my favorite acronym.
Good news, I think the fuel tank is usable. I’m just into my second glass of the fine whisky that was in it. What? That’s what that sweet brown liquid is, isn’t it? Uh oh.
Think that red is the original paint?
What brand are these? Can’t find a hole where I’d expect the second hole to be for a cruiser bracket. Maybe plugged, but if so why not the top hole as well? Hope these aren’t AMC lol.
Edit: maybe these are windshield hold down clamps?
Who/used Dietz lights? And why am I stuck with them? Quit it OP’s. Yeah, I’m talking to me. “OEM” replacements in hand. I think that’s become my favorite acronym.
Good news, I think the fuel tank is usable. I’m just into my second glass of the fine whisky that was in it. What? That’s what that sweet brown liquid is, isn’t it? Uh oh.
Think that red is the original paint?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #26
Hey w45 - thanks. Jeep. Uh oh. Maybe I need to think about a super lift and 35x17.5x12.5 whatever's so it will fit in completely.
I'll need the window hardware, not sure of sources. Paul (3_puppies) has a driver's side window (but no hardware), working on that.
The engine stuff will wait until I pull the engine to see if it's savable (salvageable?). Actually in a sense everything needs to wait, but they are starting the framing on the shop today!!
So I'm technically in "stockpile mode." I have a dual offenhauser carb thingy setup. Anyone know why that would be on here? I'm thinking I'd double my gas mileage by eliminating one carb, lol. Here's a pic of the engine debacle (I'll call it a motor once it gets running):
Don't worry, OEM collectors. Those clutch and brake MC's are trash, the tin cups are just set on there for effect. I'll trade that custom dually air intake hackjob (er, work of wonder) for a real single air intake (paper filter) one. Straight across even
. Do the later paper ones work with the F engines?
I'll need the window hardware, not sure of sources. Paul (3_puppies) has a driver's side window (but no hardware), working on that.
The engine stuff will wait until I pull the engine to see if it's savable (salvageable?). Actually in a sense everything needs to wait, but they are starting the framing on the shop today!!
So I'm technically in "stockpile mode." I have a dual offenhauser carb thingy setup. Anyone know why that would be on here? I'm thinking I'd double my gas mileage by eliminating one carb, lol. Here's a pic of the engine debacle (I'll call it a motor once it gets running):Don't worry, OEM collectors. Those clutch and brake MC's are trash, the tin cups are just set on there for effect. I'll trade that custom dually air intake hackjob (er, work of wonder) for a real single air intake (paper filter) one. Straight across even
. Do the later paper ones work with the F engines?
- Thread starter
- #27
In a galaxy, far far away, ....
Ok I’ve got to quit with the cheesy movie references lol. And this isn’t even a real Darth Vader light, I guess another version of an Indian motorcycle dash lamp, but maybe a bit more vintage based on eBay search. It has a built in switch. It might fill one of the smaller holes in my relatively clean dash. Or it might not.
Any ideas what this floor switch or ??? might be for (left one, I know the right one is the dimmer)? There’s nothing on the other side except the ends of sheet metal screws, no wires even.
Ok I’ve got to quit with the cheesy movie references lol. And this isn’t even a real Darth Vader light, I guess another version of an Indian motorcycle dash lamp, but maybe a bit more vintage based on eBay search. It has a built in switch. It might fill one of the smaller holes in my relatively clean dash. Or it might not.
Any ideas what this floor switch or ??? might be for (left one, I know the right one is the dimmer)? There’s nothing on the other side except the ends of sheet metal screws, no wires even.
Is there a small hose attached to it? Might be a pump for windshield squirters?
- Thread starter
- #29
John you may be right. No hose, but there are window squirters in the cowl. I’m assuming these are not stock, are they?
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2011
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 521
Did Google & found this
Instrument Panel Lights for Sale / Page #8 of / Find or Sell Auto parts
http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/83/2185983/001.jpg
Cheers Peter
- Thread starter
- #31
How ‘bout some seats, eh?
Here’s what I got. First, passenger side. Looks like what might be original for this rig, legs certainly fit hold down positions on floor and were in fact bolted down, but with newer bolts lol. Anyway, is this a correct base? And what and how we’re these covered? I did my ‘65s with SOR kit but different looking bases (see below). Anyway, from pics of same vintage rigs it looks like some sort of solid base (board) with a flat pad with cover that sits on those “springs” and the cover wraps around frame and is attached there? Obviously need “springs” for the back.
Edit: if this is correct vintage, it would have the ribbed back plate, correct? And why would someone pilfer just the back plate with the rest of the frame in tact? Egad, the pilfering from this rig is driving me $&#@&%+++++++++++ NUTS!
Here’s the drivers side seat. Based on passenger seat, and my guessing about it, this isn’t a correct vintage? It fits and has the lockdown tabs for the latches on the tool box (which are intact). But this looks like what I redid on my ‘65, using foam and cover kit from SOR. A concern on using this (after treating rust, replacing missing back panel and using an SOR kit) is that it might be too tall/thick since this rig being a fix top has less space - hence maybe why the seats would be literally more bench like? Oh, and this has the slider adjuster (a bit frozen from rust) which isn’t really necessary for this rig unless I were to let my 3 year old nephew drive it.
Edit: if I can’t find a vintage original (whatever that is) I think I’ll hack this one close to original, by getting rid of springs and going to thin pad kind I see in the FJ25 stock seats. Yeah, finally something I can hack the crap out of to take my frustrations out on and yet still use lol!
I’m well on my way of acquiring my PhD in Guessing.
Here’s what I got. First, passenger side. Looks like what might be original for this rig, legs certainly fit hold down positions on floor and were in fact bolted down, but with newer bolts lol. Anyway, is this a correct base? And what and how we’re these covered? I did my ‘65s with SOR kit but different looking bases (see below). Anyway, from pics of same vintage rigs it looks like some sort of solid base (board) with a flat pad with cover that sits on those “springs” and the cover wraps around frame and is attached there? Obviously need “springs” for the back.
Edit: if this is correct vintage, it would have the ribbed back plate, correct? And why would someone pilfer just the back plate with the rest of the frame in tact? Egad, the pilfering from this rig is driving me $&#@&%+++++++++++ NUTS!
Here’s the drivers side seat. Based on passenger seat, and my guessing about it, this isn’t a correct vintage? It fits and has the lockdown tabs for the latches on the tool box (which are intact). But this looks like what I redid on my ‘65, using foam and cover kit from SOR. A concern on using this (after treating rust, replacing missing back panel and using an SOR kit) is that it might be too tall/thick since this rig being a fix top has less space - hence maybe why the seats would be literally more bench like? Oh, and this has the slider adjuster (a bit frozen from rust) which isn’t really necessary for this rig unless I were to let my 3 year old nephew drive it.
Edit: if I can’t find a vintage original (whatever that is) I think I’ll hack this one close to original, by getting rid of springs and going to thin pad kind I see in the FJ25 stock seats. Yeah, finally something I can hack the crap out of to take my frustrations out on and yet still use lol!
I’m well on my way of acquiring my PhD in Guessing.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #32
No seat belts or seat belt attachments. Guess I’ll have to drill some holes to get this licensed. Also curious about those footman-like loops.
Last edited:
Why would you need to have seatbelts ? I believe in most states if the vehicle never had them from manufacture, you do not have to be pushed to have them. A friend of mine has a 1957 Chevy and no seatbelts were ever there so Arizona says that is ok.
- Thread starter
- #34
Not sure actually on law, I’ll need to check. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #35
Remembered now what those footman-like loops are for - holding the back of the tool box lid in place, duh!
And looking at the spacing for the lock down clamps for the drivers seat definitely indicates the seat I have is not for this rig. I haven’t seen a picture or parts book diagram yet that shows a driver’s seat that has the tilt tabs in the rear of the frame and lock down tabs in the front that are that narrowly spaced.
And looking at the spacing for the lock down clamps for the drivers seat definitely indicates the seat I have is not for this rig. I haven’t seen a picture or parts book diagram yet that shows a driver’s seat that has the tilt tabs in the rear of the frame and lock down tabs in the front that are that narrowly spaced.
- Thread starter
- #36
Shop is getting there! Soon...
Cruiser is sitting patiently waiting for me to get off my backside and start building. I haven’t given it any hints that it’s getting its backside stripped before it gets dressed up. Still working on those alternatives. In the mean time I’m spending an inordinate amount of time in my “office” researching (mud reading!) and spending money. At least the fire is warm.
Cruiser is sitting patiently waiting for me to get off my backside and start building. I haven’t given it any hints that it’s getting its backside stripped before it gets dressed up. Still working on those alternatives. In the mean time I’m spending an inordinate amount of time in my “office” researching (mud reading!) and spending money. At least the fire is warm.
- Thread starter
- #37
So st some point I want to crank the engine to verify it isn’t frozen. I’ll use miracle oil trick, but I don’t want to use the starter, just hand crank. What can I use to crank on the front crank? Do I need to get a hand crank tool if those are even around?
Ive seen 1/2" rebar used to weld into a T. My buddy even filed one down to fit in a 3/4" drill though that was a similar tractor application.
Curious if one straight piece of bar will grab both lugs there and give enough room for leverage.
This is just to turn it over and around, not for ignition right?
Curious if one straight piece of bar will grab both lugs there and give enough room for leverage.
This is just to turn it over and around, not for ignition right?
- Thread starter
- #39
Yeah just turn it some to check overall movement of everything, not starting (I like my arms and shoulders and wrists just as they are lol).
It certainly would not be the end of the world if that motor was not good. It would be a great excuse to put some fresh horses under there.
When my 68 was frozen I pulled it and put a beautiful new 2F in it with a 4 speed and split case.
When my 68 was frozen I pulled it and put a beautiful new 2F in it with a 4 speed and split case.