What spare parts to carry

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9toys said:
jesus! might as well just bring a spare new cruiser along in tow.
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It's meant as a collection of what people carry. I do not intend to carry all that.

After carrying lots of parts for years, I have decided to carry the stuff that will get me homwe if needed. For example, a spare drive shaft might be good to take to a long event, but it's not required to get home. You can remove the rear and get home with just one if needed
 
Probability of failure x severity of impact x effectiveness of repair (x cost to carry)...
:meh:

Typos sent from my HTC EVO using the IH8MUD app...
 
staggrlee said:
U Joints, pre-packed with grease, wrapped in wax paper and kept in a small Tupperware container.
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Use the Food Saver and Vacuum seal them, less mess if the grease melts in the heat and less chance of contamination. Works for wheel bearings etc. as well.
 
Great list everyone. Romer, thanks for starting something that was long overdue. Getting some good ideas.
 
Romer said:
It's meant as a collection of what people carry. I do not intend to carry all that.

After carrying lots of parts for years, I have decided to carry the stuff that will get me homwe if needed. For example, a spare drive shaft might be good to take to a long event, but it's not required to get home. You can remove the rear and get home with just one if needed
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Why home?

I carry my AAA card. As long as I can get to pavement* and cell service I can call a truck. I also pay extra for the extended towing feature. My point being that all you really need to carry is enough stuff to get off the trail.


If you wheel with one or two others, as you should, you can overcome any drive trail failure by towing. So the bare minimum functionality is steering, keeping all 4 wheels turning and a tow strap. It follows that you should concentrate on axle and steering components.


*AAA will not pay for towing or recovery off road (cost me $$$$ to find that out).
 
rusty_tlc said:
Why home?
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If I am 400 miles away in Utah, 300 miles away in South dakota or other places, I would rather not pay AAA to tow me soemwhere to fix it, then I may have to wait for parts etc. I'd like to be able to make it home to my own garage under my own control. Thats my personal preference. Obviously, it isnt practical to carry everything that could get you home. You have to pick what you feel comfortable with. Fuses, relays, coil packs are items that can leave you stranded on the trail or the highway.
 
It's also different if you wheel alone. Not often for me, but there's been a few times when I've gone on my own. In that case, a Ham is probably your best 'spare' to have....
 
OregonLC said:
It's also different if you wheel alone. Not often for me, but there's been a few times when I've gone on my own. In that case, a Ham is probably your best 'spare' to have....
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Provided you know the local repeaters and PL codes. A repeater directory might be a good thing to carry as a "tool".
 
Romer said:
If I am 400 miles away in Utah, 300 miles away in South dakota or other places, I would rather not pay AAA to tow me soemwhere to fix it, then I may have to wait for parts etc. I'd like to be able to make it home to my own garage under my own control. Thats my personal preference. Obviously, it isnt practical to carry everything that could get you home. You have to pick what you feel comfortable with. Fuses, relays, coil packs are items that can leave you stranded on the trail or the highway.
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That's a good answer, I can respect that.
 
beno said:
Does anyone here carry built rear axle shafts since they are SFs?

I know Cruiserdrew and some othe 60/62 people do.....
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I carried rear shafts in my 80 for 6 years and never needed them or ran into someone who did. The 100 rear end is very similar from what I can tell. I don't plan on carrying them with the 100.
 
beno said:
Does anyone here carry built rear axle shafts since they are SFs?

I know Cruiserdrew and some othe 60/62 people do.....
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Is there a need? Agree that it would be a bad day if needed. But I've not heard of any axles/wheels departing a 100 (yet).

BTW, thanks for putting your contact info in your siggy! I end up searching for 10 minutes whenever I call.
 
spressomon said:
APPS and TPS
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I consider this an advantage of the early 100's. The cable acts as a fully redundant system. Unplug both the APPS and TPS and you still have throttle control, although it doesn't engage until the bottom of the stoke and it's quite coarse in it's movement. Won't leave you stranded though. Anyone know what year they did away with the cable completely? 2003?

spressomon said:
Balljoint puller for the upper and lower knuckle tapers. If you have a heavy BFH you can use the hammer flats on the knuckle (you've always wondered what those special flats are for right?!) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle most of the time; but good to have the tool just in case.
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Which specific puller do you use? I keep forgetting to measure and then when I get to a store that has one they never look like the right size. BFH has worked for me.
 
2 Essential engine bearings that are exposed to the elements and failure means you cant run the engine:

6203 for the tensioner pulley
6301 can be used for the top idler pulley (its the best standard bearing size that fits)

I also carry a spare fuel pump
 
How to release the upper ball joint from the knuckle

While on the subject of specialty tools and parts I thought I'd post this up here. Some of you may well be aware of this and other's may not...

This method of separating the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle eliminates using/needing a puller.

With a suitably large hammer ("BFH") and with the rig jacked and properly supported remove the front wheel. Loosen the ball joint nut so that there are at least a few threads holding the nut to the ball joint but a good space in between the knuckle and the upper side of the nut.

With the knuckle in the drooped and unsupported position take your BFH and smack the knuckle at one of the three red dotted circle locations. These "pads" are designed for this very purpose.

Normally just a couple hard smacks of the BFH will release the tension on the ball joint taper at the knuckle taper. Then unthread/remove the ball joint retaining nut and you now have separated the upper ball joint from the knuckle.

I've not been consistently successful using the same technique on the lower ball joint to knuckle...but worth a try if all you have is a BFH ;)

If you are replacing the CV shaft you can, by just separating the upper ball joint, as described above, you can swing the knuckle far enough to just barely enable R&R of the CV shaft without having to remove the lower joint. It either helps to have another pair of hands to hold/support the steering knuckle while you deal with R&R of the CV shaft. Or if you are solo a ratchet strap/bungie cord/cord will suffice too.
LC Knuckle taper release pic.001.webp
 
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pfran42 said:
How about 2 high quality stainless steel , smooth band w/rolled edges CV boot clamps (on big, one small)? If you break a band on the trail, it becomes a 5 minute fix.
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Good one. I added it to the list
 
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