I don't envy that task at all. I need to do the equivalent on my 40 and have been in no rush to do so (even though it looks way easier).
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- #482
Something I've wanted to try since I bought the truck.
In my not particularly humble opinion, there's too much air aimed at the side windows and not enough at the drivers feet.
Hopefully this means warm feet even in defrost mode, which is where I usually leave it set.
Be better if I found some black plastic already curved, but the s***ty old tote lid will have to do for this experiment.
Seems to only barely reduce the flow to side window, and blows pretty hard at the feet. I'm ok with that.
In my not particularly humble opinion, there's too much air aimed at the side windows and not enough at the drivers feet.
Hopefully this means warm feet even in defrost mode, which is where I usually leave it set.
Be better if I found some black plastic already curved, but the s***ty old tote lid will have to do for this experiment.
Seems to only barely reduce the flow to side window, and blows pretty hard at the feet. I'm ok with that.
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Do you have the distribution duct right in front of the shifter that’s located on the bottom
of the heater? My feet get too hot from mine. Didn’t you just do the heater core itself?
of the heater? My feet get too hot from mine. Didn’t you just do the heater core itself?
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- #484
That silly little piece of plastic doesn't do much. Side vents have way more air than they need compared to the little 3/4" holes that are supposed to keep feet warm.
Your heater looks funny, not like mine.
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- #486
83 bj60 I think? There's this haywire snorkel thing that goes up and over to blow air down. It's never been much use. Probably would be better to just remove it, but that wouldn't really fix the root issue.
Went out for a bit yesterday, warm air on feet while in defrost mode, which I previously could not do.
I'm usually in defrost mode for most of my commute trying to get the windows clear.
Went out for a bit yesterday, warm air on feet while in defrost mode, which I previously could not do.
I'm usually in defrost mode for most of my commute trying to get the windows clear.
- Thread starter
- #487
Been a while since I worked on a cruiser frame, and felt the unbridled joy of removing toyota frame rivets.
Rear frame inners. Glad I didn't wait another year. They were plenty ****ed.
Metal shop quoted me 90 bucks for a 4' piece of 3/16" steel bent into the right dimensions for the channel. I can live with that, beats spending hours cutting and welding to get something to the right dimensions. Hoping they call today or tomorrow that it's ready.
I'll have a few things on the shopping list when I go out, like some exhaust tubing...that bit you see is the GOOD part of the tailpipe
I have a couple weeks off, so I'm aiming to knock a bunch of things off the list, Got these to put in that've been sitting on the bench for a year along with some new bushings.
Seeing as yesterday was fairly brutal getting those inner frame channels out, I may not do the other end of the bushings today due to somewhat achy girly parts.
Gonna have a go at putting the new brake kit I bought a year ago into the winch. Which might turn out to be the worse job
Maybe even wire it up again...(crazytalk)
Rear frame inners. Glad I didn't wait another year. They were plenty ****ed.
Metal shop quoted me 90 bucks for a 4' piece of 3/16" steel bent into the right dimensions for the channel. I can live with that, beats spending hours cutting and welding to get something to the right dimensions. Hoping they call today or tomorrow that it's ready.
I'll have a few things on the shopping list when I go out, like some exhaust tubing...that bit you see is the GOOD part of the tailpipe
I have a couple weeks off, so I'm aiming to knock a bunch of things off the list, Got these to put in that've been sitting on the bench for a year along with some new bushings.
Seeing as yesterday was fairly brutal getting those inner frame channels out, I may not do the other end of the bushings today due to somewhat achy girly parts.
Gonna have a go at putting the new brake kit I bought a year ago into the winch. Which might turn out to be the worse job
Maybe even wire it up again...(crazytalk)
- Thread starter
- #488
Fyi, if you think you're going to refresh the brake on your winch with it on the truck...
Getting the outer brake cover plate off required many many heat cycles, a press until it finally came loose with a sound like a gunshot.
Safe to say, it was stuck
(This was flat before the press had it's way with it)
Fortunately I had a spare...
Anyways, it's back together. Wiring might have to wait for next year. That was all a bit much.
Getting the outer brake cover plate off required many many heat cycles, a press until it finally came loose with a sound like a gunshot.
Safe to say, it was stuck
(This was flat before the press had it's way with it)
Fortunately I had a spare...
Anyways, it's back together. Wiring might have to wait for next year. That was all a bit much.
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- #489
Picked this up on friday, but there was a guitar jam saturday night, and I didn't feel like beating up my hands any more before that.
Reminded me of ye olden times when I would occasionally caulk old wooden boats. You swing this weird looking mallet at your hand holding an iron, to drive the oakum into the seams.
You swing the mallet thousands of times a day, what's a good miss percentage? 1% would be considered pretty damn accurate I'd think, but that still means you're smashing your hand with a mallet 50 times a day. Then you get tired, start missing more, but by that point your hand is kinda numb so it doesn't hurt as much.
Went to open a can of chili for lunch after doing that for a few weeks (70' boat) , I was holding the can opener, looking at my hand but the signal to twist the knob wasn't making it to the hand. Simply could not make my hand turn the knob....and that'd be about when I found myself a different occupation.
I think the new piece should be a bit stronger than what was in there...
They're in and the shackle hangers are bolted in with some toyota bolts I had that were the right size. I ordered good fasteners, but the ****ing idiots didn't actually order them. I called 2 days after they were supposed to have called me , " oh, it didn't meet the minimum order so we didn't order them"
That would have been good info when I was standing there.
Sign on the counter says "minimum $10", and I was definitely over that, so this was some sortof internal bull**** they neglected to mention.
So anyways, no mad panic. I could put SS bolts in the smaller holes, but I bet half of them would gaul when I went to take them out. So I'll just leave it till the bolts show.
Got new spring bushings in all around, so the old bitch is driveable again if I really need to, but I'm not back to work till friday, so I have a few other things I'd like to get to while the truck is in the shop and dry.
Did this as well.
Emu's fix for this design flaw is to squish them oval then press back in. I did that a couple years ago to one side of the truck, and they were actually still tight, but ****it. I had the spark makers handy.
Part of my reason for tacking the sleeves in, is I think it'll mean that bushings OTHER than emus overpriced yellow ones will work.
These black poly ones, enough for the whole truck cost about half of one package of emu bushings. ( enough for one corner)
We'll see. Shoulder is 5mm smaller than the emu ones. At the very least the frame end ones won't matter.
Reminded me of ye olden times when I would occasionally caulk old wooden boats. You swing this weird looking mallet at your hand holding an iron, to drive the oakum into the seams.
You swing the mallet thousands of times a day, what's a good miss percentage? 1% would be considered pretty damn accurate I'd think, but that still means you're smashing your hand with a mallet 50 times a day. Then you get tired, start missing more, but by that point your hand is kinda numb so it doesn't hurt as much.
Went to open a can of chili for lunch after doing that for a few weeks (70' boat) , I was holding the can opener, looking at my hand but the signal to twist the knob wasn't making it to the hand. Simply could not make my hand turn the knob....and that'd be about when I found myself a different occupation.
I think the new piece should be a bit stronger than what was in there...
They're in and the shackle hangers are bolted in with some toyota bolts I had that were the right size. I ordered good fasteners, but the ****ing idiots didn't actually order them. I called 2 days after they were supposed to have called me , " oh, it didn't meet the minimum order so we didn't order them"
That would have been good info when I was standing there.
Sign on the counter says "minimum $10", and I was definitely over that, so this was some sortof internal bull**** they neglected to mention. So anyways, no mad panic. I could put SS bolts in the smaller holes, but I bet half of them would gaul when I went to take them out. So I'll just leave it till the bolts show.
Got new spring bushings in all around, so the old bitch is driveable again if I really need to, but I'm not back to work till friday, so I have a few other things I'd like to get to while the truck is in the shop and dry.
Did this as well.
Emu's fix for this design flaw is to squish them oval then press back in. I did that a couple years ago to one side of the truck, and they were actually still tight, but ****it. I had the spark makers handy.
Part of my reason for tacking the sleeves in, is I think it'll mean that bushings OTHER than emus overpriced yellow ones will work.
These black poly ones, enough for the whole truck cost about half of one package of emu bushings. ( enough for one corner)
We'll see. Shoulder is 5mm smaller than the emu ones. At the very least the frame end ones won't matter.
If those old yellow ones are really old, they crumble like old goat cheese. Black ones probably better.
- Thread starter
- #491
Nah, only a couple years. Sleeves were loose on a couple eyes so I had lots of clunks.
I just object to them being 70 bucks a corner when the black ones were 50 for the whole truck.
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
nice update here. So does tacking the inner sleeves keep the spring from slapping side to side? I have a few that slide around. Also, I thought the bushing collars kept any play from occurring with side movement. Mine are 6-7 years old and have pretty large gaps between the shackle halves. Figured it was due to my bushings were wearing.
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- #493
Yeah that's the idea. When the sleeve is loose, it stays put in the middle, but the spring eye knocks the shoulder off the bushings pretty quickly, and then it can slop back and forth.
Emu says to squeeze the sleeves oval, then press back in.
Did seem to work on the side I did that to a couple years ago, but these black bushings having a smaller shoulder I wanted to make sure the ****ers stayed put lol.
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- #494
When you want to mess with engine mounts but don't want to dig out the engine hoist or take the hood off...
Floor Jack?
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- #496
This was easy and no risk of finding the weak spot in a wafer thin crazy expensive oil pan.
Interesting... I have a bit of clunking when I turn and fairly new ome springs.. I guess a couple of years old... Guess I should check for this too
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- #498
It's pretty annoying, and seems to happen to most of them. I don't know how you don't call it a design flaw.Interesting... I have a bit of clunking when I turn and fairly new ome springs.. I guess a couple of years old... Guess I should check for this too
If you peer in you'll see the shoulder of the bushings beaten down on one or both sides of your clunker and the spring off center.
Leave your hubs locked and drive back from Pt Renfrew to Sooke. That will make you wanna stop and call a tow truck.
Mine used to be really loud and it kinda scared me. Reminds me it's greasing time again. Is that the same leaf pack you
got from me?
Mine used to be really loud and it kinda scared me. Reminds me it's greasing time again. Is that the same leaf pack you
got from me?
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- #500
Yep, they're well used, but truck still sits at the right height so no sense changing them.
I wouldn't mind pulling a leaf out of the rear to lower it a bit, but it hasn't registered as important enough for me to do anything about it.
Funny with the clunking, it does come and go a bit. Always seems to be noisier when it's wet out for me but it's not like the water gets into the spring eyes, so who knows what that's about.
I need to grab a couple tubes of lithium grease when I'm out today. Supposedly spring bushings don't like the regular stuff.