Stereo / Audio question FJZ80 (1 Viewer)

[MrOffshore]

Ok...some of you know, I am new here, I know how to use the "search" button, but I can't seem to find a specific answer to my question.

There seems to be a lot of questions about speaker sizes, depth of speakers, etc, so I won't bore you with that question, I'm simply going to pull a few speakers from various positions and begin my search for speakers that possibly fit behind the stock covers without a lot of modifications...sound is important, but I am not an audiophile so even something mid quality should suffice...I will report my findings for those of you wondering what currently is available and capable of fitting behind the stock covers...hate the idea of putting aftermarket speaker covers on my doors but it might be only choice.

On to my question...or concern...the way I see it my truck (95 LC) has a head unit and 9 speakers...not all of which work but I have identified 9 speaker covers. Two below the dash, two in the front doors, two in the rear doors, two up high in the rear and the 9th in the rear side panel...suspecting this is the factory subwoofer.

When I replace my head unit, I am imaginging I will need to get a wiring adaptor...by simply plugging this in to the head unit and replacing all speakers (as some are blown or at least aren't emitting any sound) will the system come back to life? Isn't there a factory amp for the subwoofer? If so, should I disable it and add a new amp and subwoofer? Should I disable or choose not to use the other 8 speakers...if I choose to use them will they all work with a simple wiring adaptor? Does anyone know the best place to get an adaptor? Where is the factory amp located (if I do indeed have one)? Am I better off disabling some of the speakers...I've read where I would be spreading the power too thin.

My new head unit is a Pyle Double Din AM/FM/CD/DVD player with 80 watts per channel (four channel). I am a do-it-yourself guy, but not if I am going to go crazy figuring this thing out. Any ideas or help would be appreciated...just not sure what to do at this end. Thanks.

 

[HntWhtTail]

First off I have drank way more #6's than would be alloweed to drive but I am staring at my laptop at Midnight so I will chime in with my 2 cents. IMHO Replacing the head unit is a must, replacing the front and rear door speakers most deffinetly the factory sub if you dont care about bass not necessary, just pull the panel and cut the wires, the rear cargo speakers are not noticeable, if you replace the front, and rear doors. You can cut the wires while you have the back panel off. The wiring harness is most likely available anywhere they sell car audio Walmart even sells them. As for the factory amp I am running my Kenwood unit through it and it sounds great, considering it is 12 years old. People spend alot of money for old amps every day. I do not know who made the amp but with the right crossover frequencys set it reproduces clean very loud sound. When looking for a head unit look for something that has adjustable crossover front rear and sub I have pioneer speakers in front and rear and an infinity basslink 10 wired into the factory wires: search " ghetto install" I am not an audiophile by anymeans but I do know the difference in good and bad sound.
Just re read post so to sum up connect your head unit to factory amp through harness(purchased seperatlly) disonnect sub and rear cargo speaker(cut wires behind pass rear panel) replace front and rear door speakers. front dash speakers disconnect cut wires remove whatever... If you need more bass adda powerd sub many threads about options.

 

[cruiser37]

Replacing the head unit and the front door speakers should be your first priority. You can still use the factory amp and if you decide to add an amp down the road, you can always bypass it. Rockford Fosgate Punch FRC4206U speakers will fit behind the front door panels and JL Audio TR400-CXi speakers will fit in the dash with no modifications.

I wasn't happy with the sound of the speakers that fit behind the door panels, so I replaced them with polk speakers.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/327663-front-door-speaker-upgrade.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/329297-rear-door-speaker-upgrade.html

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Replacing the HU alone in my rig made a HUGE difference in sound quality

Dumping the factory sub and stepping up to a mild aftermarket sub setup made it perfect for my needs

 

[sailor]

The stock speakers were totally falling apart when I changed 'em. (but my truck is an ancient '91!) changing the HU and fronts made a hell of a difference. I bypassed the stock amp and used Kenwood Excelon components so I suspect I have similar power out put as the old stock amp (?) Anyway- works for me and fits behind the stock grilles with no cutting. Picked up one of those generic double DIN to single Din with a cubby below. The bluetooth cell phone option is worth getting. Love it. Heres the link to the dummy install https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/330003-front-speakers-under-stock-grilles-more.html

 

[MrOffshore]

I took my door panels apart and removed at least on speaker from each location including the lower front dash, front doors, rear doors, high mounted rears and the subwoofer (which was totally destroyed and eaten away all the way around). Not the most impressive speakers.

I guess I will install the new head unit with an adaptor wiring kit...not sure where the speaker amp is (the one I understand is in the front)...I see the amp for the rear subwoofer...if I install a new subwoofer, should I use the amp (if it still works) or should I just install a new amp or just run the sub out from my new unit to the sub (guessing that you wouldn't need an amp, or am I wrong?) I don't mind spending a few more dollars and installing a few low dollar, low watt amps...if needed. Still a bit confused as to what I should do to get the most bang for my buck.

As far as the rear sub goes, I do want a little bass in there...it would be nice to not have the bass being put into a few two-way speakers. I would like to find a completely concealed subwoofer, I saw one on here somewhere but will need to look some more...I saw another nice install with a wood mounting bracket fabbed up...seems like it would work although it's not an enclosed sub then...but then again neither was the factory setup. I think there's room in this compartment for a small amp if needed, although it might not be secured all that well in the compartment.

I guess I need to locate the factory amp for the regular speakers and decide if I am going to use all the speaker locations how I am going to do this as far as wiring it up to a new unit. I appreciate all the input...thanks!!

 

[kennyfj40]

On my 94 the amp was behind the passenger side speaker in the dash. I dropped the glove box and the speaker cover and removed mine when upgrading the stereo. Not sure if it is in the same place on a 95 though.

 

[MrOffshore]

I'll take a look there...I pulled that speaker out but didn't look too closely at what else was in there. Did you replace the amp with anything else or just power off the head unit?

 

[greentruck]

AFAIK, the primary amp is behind the dash on the PS on all year 80 series. The subwoofer amp and speaker are in the right rear cargo area.

My speakers led a sheltered life and seem to work fine. I used the adaptor harness and kept the OEM amps so far. You can always ditch them later if you get ambitious, but keeping the OEM for now makes for a clean, simple install. The adaptor hooks 'em right up for you, no muss, no fuss.

 

[firetruck41]

Dump the amp, any modern head unit will power the speakers better than the stock amp. Disconnect the dash speakers, just get new speakers for the doors (polk 6.5" are great), and worry about adding a subwoofer later. The sound will be much better than stock.