To Turbo or Not Turbo? (4 Viewers)

[obe12]

Hum, ok… good info.
One thing I can confirm with the oem modification valve body I bought and installed. It does shift good, now it wasn’t bad before NA. However it claims different lock up. I can confirm that is different. Converter use to unlock with about 1/3 gas throttle, now it’s 1/2 I notice. Also it claims off roading with their module to keep the cover locked when off roading step decents, maintain engine braking. I have tried that yet. I do take my cruiser to Colorado, and have low crawl with 10% underdrive in the transfer case. I have a lot of engine braking now.

All good info…

I have freshened up A340F/H trans before 4 of them . Fairly heavy duty far as bushing, needle bearings and heaviness of drums ect.

Haven’t seen hard parts trashed yet.

Don’t mean it want happen.

Haven’t done the 5 speed or 4 speed with electronic line control pressure.

Haltech recommend a line pressure feedback gauge to their system if you bring in the auto trans control to it on earlier trans.

Time will tell, in it allowed to the shift kit, cleaning the valve body … have had triple stackes Older Mercedes apart and these parts a few times.
Clean and light de burr the valves and has no issues.

So a aftermarket trans shift kit should be fairly easy

All good info

Lazy shifting trans I do not like at all!

 

[jjdeneen918]

Kewl, good info… my 94 obd1 will need a Haltech for the Fuel Injection system for fuel control.

It’s around 245k now , just bought it. .. last owner had it 7-8 years and was OCD on records, how he kept the truck. He has all repairs documented and previous owner records too.

Hopefully, oil changes and air filter maintenance was kept up to not have scorn cylinders. Owner reported 1-2-2/3 qt synthetic added between intervals 5000 miles.

If the cylinders are good shape, I will put the money into the head. It will need a Head gasket eventually, bite the bullet and do it now. ARP stud the head and oem gasket.

If valves faces are worn, just install a complete set of valves and guides, and valve grind the seats,
Valve seals and shims.

Change all the coolant hoses as preventable to blowing a hose and have an overheat.

It sounding like the turbo is a good thing and can turbo a stock engine with success.

For my use, not really interested in a major engine rebuild with doing a turbo. That some big money into an 30 year old truck. It’s a clean 30 year old for sure. If I can nurse 30-50k more miles it will suit me just fine and have extra power.

Glad to know you turbo a 200 k mile plus engine with success.

An extra 100 crank HP would be nice for all my needs.

If the engine locked up, I would do a 2UZ swap, possible VVTI or non VVTI SC 2UZ like I am setting up in my 100 series now.

No Haltech required, and keep it yota too.

All great info… thanks

I went with a Cometic HG.

I think my machine shop decked the head 0.006”. So I ordered the Cometic HG that brought the HG thickness to compensate for that loss of material taken off & essentially brought the HG thickness to bring the compression back to stock height.

Cometic HG has several different thicknesses to choose from. They are very nice, high quality pieces. Would definitely recommend based on options & quality.

I didn’t want an OEM gasket, it would have upped my compression ratio, given the head being decked. I wanted to keep that number the same as OEM, since I was doing forced induction/turbo at the same time.

I also did the trans go kit at the truck setting. Performance in shifts were noticeable for sure.

 

[obe12]

I went with a Cometic HG.

I think my machine shop decked the head 0.006”. So I ordered the Cometic HG that brought the HG thickness to compensate for that loss of material taken off & essentially brought the HG thickness to bring the compression back to stock height.

Cometic HG has several different thicknesses to choose from. They are very nice, high quality pieces. Would definitely recommend based on options & quality.

I didn’t want an OEM gasket, it would have upped my compression ratio, given the head being decked. I wanted to keep that number the same as OEM, since I was doing forced induction/turbo at the same time.

I also did the trans go kit at the truck setting. Performance in shifts were noticeable for sure.

Do you happen to remember the Base thickness for the Cometic if you do not need the head decked? HDAuto sells two selections I imagine are common, Cometic has a wide range to pick from. 6 tho isnt a lot. but it is now flat and surface aka scratch accepting of the new Cometic gasket.

Where you building a complete engine when you did this of top end in the truck? Since a machine shop did the work, how many miles where on the head and did it need any valves or guides?

Trying to anticipate my fate ... Back when I owed and operated a shop, I see the same things over and over again. Kinda knew these set of heads, deck, pressure, test would need guides, and if overheated CRACKED or not. Want get into the "brands" but I did a lot of head and head gaskets back in the day. These 1FE were new at the time and not enough miles on them to see HG issues.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I just did the top end. Kept the OEM valves & springs, went OEM with seals & stuff.

I don’t recall the thickness. Somebody should know & chime in, then it’s simple math to get the one you need.

It’s been 10,000 miles & several years now, no issues.

 

[obe12]

I just did the top end. Kept the OEM valves & springs, went OEM with seals & stuff.

I don’t recall the thickness. Somebody should know & chime in, then it’s simple math to get the one you need.

It’s been 10,000 miles & several years now, no issues.

Hey Like the 45 Colt or Kimber or other .. Have them myself Kimber ACP and ACE .22

 

[jjdeneen918]

Lots of info on turbos & dyno numbers here. Starting about page 171. A very long thread.

Bolt on turbo kit

Joey, may I kiss you feet if we ever meet ?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[obe12]

Lots of info on turbos & dyno numbers here. Starting about page 171. A very long thread.

Bolt on turbo kit

Joey, may I kiss you feet if we ever meet ?

forum.ih8mud.com

I am emailing HDAutomotove “Matt” he is working a quote for me. Taking his advice into account from their local customers and their own shop with dyno results,

I chose the External waste gate Turbo kit , why, no turbo boost creep, and can 3 port modulate exact boost pressures and get this air injection manifold off the truck and replace it with a 6boost manifold. There is extra cost for this for sure. Matt claims PDI if I remember that right, they have an intercooler that works with an ARB bumper / with a winch and provides better intercooling than water he claims they see in their shop on dyno results. Ok, fine Air to air. I may target 8-10 91-93 octane and e85 up to 15 psi with a custom timing map if that can be programmed via the haltech.

I went ahead and having Matt quote thicker head comectic head gasket he says they use, with 3 inch exhaust complete stainless exhaust Down pipe connection mod required back. Ditch these two header pipes to cat system with outdated o2 sensors. It was pointed out a 4 inch intake leaving the air intake to the air box at stock location not pulling in engine bay heat.

So, if I do this go all in on a quality kit and remove the head, do a top head work at a minimum.

My bore scope inspection is looking dam good, cross hatch still in the cylinder walls, and thrust side of block very little scoring. Open valves actually look pretty good and not carboned up on the intake. Narrow contact patch on the valves now and should valve job pretty easy. Valve faces so far don’t look pitted that much on the exhaust. Maybe will not need valves.

I coolant pressure test the system 13 psi for 45 mins. And about to removed the back 3 plugs and look at those cylinders. I may for grind drain the coolant down some remove the fan ans shroud to get a breaker bar on the crank and do a cylinder leak down test like we do on aircraft engines to see how much the rings are sealing and valves. If I get good results, I will warm the engine up and pull PCV load the engine and see about blow by.

I like to have some kind of engine health before jumping on the turbo upgrade.

Truck made the journey perfectly, no damage being delivered. No ECU codes in the trans/ engine and runs good. I think I hear a timing chain rattle like a 22RE did on start up. That will need to be addressed if I only pull the head and replace the chain and guides. I am right on the edge to pull the engine… drop the pans and replace the bearings and rings. A lot of work for sure, at what point do you heck with it and bore the block or not. Another 4 grand, buy a new yota short block? Yeah a stopping point is here somewhere.

I would like to not to pull the engine If I dont have too. Sure be easier to do the work on it if I did. Tho, Yeah weighing it out.

Ok, if the block can make standard has anyone just replaced the pistons , rings and bearings and need happy at the end? Or reused the OEM pistons?

I see std size aftermarket pistons and rings reassembly priced, who knows if they are junk tho.

Anyone else cross this bridge and can chime in on their person esperiance ?

One guy on the Mud replaces the lower end with new yota short blocks. If you have the money not a bad way to go.

Ok, all ears … truck is here now evaluating it now. I drive it a few days / couple of weeks and see how she does. Not my 100 bust she is smooth.

Take care

Tex

 

[CJK]

@Cruisers and Co has something upcoming for Turbo kit. Maybe they can chime in and help you out, too

 

[obe12]

@Cruisers and Co has something upcoming for Turbo kit. Maybe they can chime in and help you out, too

Alrighty !

Thanks

 

[Cruisers and Co]

@CJK thanks for the tag. @obe12 we do have a turbo kit that is about to be released for the 95-97's. We will be working on the 93/94's very soon and have already talked to a few people about borrowing their 93/94 to make it happen. If there's anything I can answer or help with please let me know!

Thanks
-Johnny

 

[obe12]

@CJK thanks for the tag. @obe12 we do have a turbo kit that is about to be released for the 95-97's. We will be working on the 93/94's very soon and have already talked to a few people about borrowing their 93/94 to make it happen. If there's anything I can answer or help with please let me know!

Thanks
-Johnny

I like to visit with you on the phone, if possible.
Cuss and discuss options, and what plans you are doing to accommodate the FZJ80.

I am planning Haltech gear, 2500 elite, canbus wide band, 4-1 canbus exhaust, Boost controller, 1 bar baro sensor for altitude compensation, e85 ethanol sensor, with an intercooler.

Cometic head gasket change with ARP studs and top head overhaul .

Lower unknown just yet. In the evaluation now…
245k maintenance records last owner 7-8 years and previous owner. Well maintained clean 80 I found and has shipped to me.

I build have built small airplanes and have a lot of tools. Lathe , mill, water cooled TIG, ect ..
looking work with a USA distributer if possible for a solution.

Tex

 

[obe12]

I like to visit with you on the phone, if possible.
Cuss and discuss options, and what plans you are doing to accommodate the FZJ80.

I am planning Haltech gear, 2500 elite, canbus wide band, 4-1 canbus exhaust, Boost controller, 1 bar baro sensor for altitude compensation, e85 ethanol sensor, with an intercooler.

Cometic head gasket change with ARP studs and top head overhaul .

Lower unknown just yet. In the evaluation now…
245k maintenance records last owner 7-8 years and previous owner. Well maintained clean 80 I found and has shipped to me.

I build have built small airplanes and have a lot of tools. Lathe , mill, water cooled TIG, ect ..
looking work with a USA distributer if possible for a solution.

Tex

We’ll borescope look pretty darn good at this age and mileage. The leak down. 3 cylinders 12% just below tdc at BTDC a few degrees and fail off just as the piston is short of topping out.
2 are 22% same way
1 is 35% sounds from exhaust and crankcase.

No coolant in any cylinder with pressure test 12 psi for 45 mins. Head gasket holding… now.
No Coolant in number 6 .

Timing chain has backlash of corse and collapses the tensioner when rolled backwards. I don’t know if this tensioner is ratchet locking system or not or just oil pressure tensioned.

The report as of now…

Dang have to drop coolant down to get the back plug out… what’s up with that! The drain on the radiator hum it’s protected alright. Hard to drain the coolant and not make a mess. Hose on the nipple and leaks around the drain cock a little great.
Learning the 80 as we go…

So a valve job for sure, possibly chain, guides and tensioner at the very least.

Anyone have a good contact on a new Toyota Short block? My price is 4000 I think shipped maybe sales tax to add to it.

Tex

 

[obe12]

We’ll borescope look pretty darn good at this age and mileage. The leak down. 3 cylinders 12% just below tdc at BTDC a few degrees and fail off just as the piston is short of topping out.
2 are 22% same way
1 is 35% sounds from exhaust and crankcase.

No coolant in any cylinder with pressure test 12 psi for 45 mins. Head gasket holding… now.
No Coolant in number 6 .

Timing chain has backlash of corse and collapses the tensioner when rolled backwards. I don’t know if this tensioner is ratchet locking system or not or just oil pressure tensioned.

The report as of now…

Dang have to drop coolant down to get the back plug out… what’s up with that! The drain on the radiator hum it’s protected alright. Hard to drain the coolant and not make a mess. Hose on the nipple and leaks around the drain cock a little great.
Learning the 80 as we go…

So a valve job for sure, possibly chain, guides and tensioner at the very least.

Anyone have a good contact on a new Toyota Short block? My price is 4000 I think shipped maybe sales tax to add to it.

Tex

Dang this engine after the new plugs, one center ceramic spins inside the metal threat. So got new plugs for it. Dang engine purrs sound fantastic, leak down is lower on one, dirty valves or just not sealing great, but it runs really good. Normally stake the valve and try and seal them. Cranking compression was 170 ish and not that bad.

I got it out and drove it tonight, and got it on the hiway… 2500 rpm @70. More RPM isn’t the answer and can benefit for more torque and power at the RPM. TURBO time ! Back when 55 the gearing works. At 70-80 it starts falling short. 60-65 not bad at all. Tonight bucked 16 MPH headwinds and found this to be the case. Now with the 16 MPH tail wind, runs fantastic. Just my observations I made tonight doing actual hiway driving.

So he we go… how deep to dive into the engine and upgrade it too.

Tex

 

[scottryana]

Don't know the history of your cruiser but if it has been used for a lot of short trips, not gotten up to temp, run rich because of the temp correction, etc it might need a good "Italian Tune" get it good and hot and downshift it manually to get the revs up, pull a nice long steep hill in 2nd gear with the RPM's at 4500+ it won't hurt it and might knock some of that old carbon loose.

 

[obe12]

Don't know the history of your cruiser but if it has been used for a lot of short trips, not gotten up to temp, run rich because of the temp correction, etc it might need a good "Italian Tune" get it good and hot and downshift it manually to get the revs up, pull a nice long steep hill in 2nd gear with the RPM's at 4500+ it won't hurt it and might knock some of that old carbon loose.

Right…
Believe it or not we normally don’t do cranking compressions on piston aircraft engines “air cooled”, just leak down testing.

I have seen Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil and gas actually help compressions on aircraft engines, get them warm and fly hi power.

When I used the bore scope the lower cylinder leak Down cylinders they did had more carbon build up.

Funny you say Italian Tune up! Knock the carbon off!


Tex

 

[obe12]

Well HD Automotive get back to me. They sure have the stuff to do a complete though out project.

The plan, I Marvel mystery oil my oil and gas on my 80 and driving it now. At time of take down I will recheck the leak down on 3 of the cylinders just to see if improvement happened or not. But I will just pull the engine out. Clean the 30
Year old frame from ps leak , old oil leaks in the past and paint any no treated areas for rust prevention.

The engine plan: remove head, check for flatness and valve seat / face wear, guides and plan it rebuild. Ruff bore check of egg shape cylinders. Flip it over and have a look see slid a piston out on the worse looking cylinder and let the mic tell the story.
Will it hold rings? Will it need pistons and rings? Crank make standard ?

Evaluate it completly

A: rings and bearings on the block
Redo the head , back together with possible cosmetic head gasket if block is good enough.

B: go with turbo engine build, all out pistons, rods forged and bore block. Redone head with cosmetic gasket / studs.

C: new yota short block with reworked head with cosmetic head gasket/ studs.

The shape of the block and head will shape the outcome.

Order every new coolant oem hose I could get. Denso 1st used starter, alternator… found Asian oil pump complete cover if needed, and new timing chain system. Found an oil filter adapter to allow the oil filter to be straight up and down, is this a good thing or not?

Maybe someone chime in, please.

Also, timing chain my manual shows a ratchet type system, but mine is not. Any thought’s on replacing
It with or without a ratchet tensioner?


Then,
External easier gate kit, 6boost manifold, 3 inch exhaust turbo down pipe back, new air filter housing 4 inch, intercooler with piping and Heavy duty trans cooler relocation, new injectors, fuel pressure adjustable regulator, fuel pump , complete 2500 haltech with 1 bar map altitude correction,
Ethanol sensor, wide band, 4-1 gauge, intake air sensor, custom boomslang parallel plug and play harness.

Change out the old exhaust manifold with air tubes, old exhaust system, have a selectable tuned system 325-450 HP on 93 gas or more boost on e85 if desired.

Then will have to address the trans… will try the shift kit / enlarge separator plate option first for the A442 trans.

Like anything it’s a plan, subject to change.

Plaint is 9.0 out of 10, very little door dings in 30 years, straight body, no rust truck. Original paint, never painted on or wrecked. Interior 9.5 out of 10. Nearly perfect. Inside bezels cracked on door opening handles. Bought 4 new ones the right color. Seats 9 out of 10. Like stepping back in time. Someone took care of this 80 throughout its life. Over 10 years of maintenance records I got with it.


Has Cloth interior , yeah or na … head liner 8.5 out of 10. So this truck is worth putting an investment in. This truck still has weather tech mats throughout. The back side panels not beat up too. Still has original owners manual, keyless entry book, tool kit with jack. Crazy…

My good friend say, there is treatment for me with Landcruiser sickness… I own two now.

 

[obe12]

How To Turbo Your 1FZ-FE - HD Automotive

Once upon a time, people like you and I, 4wd lovers and off-road enthusiasts have thrown the 1FZ-FE engine found in the FZJ80 and FZJ105 Toyota Landcruiser's

hdautomotive.com.au

This is a good read if you get a chance. Talks about Turbo a 1FE and their experiences.

Tex

 

[Wompom]

How To Turbo Your 1FZ-FE - HD Automotive

Once upon a time, people like you and I, 4wd lovers and off-road enthusiasts have thrown the 1FZ-FE engine found in the FZJ80 and FZJ105 Toyota Landcruiser's

hdautomotive.com.au

This is a good read if you get a chance. Talks about Turbo a 1FE and their experiences.

Tex

FYI this link is broken

 

[Pippylongsausage]

I’m late to the party but I turbod mine and used the haltech 2500 and it’s been great but not without its problems. Most of those are unrelated to the turbo and are my own fault (fuel pump problems, screwed up my transgo install and ruined my transmission, had issues with exhaust leaks, etc). I used a borgwarner 7670 turbo with an air to air intercooler and homemade j pipe manifold and down pipe.

I am running the transmission off the stock ecu. Running the transmission off the haltech looks fairly straightforward but still a little intimidating. Hoping someone figures it out and can walk me through it eventually. I’m slowly switching systems over to haltech one at a time. Each one has its own challenges but they’re all achievable.

All in all I’d say it’s totally worth it but be ready for a long project as there’s a lot to work through. My truck really woke up once I got most of the bugs worked out (still plenty to tackle).

 

[obe12]

I’m late to the party but I turbod mine and used the haltech 2500 and it’s been great but not without its problems. Most of those are unrelated to the turbo and are my own fault (fuel pump problems, screwed up my transgo install and ruined my transmission, had issues with exhaust leaks, etc). I used a borgwarner 7670 turbo with an air to air intercooler and homemade j pipe manifold and down pipe.

I am running the transmission off the stock ecu. Running the transmission off the haltech looks fairly straightforward but still a little intimidating. Hoping someone figures it out and can walk me through it eventually. I’m slowly switching systems over to haltech one at a time. Each one has its own challenges but they’re all achievable.

All in all I’d say it’s totally worth it but be ready for a long project as there’s a lot to work through. My truck really woke up once I got most of the bugs worked out (still plenty to tackle).

Ok, I am all ears on the tansgo, What happened ?
Also, exhaust leaks, where where they?

J pipe or complete manifold!

Fuel pump, was that from not changing it and fuel pressure regulator?

Injectors, did you change or use stock one?

Your year, OBD1 or OBD2 ?

How long ago did you tackle this project?

Did you install a wide band and tune yourself or dyno tune?

Sorry for all the questions, I am facing similar situations myself.


Thanks

Tex