ill be doing my knuckle rebuild this weekend and i know if your in there its the time to replace the rotors if they need it. mine have some groves in them (not bad but they are there) i have no idea how long the rotors have been on the truck. i would buy new but with a cross country move in the next few weeks money is super hard to come by. can i get them turned? and to add to it could i use 100 series pads with them? i see me just going back in when i have more money to spare.
to turn the rotors or not (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1morebike
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Not
I even have a brake lathe in my shop and I still don't think it's worth my time when compared to the price of new ones
I even have a brake lathe in my shop and I still don't think it's worth my time when compared to the price of new ones
asutherland
VA7 HDT
If you have them turned, then you can likely fit the 100 series pads. However, if the rotors are new you'll have a hard time fitting the 100 series pads without grinding some of the surface off.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
asutherland said:
If you try and use the pad shim yes. I took it off and had no problem with brand new rotors and pads.
You need to measure how thick they are. The FSM has the spec on the minimum amount.
If it's close to minimum, replace. I used Brembo rotors in the front of the
truck, they're pretty close to OEM quality. Other rotors I've seen are uber cheap (way lighter).
Grooves I wouldn't worry too much about. My front rotor is super grooved (due to a nasty clay wheeling trip) and the truck still stops just fine. It's not ideal, but the pad will conform to the grooves and everything will (eventually) even out somewhat as it wears.
I'm personally of the opinion of not turning rotors in general. Often when you do, they just warp again, so it might buy you a few miles but you're stuck doing the job again in the not too distant future. As long as they aren't warped, and they're a decent amount above the min spec, I'd run them.
If it's close to minimum, replace. I used Brembo rotors in the front of the
truck, they're pretty close to OEM quality. Other rotors I've seen are uber cheap (way lighter).Grooves I wouldn't worry too much about. My front rotor is super grooved (due to a nasty clay wheeling trip) and the truck still stops just fine. It's not ideal, but the pad will conform to the grooves and everything will (eventually) even out somewhat as it wears.
I'm personally of the opinion of not turning rotors in general. Often when you do, they just warp again, so it might buy you a few miles but you're stuck doing the job again in the not too distant future. As long as they aren't warped, and they're a decent amount above the min spec, I'd run them.
What Ebag said.
Unless they are warped, they don't get turned.
Unless they are warped, they don't get turned.
X2. Either use them or replace. I've never turned rotors and don't replace them unless they are close to minimum spec.
You don't really mention anything about any braking problems or the condition of your existing pads.
Assuming your truck is stopping safely and you have sufficient pad depth, then check the rotor thickness, the minimum is usually stamped on the back of the rotor. If they are within spec you can reuse what you have. You can also add new pads without turning the rotors if the pads are shot (assume this is why you have grooves) and the rotors are within spec. New pads will set in pretty quickly.
Again this is only because you said money is tight. I think everyone would recommend new rotors and pads because of the redundancy of labor and "minimal" cost.
Sometimes our time is worth less than money
Assuming your truck is stopping safely and you have sufficient pad depth, then check the rotor thickness, the minimum is usually stamped on the back of the rotor. If they are within spec you can reuse what you have. You can also add new pads without turning the rotors if the pads are shot (assume this is why you have grooves) and the rotors are within spec. New pads will set in pretty quickly.
Again this is only because you said money is tight. I think everyone would recommend new rotors and pads because of the redundancy of labor and "minimal" cost.
Sometimes our time is worth less than money
I'm personally of the opinion of not turning rotors in general. Often when you do, they just warp again, so it might buy you a few miles but you're stuck doing the job again in the not too distant future. As long as they aren't warped, and they're a decent amount above the min spec, I'd run them.
^^ This.
if they're not warped and meet minimum thickness spec, just run them. Replace pads as required.
If they are at minimum spec, you can still use them. Just replace the pads next time when there is still 1/8" left. Don't run the pads down to nothing if your rotors are below spec.
I've never turned rotors on any landcruiser. No point. Just replace them when they're warped or worn out.
On other vehicles, where the rotors are slip-on like a new RX350 or whatever, you can turn your rotors each time you replace pads. The labor to r&r the rotor is minutes, not hours.
I rarely turn my rotors, when I recently did my front axle I just put the same rotors back on...if the pads are more than half toasted i might replace them...i did not
- Thread starter
- #11
the truck stops fine i was just thinking since i was in there. i guess ill just wait and buy the vented ones i want anyway. thanks guys
I wouldn't waste money on vented rotors either........
x2 on this. Vented rotors have no place on a street driven vehicle. I had one disintegrate on a hot lap during autocrossing (brembo rotor). I'll run orbital slotted rotors (had them on my Audi), but know that vented rotors are made for laps on a track, not years on the street.
If vented you mean holes.....yes I agree.
I highly recommend Cryo Slotted rotors.... I put a pair on my 96 Suburban and they significatantly increased my brake performance. I ran them with Stock GM pads.
When I do my front end, I will be replacing the rotors with Cryo Slotted rotors.
IMHO
Stu
asutherland
VA7 HDT
They're too close to allow for a bit of variance in the production of the parts...one side I was fine, the other did not fit (even with the pad shim off) We're talking like 60 thou here...
That's a Suburban, not an 80. Suburban's are known for terrible braking performance (among other terrible things).
A stock 80 will stop in just as short a distance as vehicles half it's weight.
You will increase braking performance with performance rotors or pads on a vehicle like a Suburban. You won't on an 80.
Now if you're swapping 16+ year old parts for new parts, yeah, you'll see an improvement. But not because vented or slotted rotors are better, but because you're doing a brake refresh. You could put on the crappiest aftermarket parts you could find and see an improvement.
Long story short, you are not going to improve on OEM. The only way to improve braking distance is by changing the tire, not the braking components.
Unless you're gonna run autocross, there's no real benefit to use performance parts on an 80. There's a whole bunch of down sides, however, such as more likely to warp the rotor, dirt/mud/clay/etc gets into the holes/grooves and ruins the rotor (if you're lucky, the caliper as well if you aren't), etc.
Ebag333 said:
Huh?
Please explain.
REKCUT
SILVER Star
As messy a job as it is to replace rotors, if I already had it apart I would put new on unless i knew they were almost new.
If your rotors are juddering then you might have pad imprinting. You can use a sander on both faces to break the glaze and you can still use whatever pads imprinted your rotors, but they can do it again. Properly bedded metallic compound pads like Hawk don't imprint.
