With recent problems with the EMS Powered folks (best I can figure they basically got kicked of the site for scamming people or being non-responsive?), is it back to the drawing board for finding a well made turbo kit/reliable vender?
So are we back to the drawing board for turbo kits? (1 Viewer)
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They(EMS) are back and have responded in the thread in chat. It looks like one person made it their personal goal in life to make their life miserable because EMS wasn't developing 100 series headers as fast as they would like.
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
I have seen and driven in one with the CXRacing Kit. Nice Setup for the cost. Intercooler should be slightly smaller.
2k why do you say that the intercooler should be smaller? Just to fit better or pressure drop?
- Thread starter
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Okay, the last time I read that post it was on page 2, now it's on page 4. I'm up to speed now. No indications of scamming, just sounds like they're busy and understaffed.
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
Just size wise it was overkill. Also was poking out a few inches under the stock bumper. Waiting to be smashed. I think a smaller one will fit much better and still do its job.
Checked out the CX kit. Looks nice.
How much would tuning add to the total cost?
Link to CX racing 80 series kit. http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...RB-KIT-1FZFE-T70-IC&Attributes=Yes&Quantity=1
How much would tuning add to the total cost?
Link to CX racing 80 series kit. http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...RB-KIT-1FZFE-T70-IC&Attributes=Yes&Quantity=1
It is a good looking kit, I am curious for someone to try it. It is a big turbo for the application but to run low boost and provide enough volume it needs to be pretty large, the only downside to that is it will have turbo lag, upside is that it can potentially work with stock fueling since it won't be boosting until open loop.
If you want to run this past stock fueling and tune, you would need a computer of some sort, injectors and possibly fuel pump. A turbo this size can easily lift the head if turned to max potential.
If you want to run this past stock fueling and tune, you would need a computer of some sort, injectors and possibly fuel pump. A turbo this size can easily lift the head if turned to max potential.
In general, how much would you guys add to the price for preparing the engine, assuming your truck's been PMd, but that you've not gone completely mental (known henceforth as "pulling a Scottryana") on the engine restore?
That price is really tempting, but I'd be hazarding a guess at a total price of 5k including preparation and installation labor.
Am I far off?
A bare minimum for me would be a head gasket R&R, so that's about $1200 if you don't get crazy with the "while I am in there tasks" then you should be good for quite a while at low boost and stock fueling. But if you have plans to turn the boost up at some point you will want to change the head studs ~$250, have the head gone through ~$600-800, and then at that point you need injectors ~$350-600, fuel pump $180, and a computer $600-1800.
Annnd just because I am a hater, have about $1300 set aside for when that Chinese turbo dies and you need another one
Annnd just because I am a hater, have about $1300 set aside for when that Chinese turbo dies and you need another one
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A bare minimum for me would be a head gasket R&R, so that's about $1200 if you don't get crazy with the "while I am in there tasks" then you should be good for quite a while at low boost and stock fueling. But if you have plans to turn the boost up at some point you will want to change the head studs ~$250, have the head gone through ~$600-800, and then at that point you need injectors ~$350-600, fuel pump $180, and a computer $600-1800.
Annnd just because I am a hater, have about $1300 set aside for when that Chinese turbo dies and you need another one
That is truly useful info. Thanks.
That turbo is massive on that CX racing kit, I would swap that out right away. Hell my Supra with a 2JZ had a smaller turbo and made 420whp at 11psi.
Yeah the T72 and T76 that it says it can use are way way overkill, both are 1000+ hp turbos. While it doesn't say it looking at the turbo specs from the kit it has a 62, which while still big not as ridiculous as the T72,and T76 options.
OK, I want to break this down and have someone confirm my interpretation of the turbos in the CX kits.
the specs of teh kits are listed:
Turbo and Wastegate:
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Wet Floating Bearings
- Oil + Water Cooling
- 1/8" NPT Feeding. M8 x1.25 Return Flange Mounting Screws
- Standard T4 Flange
- 76mm Wheel Compressor
- P Trim .81 A/R Turbine
- 102.4mm/76.7 Compressor Wheel
- 74.1mm/64.6mm
- 3" V-band Hot Side
- 50mm 10 psi Wastegate
so if trim = {inducer^2 / exduder^2} x 100,
then the compressor wheel is 56 trim.
or
Turbo and Wastegate:
- Standard T4 Flange to Manifold
- 0.70 A/R Compressor, 0.81 A/R Turbine
- Big 4" Air Inlet, 2.5" Air outlet
- 3" V-Band Exhaust
- Wet Floating Bearings
- Oil Cooled
- Big HP 400-500 HP
- 91mm/61mm Compressor Wheel , 74.7mm/62mm Turbine Wheel
- 50mm 10 psi Wastegate
this compressor is 45 trim.
With the 61mm wheel, the smaller of these two turbos looks like it could easily flow over 60 lb/min or 600hp. It looks similar to the garret T04S or the Precision 61mm. The larger turbo looks ridiculous. 71mm compressor wheels with those turbines make 1000hp. These kits look like they are targeting big power through full supporting mods and big boost. The way the turbos are setup doesnt support the type of early torque powerbands most of us are looking for.
Basically, if someone were trying to maintain the stock fueling system, both of these are way too big. I dont think either of them would get close their most efficient range of operation with less than 10 psi. You would probably max out the injectors at 7 psi before even getting to closed loop like Scottryana said.
Most of the people doing a turbo kit around here have no intentions of doing the gasket work, headstuds, standalone, and perhaps ignition required to fully exploit all this turbo hardware.
ALso, Scottryana, can you please point me to a thread or PM me about this comment
the specs of teh kits are listed:
Turbo and Wastegate:
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Wet Floating Bearings
- Oil + Water Cooling
- 1/8" NPT Feeding. M8 x1.25 Return Flange Mounting Screws
- Standard T4 Flange
- 76mm Wheel Compressor
- P Trim .81 A/R Turbine
- 102.4mm/76.7 Compressor Wheel
- 74.1mm/64.6mm
- 3" V-band Hot Side
- 50mm 10 psi Wastegate
so if trim = {inducer^2 / exduder^2} x 100,
then the compressor wheel is 56 trim.
or
Turbo and Wastegate:
- Standard T4 Flange to Manifold
- 0.70 A/R Compressor, 0.81 A/R Turbine
- Big 4" Air Inlet, 2.5" Air outlet
- 3" V-Band Exhaust
- Wet Floating Bearings
- Oil Cooled
- Big HP 400-500 HP
- 91mm/61mm Compressor Wheel , 74.7mm/62mm Turbine Wheel
- 50mm 10 psi Wastegate
this compressor is 45 trim.
With the 61mm wheel, the smaller of these two turbos looks like it could easily flow over 60 lb/min or 600hp. It looks similar to the garret T04S or the Precision 61mm. The larger turbo looks ridiculous. 71mm compressor wheels with those turbines make 1000hp. These kits look like they are targeting big power through full supporting mods and big boost. The way the turbos are setup doesnt support the type of early torque powerbands most of us are looking for.
Basically, if someone were trying to maintain the stock fueling system, both of these are way too big. I dont think either of them would get close their most efficient range of operation with less than 10 psi. You would probably max out the injectors at 7 psi before even getting to closed loop like Scottryana said.
Most of the people doing a turbo kit around here have no intentions of doing the gasket work, headstuds, standalone, and perhaps ignition required to fully exploit all this turbo hardware.
ALso, Scottryana, can you please point me to a thread or PM me about this comment
Yes like I said earlier the 72 and 76 turbos that are options with this kit are ridiculous.
The 61/62 turbo would be fine. The problem you have with running low boost is that you need to run a big enough turbo to supply the air needs of the engine as it revs. The 62 is actually fairly well suited to doing this because it has turbo lag and as the boost comes on the engine is probably going to be in open loop anyways and you will get your extra fuel. Pretty much the same way the TRD supercharger does it.
To actually make more power you will have to do as you say and do the headgasket, ARP studs, piggyback at the least and don't forget the transmission work.
Not sure what you are asking about the comment. If you are going to run any forced induction at the bare minimum I would replace the stock headgasket which is known to go even while NA.
The 61/62 turbo would be fine. The problem you have with running low boost is that you need to run a big enough turbo to supply the air needs of the engine as it revs. The 62 is actually fairly well suited to doing this because it has turbo lag and as the boost comes on the engine is probably going to be in open loop anyways and you will get your extra fuel. Pretty much the same way the TRD supercharger does it.
To actually make more power you will have to do as you say and do the headgasket, ARP studs, piggyback at the least and don't forget the transmission work.
Not sure what you are asking about the comment. If you are going to run any forced induction at the bare minimum I would replace the stock headgasket which is known to go even while NA.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
can't believe no one it's running the CX Racing kit yet ..
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
Like I said before, I went for a ride in the rig in the pictures which was there test truck and it did have major lag, don't really start to feel the "push" until you hit close to 4000rpms and up. Would be great if we had a 9000 redline.
I'm sure CX would be amenable to putting together an order with a more appropriate turbo. Just a question of which one is ideal for the task.
As to whether the IC is overkill: It's not overkill. It's just the wrong shape, and in the wrong place.
Someone needs to figure out an IC that can sit behind the factory grille. Might be a way to do it with a 1" core. The difficulty is that i don't think the stock rad can move back much, or at all, due to fan clearance. and if you have a 2nd battery i don't know where you are going to route the plumbing.
And CX's thinnest cores are 2.5" thick.
Maybe a solution includes an electric fan replacing the oem fan.
As to whether the IC is overkill: It's not overkill. It's just the wrong shape, and in the wrong place.
Someone needs to figure out an IC that can sit behind the factory grille. Might be a way to do it with a 1" core. The difficulty is that i don't think the stock rad can move back much, or at all, due to fan clearance. and if you have a 2nd battery i don't know where you are going to route the plumbing.
And CX's thinnest cores are 2.5" thick.
Maybe a solution includes an electric fan replacing the oem fan.
