Box Rocket homemade trailer build

Box Rocket · 01-29-09, 10:10 AM

Ok, so this post may be a little premature as I don't have much to offer just yet but I am getting started on my own little off-road trailer build. I'll be posting pics etc as I go. I'm hoping to have it useable in the next month or so as the snow melt enough out in th west desert that I can go camping with my boys.

Current status is all still in peices. I've ordered my lock-n-roll hitch, and the 3500# axle with springs etc. I'm getting the rest of my parts list together and should be picking up the steel next week and then I'll be rolling.

My plans are to keep things pretty basic and lightweight. I don't currently need a fully kitted expedition trailer but more room for gear etc since my wife just had twins and with our other two boys and our dog the space in the truck is just about gone. I also need to be able to use the trailer for odd jobs around the house, so any mods including drawers, stoves, water tanks etc, will need to be easily removeable so that I can take advantage of the utility aspects that I need in a trailer.

I'm not planning anything elaborate in the construction other than a 4x6' box, some decent fenders to cover the 285s on stock 80 series wheels. It will have a tailgate, a locking lid that I can remove if I need an open trailer. Probably a good cooler mount, and mounts for gas cans, and probably a small propane canister. I have a pair of Thule load bars that I'll use for a base for a tent in the future or whatever else I need. I am also entertaining the idea of having pockets in the bed corners for an additional overhead rack for addtional stacked storage if necessary.

That's about it for now. I appreciate the ideas I've gleaned from everyone here and especially from good people like Exiled.

I'll try to give consistent updates and hopefully repay others with some of my own ideas. I'll be sure to also take plenty of pics.

Stay tuned.

Box Rocket · 01-29-09, 05:01 PM

So for starters I am picking up my custom axle tomorrow. I ended up fairly basic but it's a 3500# straight axle that is 64" wide (1/2 wider than the 80 rear axle) with idler hubs (no brakes) with 6x5.5 lug pattern so I can use some stock 80 series alloys. I ordered it from Henderson Wheel who has been awesome to work with and their prices seem very competitive. I've added a link to their site in the FAQ. First pics should come tomorrow when I get the axle and my lock-n-roll should show up.

sseaman · 01-30-09, 09:06 AM

Adam, we need pics. I am interested in seeing how you have it fit both a utility trailer and an expo trailer. I opted for a basic utility type trailer and figure i can strap down containers holding stuff when camping.

bhmmapping · 01-30-09, 09:15 AM

Subscribed. I have been thinking about building this exact setup for a while now.

Box Rocket · 01-30-09, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseaman

Adam, we need pics. I am interested in seeing how you have it fit both a utility trailer and an expo trailer. I opted for a basic utility type trailer and figure i can strap down containers holding stuff when camping.

I will share plenty of pics as I go. The size is definitely more along the lines of an expo trailer than a utility trailer, but my plan is just to not make things like drawers, fridges and other common expo equipment a permanent part of it. That way I can still haul the other random crap when I need to.

I'm getting excited about it, and hoping to make some progress this weekend but I have a few things that might get in the way. I pick up the axle in an hour or two.

GLTHFJ60 · 01-30-09, 11:51 AM

I'm subscribed as well. This should be a good build!

Box Rocket · 01-30-09, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60

I'm subscribed as well. This should be a good build!

I love high expectations.

sseaman · 01-30-09, 02:30 PM

I think Drew has set our expectations pretty high.

Exiled · 01-30-09, 02:53 PM

Woohoo! This is so cool, I'm jealous! You've heard me say many times that if I ever had to do it again, I'd go custom (built from scratch) rather than adapting an M416, but since I'm not in the position to do so (no welder/welding skills, no time/space), I live vicariously through my friends. Adam, any way I can pitch it, let me know!

tltaylor22 · 01-30-09, 04:13 PM

"since my wife just had twins"

Adam, Quit drinking that Utah water! Congrats on the babies.

I too had a trailer project on my list of things to do before spring, but a root canal redo and a crown today sucked the fundage right out from under me.

Box Rocket · 01-30-09, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseaman

I think Drew has set our expectations pretty high.

Drew is a total posuer!

Ok honestly, Drew's trailer is unreal and in my wildest dreams I couldn't come close to the sweetness that is his trailer. So if Drew's trailer is where you're expectations are, set your sights elsewhere on this thread. If Drew's trailer is Derek Jeter, mine will be more along the lines of Matt Walton (he was our high school pitcher). He was good but.......

Box Rocket · 01-31-09, 08:40 PM

Well, first things first. Not huge progress today but a necessary step in order to have the trailer possible. Don'd mind the winter salt and rust but here is my rear bumper as of this morning.......notice anything missing?

The main factor that is going to slow me down on this whole project is the fact that other than the welder, I really don't have much other than basic tools. I'm hoping to borrow a chop saw from a buddy, but at the moment all cuts are made with a cutoff wheel on my 4.5" angle grinder, and then its just regular old hand tools. One of these days I'll get me some air tools but for now, what I've got works.

So after cutting through my bumper and rear crossmember, oh and there is a little primer already sprayed on the crossmember.

I'm using an 18" receiver tube. I wanted to keep my clearance as good as possible so the hole for the pin is behind the bumper, no big deal and it's actually not too hard to get to. Small sacrifice for a little bit less to drag. I welded up the face of the receiver tube and ground it smooth. 4x4 peice of wood and some jackstand to get it held into place while I tack it in.

Fully welded to both sides of the bumper and across the bottom. I haven't picked up my steel for the trailer yet but I'll be using the threaded frame holes used for the stock spare tire jack for some additional support the other end of the receiver tube. I'll be using a little more 2" tubing to span across between the frame and tie into the receiver tube. Should be plenty strong for any towing I'll do.

And here's a pic of my axle I picked up yesterday. Decided on 64" WMS to WMS, so .5" wider than the 80 rear axle. The tires I'm using on the trailer are slightly narrow than the tires on the truck so it should be almost perfect track width.

I've also been building a 3D model of the trailer on my computer using Maya (animation software I use at work). I'm still playing with a few things in the basic design like axle placement and box size etc, but I'm getting closer. I'll add other details later but this is a super basic mockup.

Hopefully more progress next week once I pick up the steel. Things should get moving a bit quicker then.

Exiled · 02-01-09, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Well, first things first. Not huge progress today but a necessary step in order to have the trailer possible. Don'd mind the winter salt and rust but here is my rear bumper as of this morning.......notice anything missing?

The main factor that is going to slow me down on this whole project is the fact that other than the welder, I really don't have much other than basic tools. I'm hoping to borrow a chop saw from a buddy, but at the moment all cuts are made with a cutoff wheel on my 4.5" angle grinder, and then its just regular old hand tools. One of these days I'll get me some air tools but for now, what I've got works.

So after cutting through my bumper and rear crossmember, oh and there is a little primer already sprayed on the crossmember.

I'm using an 18" receiver tube. I wanted to keep my clearance as good as possible so the hole for the pin is behind the bumper, no big deal and it's actually not too hard to get to. Small sacrifice for a little bit less to drag. I welded up the face of the receiver tube and ground it smooth. 4x4 peice of wood and some jackstand to get it held into place while I tack it in.

Fully welded to both sides of the bumper and across the bottom. I haven't picked up my steel for the trailer yet but I'll be using the threaded frame holes used for the stock spare tire jack for some additional support the other end of the receiver tube. I'll be using a little more 2" tubing to span across between the frame and tie into the receiver tube. Should be plenty strong for any towing I'll do.

And here's a pic of my axle I picked up yesterday. Decided on 64" WMS to WMS, so .5" wider than the 80 rear axle. The tires I'm using on the trailer are slightly narrow than the tires on the truck so it should be almost perfect track width.

I've also been building a 3D model of the trailer on my computer using Maya (animation software I use at work). I'm still playing with a few things in the basic design like axle placement and box size etc, but I'm getting closer. I'll add other details later but this is a super basic mockup.

Hopefully more progress next week once I pick up the steel. Things should get moving a bit quicker then.

With that length tongue, you can move the axle forward and center it on the box portion of the frame.

Box Rocket · 02-01-09, 04:08 PM

Thanks, I've been wondering about that. Trying find a good "balance" so that with the tongue jack I can keep things pretty stable without other support legs.

Like I said, I'm still playing around with some of those things so it's good to hear your input.

Box Rocket · 02-01-09, 11:01 PM

Went back through a bunch of my old trailer photos as I was brainstorming today. I kept coming back to this one. I may be modifying my design slightly to be a bit closer to this. I'm thinking rather than having multiple supports in the box frame sides I can keep a cleaner look by eliminating them and using 14 ga. skins for the box. I had planned on 16 ga. but wonder if that would be too light. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?

Anyone have a good source for premade fenders? I am debating back and forth about building the fender frames myself and skinning them or just using some premade ones. The premade ones would be less expensive for sure but I need to try to find some that are decent and hopefully 10" wide at a minimum. If anyone knows of any wider ones I'd like to know about those too.

dieselcruiserhead · 02-04-09, 07:30 PM

Sweet Adam, psyched to see how it turns out...

Shipwreck · 02-05-09, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Went back through a bunch of my old trailer photos as I was brainstorming today. I kept coming back to this one. I may be modifying my design slightly to be a bit closer to this. I'm thinking rather than having multiple supports in the box frame sides I can keep a cleaner look by eliminating them and using 14 ga. skins for the box. I had planned on 16 ga. but wonder if that would be too light. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?

Anyone have a good source for premade fenders? I am debating back and forth about building the fender frames myself and skinning them or just using some premade ones. The premade ones would be less expensive for sure but I need to try to find some that are decent and hopefully 10" wide at a minimum. If anyone knows of any wider ones I'd like to know about those too.

Adam,
I thought your design looked familiar.
I was fortunate enough to buy Mike Robinson's trailer when he sold it here a year or two ago. It really is a nice trailer with some well thought-out features. (Thanks Mike!)
There are quite a few detailed pictures in his For-Sale post found here:
Miker Trailer For-Sale Ad

There are a few minor changes I may make, such as adding tube to the fender edge, tie down points in the bed, and possibly narrowing the bumper slightly. If you want measurements or other details let me know. I'm sure sure Miker would be happy to help also.

Good luck with the project.

Box Rocket · 02-05-09, 10:25 AM

Thanks for posting that. Seriously I've been thinking about building a trailer for years and even chatted with Mike about this trailer probably 7-8 years ago. Crazy.

I truly like the simple design of his trailer a lot. I am hoping to pick up steel this afternoon and if I do I can probably get the frame all put together this weekend. I think I found some fenders just like those one on your trailer for $25 ea. I have a few odds and ends I still need to pick up but I gotta see what money I've got left in my budget after I get the steel. It may take a few weeks to sock away a bit more money to put finishing touches on it.

Sorry I don't have more progress yet but hopefully this weekend. I did through some tires on it and loose mounted the springs, but that will all come off.

REZARF · 02-05-09, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Drew is a total posuer!

Ok honestly, Drew's trailer is unreal and in my wildest dreams I couldn't come close to the sweetness that is his trailer. So if Drew's trailer is where you're expectations are, set your sights elsewhere on this thread. If Drew's trailer is Derek Jeter, mine will be more along the lines of Matt Walton (he was our high school pitcher). He was good but.......

I'll take that as a compliment!

If you trailer comes anywhere near your 40 build (moneypit right?) You're going to be just fine bro. Congrats on the twins... you might consider going 4x8

I have that same trailer in my trailer file for years. Simple, clean, effective... you can't go wrong with that kind of design.

As for fenders, in all my hunting around I couldn't find what I wanted to cover the 12.5's out back... so I built my own. Prefabbed would be nice but honestly, this is one area you want to get right, if you have a rock chucked into the rear window of your 80 any coin you saved on by going with narrower fenders will quickly vanish

Oh... and while you are dreaming of picking up your steel and making a frame, I will be sleeping in the RMNP tomorrow night to the sounds of elk bugling and a crackling fire

... did I mention I will be under a down comforter with a 12v heated blanket... oh yeah, I am a posuer for sure!

Box Rocket · 02-05-09, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

I'll take that as a compliment!

If you trailer comes anywhere near your 40 build (moneypit right?) You're going to be just fine bro. Congrats on the twins... you might consider going 4x8

I have that same trailer in my trailer file for years. Simple, clean, effective... you can't go wrong with that kind of design.

As for fenders, in all my hunting around I couldn't find what I wanted to cover the 12.5's out back... so I built my own. Prefabbed would be nice but honestly, this is one area you want to get right, if you have a rock chucked into the rear window of your 80 any coin you saved on by going with narrower fenders will quickly vanish

Oh... and while you are dreaming of picking up your steel and making a frame, I will be sleeping in the RMNP tomorrow night to the sounds of elk bugling and a crackling fire

... did I mention I will be under a down comforter with a 12v heated blanket... oh yeah, I am a posuer for sure!

Surely you know that was definitely meant as a compliment.

Yes the Moneypit was my 40. Wish I still had it.

I found some 10" wide fenders that I think will work. Rather than mounting them directly to the side of the box, I'm planning to space them off the trailer just a little to actually cover more of the tire. I think I only need them spaced off the trailer an inch or so. Or maybe I'll just use some of my 1" tubing to build a spacer to mount them too. Anyway I think I can get the prefab fenders to work well.

REZARF · 02-05-09, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Surely you know that was definitely meant as a compliment.

OF COURSE! Thanks for the kind words.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

I found some 10" wide fenders that I think will work. Rather than mounting them directly to the side of the box, I'm planning to space them off the trailer just a little to actually cover more of the tire. I think I only need them spaced off the trailer an inch or so. Or maybe I'll just use some of my 1" tubing to build a spacer to mount them too. Anyway I think I can get the prefab fenders to work well.

That should work no problem. I would just reitterate to cover the tires fully... Henry convinced me of that early on and I am glad he did.

Looking forward to what you come up with Adam, I had your 40 as my screen saver for years... still think about painting mine that sweet green/grey color you had.

ntsqd · 02-06-09, 09:15 PM

I recommend this one a lot, but it is worth the price:

How to Design and Build Trailers — Vol. 2 | How-To Books | Northern Tool + Equipment

Box Rocket · 02-08-09, 01:30 AM

Had a fairly productive day today. I have pics to prove it but my card reader on my PC is being stupid and won't read my card from my camera so I can't show them to you yet.

Anyway, I got the entire frame and box all welded up today. Doesn't have skins on the box yet. I also got the suspension attached to the frame and the axle is underneath it and with the exception of the tongue I have a rolling trailer. Didn't expect to get quite that far on the first day so I'm stoked. It's currently got a little set of 235/75 R15s on it until my used set of 80 wheels gets here from Idaho hopefully this week. Then I have a used pair of 285/75 R16 Goodyear MTRs that will go on it. My hitch height on the 80 is about 25" and the bottom of the frame on the trailer is about 23.5" right now with the small tires. With the bigger set on there it should be just about perfect height behind the 80.

I'm using a Miller 175 230V welder, and it's been great. I used it on my rear bumper build and it's been great for this project too. Thanks to Ryan Davis for his sweet lathe skills. I ran out of wire on the welder around 8pm tonight and called Ryan to see if he had any and sho-nuf he had an 11lb spool. I made the 30 min drive to his house and brought the empty 2lb spool with me. The hole in the center of the spool was WAY too big on Ryans spool so we loaded my empty 2lb spool into the lathe and I held onto the 11lb spool while Ryan man'd the lathe controls and we did a high-speed rewind of the little 2lb spool. Once again, glad that Ryan has cool tools.

Still to do list:

cap a couple holes in the top lip of the box, weld the tongue to the frame, build the tailgate, pick up fenders and figure out how to mount them, lights, frame and skin the lid. Paint. My lock-n-roll hitch should show up this week too.

I think I can get most of the remaining construction wrapped up in the evenings this next week (hopefully) and then maybe be ready for paint by Saturday. We'll see, maybe I'm getting a little ahead of myself. I'll post pics when I can get my CF card to read.

Box Rocket · 02-08-09, 10:01 AM

Ok, I finally got my pictures off my camera. So maybe a quick materials list and some basic dimensions. For the main frame I am using 2.5" .120 and the tongue is 2.5" 3/16. The uprights on the box are 1.5" .063 and the top rail of the box is 1x3" .063. I have two sheets of 16ga. for the skins for both the box and the lid. The lid will be framed with 1" .063 and the tailgate will be using the same 1.5" as the uprights. The outside dimensions of the frame are 4'x6' with a tongue length of 4' so a total length of 120" not counting the length of the lock-n-roll hitch. The height of the box is 19" (18" uprights plus the 1" from the top rail).

tacking the frame on the floor.

using my sweet folding table workbench I got the frame assembled at a little easier height than sitting on the floor.

frame corners were ground clean

On to the uprights, this is probably pretty low-tech but I got the corners set at the right angle and then ran a string to help me line up the other uprights.

top rail tacking into place. Still need to cap the back end of these at the tailgate.

Getting the suspension onto the frame. I have the springs mounted just a bit behind the centerline of the trailer to give a little more tongue weight. The idea being that it will be a little more stable with the tongue jack and just the tires supporting it.

Axle all mounted up and temp little tires on it.

test fitting my Thule load bars. Looks like they'll work perfectly.

Box Rocket · 02-08-09, 11:38 AM

So I need some suggestions on tongue length. Is there an ideal length? I know a longer tongue helps with backing the trailer.

I have a 4' section of 2.5" 3/16 that I've planned on using. And the 4' length will clear the truck if I jacknife the trailer but do I need to be longer? I still have some 2.5" .120 that I used for my frame that I could triangulate off the front of the frame and extend the 4' peice out farther if it would help.

Gimme some suggestions.

Exiled · 02-08-09, 01:12 PM

Adam, mine's 52" from the box section of the frame to the center of the lunette hitch. I don't know about an "ideal" length, but 48" should be fine, it will still allow you to put stuff in front of the tub without fear of hitting the truck if you jacknife the trailer; it will be short enough to maneuver on trails but still easy to reverse with it.

ntsqd · 02-08-09, 02:29 PM

The tongue on my TrailBlazer is extendable.

The book I mentioned has a Shear-Moment Diagram method of figuring out the tongue length if you know what the loading and load placement will be.

My grandfather's RoT is that the unladen tongue be a minimum of 1/3 of the total distance from the ball to the axle centerline.

REZARF · 02-08-09, 04:59 PM

WOW! Maybe you could slow down a little! Man, I feel like mine took about a kazillion years compared to this!

Great job Adam! I would think 4 feet would be plenty if not a little over kill. I just measured from my hitch to the side of the rig, then I added another 8 inches or so for a little wiggle room. The LNR hitch will add a bit more room too. You gotta remember it needs to clear the rig in a jack-knife situation for sure, but also think of jack-knifing in a little ditch or something where your hitch has become the low-point of a "V" between your rig and trailer. You have to give the trailer a little room to articulate up and down as well... clear as mud?

Great job, looking forward to hassling someone else to get theirs done

Box Rocket · 02-08-09, 10:06 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. It sounds like my 48" tongue will be just fine. So my next question is about any triangulation from the fram to the tongue. I think I need some for sure but how far up the tongue should I go with it? Do I need to keep as much of the tongue just a straight tube in case of a jacknife or is it ok for the tongue to "bottom-out" against the triangulated peice in a jacknife situation?

What say the trailer-Gods?

Box Rocket · 02-08-09, 10:24 PM

Ok, another question....if I had any brains, I'd maybe ask all of this in the same post rather than in a bunch of different ones. Oh well, pad my post count right?

So I've got my 16 ga. sheet for the tub skins. I've been planning on welding all the outer edges of the sheet to the tub frame. Probably not a full solid bead but maybe an inch long bead every few inches or so. But I'm a little concerned about rust developing over time in the spots where the skins overlap the frame. Can I just use some seam sealer on the exterior around all of those corners where the frame meets the skin?

Is it a better option to use screws or rivets to attach the skins? That way I can prime and paint the skins and frame beforehand then attach them. Drew, I know you used rivets on yours. Any regrets? I know rivets will be much more time consuming.

Suggestions?