I cannot remove the front factory tow points. I think the bolt is seized? Tried an impact air drill and no luck. any suggestions?
100 Series Recovery Point Question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter eurodre
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- 100 series question recovery series
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soak in penetrating oil + leverage + elbow grease
I broke both weld-nuts inside the frame on the passenger side trying to loosen them with a breaker bar. I found the best way was to heat the bolt with a blow torch, soak it in penetrating fluid, hit the bolt head with an air hammer to help break it loose and then go at it with an impact gun. Rinse and repeat as needed.
Heat is your friend. I like to use a MAP gas torch for stubborn bolts. Seems to burn hotter than propane which makes it work faster on those big 14mm bolts.
Makes me cringe when I hear what you guys have to do with bolts and nuts that are seized,
Guess with myself never have lived up north I can't grasp the amount of corrosive stuff due to the road salts and all.
If I could get a factory rear bumper with the cut out for cheap I'd rock a pintle in a heartbeat!
Added rear end protection at traffic lights for cheap also.
Guess with myself never have lived up north I can't grasp the amount of corrosive stuff due to the road salts and all.
If I could get a factory rear bumper with the cut out for cheap I'd rock a pintle in a heartbeat!
Added rear end protection at traffic lights for cheap also.
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Folks I did a little bit of research on that specific pintle and this is what I find:
from this thread:
Pintle versus hitch
from this thread:
Pintle versus hitch
How did you access the inside of the frame to repair this broken welded on nut? I see the rear is accessible if broken but the front is enclosed.
Any particular place to purchase new bolts besides the dealership. I was told graded 8.8-12.9. Have checked around me also checked nutsandbolts.com and no one carries.
I might have a few of the M14 grade 12.9 socket head cap screws from when I was selling my FRBv2's. Will have a look today when I'm over at my storage unit. I could only find them in this grade by buying boxes ...
I haven't addressed it yet. I might have to remove the frame end cap and reweld the nuts or drop some spacer blocks and carriage bolts through like this:
Weld Nut Removal and Replacement Review Video | etrailer.com
Resurrecting thread...
Newbie question...
If the LX470 is only rated to tow 5000 lbs, would the tow hitch interface even be able to be used for recovering the 100 series seeing as the vehicle already weighs more than that. Or if I tried to pull another LC out of the mud, would it not work?
I was looking at the red pintle recovery attachment (I will probably never tow anything and I like the way it looks) but I would hate to rip the bumper or rear off my vehicle by performing some kind of recovery.
Newbie question...
If the LX470 is only rated to tow 5000 lbs, would the tow hitch interface even be able to be used for recovering the 100 series seeing as the vehicle already weighs more than that. Or if I tried to pull another LC out of the mud, would it not work?
I was looking at the red pintle recovery attachment (I will probably never tow anything and I like the way it looks) but I would hate to rip the bumper or rear off my vehicle by performing some kind of recovery.
^ depends
Depends upon how much force is required to get you unstuck. If the rig is buried up to the frame rails in thick clay for instance ... maybe not the best choice. And direction of pull is relative too. Ditto for static versus dynamic pull (and the type of recovery rope you use). And, of course and you probably already thought of this: Useless if you have a trailer hitched to your LC .
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Resurrecting thread...
Newbie question...
If the LX470 is only rated to tow 5000 lbs, would the tow hitch interface even be able to be used for recovering the 100 series seeing as the vehicle already weighs more than that. Or if I tried to pull another LC out of the mud, would it not work?
I was looking at the red pintle recovery attachment (I will probably never tow anything and I like the way it looks) but I would hate to rip the bumper or rear off my vehicle by performing some kind of recovery.
The tow rating is not necessarily equal to the working load limit nor the minimum breaking strength of the hitch. Tow ratings have to take into account things like brakes, suspension, engine and transmission performance while towing. It's also only an indication of the max weight of the trailer, not the max force acting on the hitch under load. That's not a guarantee that the hitch will be fine under all recovery scenarios, but it's probably not as bad as you're thinking.
I got part 15189 from BoltDepot.com. They're 10.9 which is roughly equivalent to grade 8.
get a longer breaker bar!
also I'm using something similar to this for the rear
Amazon.com: Trailhead Multi-Mount Receiver Hitch with 3/4" Shackle for Jeep Wrangler and all Chevy/GMC, Ford, Dodge, Nissan, Toyota Truck 2" Receivers - Use with Tow/Snatch Strap for Towing and Recovery: Automotive
I'm using this in the rear.
I started to fabricate some recovery points for the front out of 3/4 in. steel because I wanted the style made by Roadsafe in Australia but couldn't find a U.S. supplier. Came across Marks4wd and got the Roadsafe recovery points from them.
If the weld nuts are broken couldn't you just drill completely through the frame and bolt through using a crush tube. The Roadsafe recovery points I have has 3 holes. The 2 rearmost ones line up with my frame holes, the third I plan on drilling and through bolting.
Question:
Can I use the factory Toyota towing attachment into the rear metal bumper to mount a hitch receiver tire swing out?
My LC is a 2000, so i'm under the impression I need to swap in the metal bumper support from an LX470?
Can I use the factory Toyota towing attachment into the rear metal bumper to mount a hitch receiver tire swing out?
My LC is a 2000, so i'm under the impression I need to swap in the metal bumper support from an LX470?
I've been leaning towards the same idea for a swing out. The support you're talking about is welded to the frame though so wouldn't be the easiest thing to swap.
