WTB / Needed Thread 2014 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I've done a ton of copper tubing as a former HVAC tech, but never aluminum.

But that Harris Al-braze 1070 kit makes it look about as simple as copper. The only real difference is the flux is kind of powdery and has to be melted in pretty good. But then the brazing wire pretty much seems to suck right in/on. And of course have to be cautious of the heat alittle more than with copper tubing.

Have you done any copper tubing brazing?
 
Last edited:
Pretty good vid which shows how the stuff works. He brazes aluminum to copper, and aluminum to aluminum, so you can see the difference in how Al to Al works.

Oh, and I'm not positive, but Sammy might even be able to translate the narrating...lol!

 
Last edited:
I've done a ton of copper tubing as a former HVAC tech, but never aluminum.

But that Harris Al-braze 1070 kit makes it look about as simple as copper. The only real difference is the flux is kind of powdery and has to be melted in pretty good. But then the brazing wire pretty much seems to suck right in/on. And of course have to be cautious of the heat alittle more than with copper tubing.

Have you done any copper tubing brazing?

I have no experience in a/c brazing, so this is new to me. Have soldered in miles of copper water lines, so it should not be too difficult to pick up.

Seems like this would be easier than welding it together.
 
Then I'm in the same boat as you. Soldered a ton of copper (sorry, guess I'm not as much help).

For me, I'd go the "solder" product with the flux. Just lookd so much cleaner and you can see the solder suck into the joint.

I can't find any good vid or process where someone uses stick on aluminum tubing specifically (other than one guy trying to use stick on a radiator fitting, but he was making a mess).
 
I started looking at soldiering the ac aluminum with my swap and took the torch to one of the fitting I knew I wouldn't use. The factory ones are not soldered. Everything melted at the same point I felt. The joint may have melted just a touch sooner as the joint came apart but was mangled and melted at the same time. So they may have used aluminum solder with a slightly lower temp and a controlled over soldering process to control the melt point better.
 
I was wondering about that (the integrity of the tubing/fittings under heat). The sticks are flowable between 700-750 degrees I think. Not sure what the aluminum solder flows at, but would assume much lower heat.
 
Although maybe that's the point if brazing...heating up the stick or brazing rod more than the joint. Guess that makes sense now that I think about it.
 
Keeping with my random questions.... Looking at adding whole house surge protection. Anyone have any advice on this or electrician friend that can point me in direction?
 
KCP&L will not be responsible for damage (1) to Appliances not owned by the Customer; (2) to property of Customer that, in KCP&L’s sole and reasonable discretion, does not constitute an Appliance; (3) to Customer’s residence; (4) to products, materials, data or information used or stored in an Appliance; (5) caused by a surge which has not passed through the surge protection device at the electric meter; (6) caused by a direct lightning strike to Customer’s premises; (7) caused by the improper installation of the grounding electrode system under the standards in the National Electric Code, or (8) to residential heating and cooling equipment. KCP&L’s liability will be limited to the depreciated value of the damaged Appliances as determined by the most recent version of a Guide to Property Loss Adjustment as published by the National Association of Mutual Insurance Companies, and KCP&L will not be responsible for Customer’s indirect or consequential damages. Customer individually and on behalf of its insurers waives all rights of subrogation against KCP&L.
 
With that disclaimer it make me wonder if they will ever pay out? looking at the square D unit it lists " The HEPD has a limited warranty of five years with a $50,000 connected equipment warranty for residential applications."
 
Agree with your thought on the disclaimer, however, I think you would have same or worse issue fighting Square D to pay out. With KCPL at least you can have the Corp commission and Insurance commission to fight for you in Kansas. Doing the math, a $84 protector that is good for 5 years is about $1.40 a month cost if you install it yourself.

I am all electric house, so I have 3 electric panels, (2 in house and 1 in shop) so that would be three times the $84 and replace every 5 years for warranty. Math is that would be about $4.20 a month, not counting my time. Based on that, I signed up for the KCPL deal. I will try and find out what unit they install if anyone cares.
 
Doesn't your homeowner's insurance cover lightning strikes?

Absolutely, I have never made a claim on my house insurance as I don't like my rates to go up, so I like the idea of having a different policy to cover this.

I want my home insurance to be there when the big ticket stuff happens.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom