- Thread starter
- #81
Back again...
Head is ready to be sent off to be rebuilt.
Head is ready to be sent off to be rebuilt.
Smoking battery cables? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Waterboy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
We went from timing to the head coming off for a rebuild ?
What did you find to point you there ?
What did you find to point you there ?
- Thread starter
- #83
Decided to do compression check again to see if anything had changed. All was good till I got to #6 cylinder. It had no compression at all. Decided to have the head rebuilt and see what happens. This should solve everything as the problem was getting worse and not better. Hoping to have this thing purring by the end of the year (Hectic work schedule).
Got pics from the cylinder walls ?
how do you go from 120-0 in two months? I would run another test. Even if it is 0 why do you think it is the head verse the rings/pistons/cylinder walls?
- Thread starter
- #86
In all honestly I don't know. I work with a couple of engineers who are car guys and suggested that a broken valve or a stuck valve could be the issue. I will post pics of the cylender walls when I get the head off. I'm am doing stuff I have never done before so I'm taking it slow. Any suggestions are welcomed. Last time this engine ran was in 1985. For a $175 a head rebuild just seems like a good idea.
- Thread starter
- #87
Head Off
Well I pulled the head off and this is what it looks like. I did not have time to turn the crank to expose more of number 6 cylinder. I had to help my father some. I had a couple of questions for you guys:
1. Whats the best way to clean off the top of the block? I already scraped off the gasket as much as I could. Is it possible to wire wheel it real lightly?
2. What do you guys think of the cylinder walls? I know you cant see much but was just curious on your initial thoughts.
3. Looks like the head gasket was pretty shot on number 6. Would that have caused the loss of compression?
4. Whats the best way to protect the block from the elements? I ran blue tape across the top to keep dirt and what ever else out, but I live near the ocean. A buddy and fellow mudder metioned wiping everything down with WD40? Not soaking it just wiping with a rag sprayed with WD40.
Well on with the pics:
Well I pulled the head off and this is what it looks like. I did not have time to turn the crank to expose more of number 6 cylinder. I had to help my father some. I had a couple of questions for you guys:
1. Whats the best way to clean off the top of the block? I already scraped off the gasket as much as I could. Is it possible to wire wheel it real lightly?
2. What do you guys think of the cylinder walls? I know you cant see much but was just curious on your initial thoughts.
3. Looks like the head gasket was pretty shot on number 6. Would that have caused the loss of compression?
4. Whats the best way to protect the block from the elements? I ran blue tape across the top to keep dirt and what ever else out, but I live near the ocean. A buddy and fellow mudder metioned wiping everything down with WD40? Not soaking it just wiping with a rag sprayed with WD40.
Well on with the pics:
If you use a wirebrush you will flick debris everywhere so I wouldn't recommend it. You will get it down oil galleries and in the combustion chamber in a way that can't really be extracted without disassembly.
If you are able to get head work done that cheaply maybe they will reface your block as well, it will mean tearing it down fully but you will end up with the block deck and headface completely true which means unless you cock up the torquing of the head you shouldn't get any further gasket issues.
However any skimming of metal faces will alter subtly the compression ratio which will affect tuning. I would leave it all be, not rebuild the head since this looks gasket related, clean it all up as best you can and bolt it all up. There are more fun things to play with on a 40 that don't require learning the ins and outs of the motor which will be more fruitful and won't take the vehicle off the road for ages.
If you are able to get head work done that cheaply maybe they will reface your block as well, it will mean tearing it down fully but you will end up with the block deck and headface completely true which means unless you cock up the torquing of the head you shouldn't get any further gasket issues.
However any skimming of metal faces will alter subtly the compression ratio which will affect tuning. I would leave it all be, not rebuild the head since this looks gasket related, clean it all up as best you can and bolt it all up. There are more fun things to play with on a 40 that don't require learning the ins and outs of the motor which will be more fruitful and won't take the vehicle off the road for ages.
- Thread starter
- #89
Slow progress...
The head is back on. Everything was good. Installed a new side cover gasket. Installed a new intake/exhaust gaket. All parts are Toyota unless not available.
The head is back on. Everything was good. Installed a new side cover gasket. Installed a new intake/exhaust gaket. All parts are Toyota unless not available.
- Thread starter
- #90
Frustrating stuff...
Noticed the timing cover had a bolt broke off so i pulled cover off and replaced the oil seal and gasket. Start the frustration part. Drilled out the bolt and was trying to use the bolt extractor and BAM!!! It snapped off!
Now Im considering just using RTV all the way around and leaving the one bolt as is. Thats it for now just waiting on parts. Merry Christmas fellow Mudders. 
Noticed the timing cover had a bolt broke off so i pulled cover off and replaced the oil seal and gasket. Start the frustration part. Drilled out the bolt and was trying to use the bolt extractor and BAM!!! It snapped off!
Now Im considering just using RTV all the way around and leaving the one bolt as is. Thats it for now just waiting on parts. Merry Christmas fellow Mudders.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 1,331
- Location
- Central Oregon
- Website
- www.oregoncruisers.com
Got a welder? You can tack a nut on the end of the broken bolt throught he hole in the nut...then twist it out with a wrench. The heat from welding the nut helps too!
EZ-Outs are the devil!
EZ-Outs are the devil!
- Thread starter
- #92
Update...
1. Engine is all back together.
2. Still cant get it to run right.
3. 1st round of IVF did not take.
Solution...
1. Nothing.
2. Local mudder coming over to help try and get it running.
3. Starting 2nd round of IVF.
1. Engine is all back together.
2. Still cant get it to run right.
3. 1st round of IVF did not take.
Solution...
1. Nothing.
2. Local mudder coming over to help try and get it running.
3. Starting 2nd round of IVF.
- Thread starter
- #93
Real time questions...
First pic: The push rods are loose which leaves me to believe that this is the compression stroke?
Second Pic: This is where I have the rotor facing. Is this correct? Or does it need to be moved to the right some more?
Third pic: FSM says to line this line up with the pointer and not the BB. Is this correct? Trying to make sure Im doing this correct.
Edit before posting: My buddy came over and thinks I might be one or two teeth off. So Im going try that and see what happens.
First pic: The push rods are loose which leaves me to believe that this is the compression stroke?
Second Pic: This is where I have the rotor facing. Is this correct? Or does it need to be moved to the right some more?
Third pic: FSM says to line this line up with the pointer and not the BB. Is this correct? Trying to make sure Im doing this correct.
Edit before posting: My buddy came over and thinks I might be one or two teeth off. So Im going try that and see what happens.
- Thread starter
- #94
Well I have spent close to 10hrs in the pass two days trying to get this thing timed. No matter what I do its the same. Some times it will run if I give it gas but then it starts to back fire. Other times it just spits fuel out the top of the carb. I have a guy I work with that is pretty good with tuning, just with V8's. Im hoping he can help me with this engine. The only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak?
- Thread starter
- #95
Update...
Buddy couldnt make it but know biggie. Fuel pump quite but I got it to run for three seconds with out back firing and puking out the carb. Although I was just pooring fuel down the carb. I was still happy. After that I decided to make some conch salad.
Researching fuel pumps now.
Buddy couldnt make it but know biggie. Fuel pump quite but I got it to run for three seconds with out back firing and puking out the carb. Although I was just pooring fuel down the carb. I was still happy. After that I decided to make some conch salad.
Researching fuel pumps now.
- Thread starter
- #96
Yep...another update
Got the fuel pump installed (TEQ). So I played with it again and I got it to run until I realized the hose I was using to suck fuel what not all the way in my fuel source. Woops. It did run for a couple seconds. At this point Im comsidering that a victory! So I pushed the fuel hose down a little further into my fuel source and tried to start it again. It was very difficult to start and once I got it started I had to either give it a little gas or a little choke. Then it started to back fire out the carb and the intake (mostly the carb and some times the exhaust). Just odd how it was fine for a few then went down hill? Vaccum leak?
Or still timing? Could it be the dizzy?
Got the fuel pump installed (TEQ). So I played with it again and I got it to run until I realized the hose I was using to suck fuel what not all the way in my fuel source. Woops. It did run for a couple seconds. At this point Im comsidering that a victory! So I pushed the fuel hose down a little further into my fuel source and tried to start it again. It was very difficult to start and once I got it started I had to either give it a little gas or a little choke. Then it started to back fire out the carb and the intake (mostly the carb and some times the exhaust). Just odd how it was fine for a few then went down hill? Vaccum leak?
Or still timing? Could it be the dizzy?
- Thread starter
- #97
Ok so I have been back at it again today with no success. Here it was I did:
-Readjusted valves
-Reset the timing (lined up pointer with the BB, Number one push rods where loose, and rotor pointing to number 4 spark plug).
-Turning over it would spit fuel out the carb and seem like it wanted to run. Then after a little it finally started and idle while back firing out the carb and exhaust. It only ran for about 20 seconds and I was unable to get it going again.
Every one keeps saying its timing but I have had it all over the place with timing and no luck. Is there anything esle I could try?
-Readjusted valves
-Reset the timing (lined up pointer with the BB, Number one push rods where loose, and rotor pointing to number 4 spark plug).
-Turning over it would spit fuel out the carb and seem like it wanted to run. Then after a little it finally started and idle while back firing out the carb and exhaust. It only ran for about 20 seconds and I was unable to get it going again.
Every one keeps saying its timing but I have had it all over the place with timing and no luck. Is there anything esle I could try?
- Thread starter
- #98
Carb issue
Update: I fubared again. Got it running pretty good with no issues until I decided to run some crap fuel through it. Ugh... So here is where I'm at with it. Pardon my lack of terminology. It was really tuff to start and would not run really well at all. The pump or the thing Im pointing to is very tuff to move? So I ended up pulling the top of the carb off and here is what I found! Doesn't look good.
So my plan was to take a turkey baester and suck all the fuel out and spray some carb cleaner in there and then throw it back together. Im waiting on a new seal from Trollhole. What do you guys think would be the correct path to take here? Tips? Advice?
Thanks
Update: I fubared again. Got it running pretty good with no issues until I decided to run some crap fuel through it. Ugh... So here is where I'm at with it. Pardon my lack of terminology. It was really tuff to start and would not run really well at all. The pump or the thing Im pointing to is very tuff to move? So I ended up pulling the top of the carb off and here is what I found! Doesn't look good.
So my plan was to take a turkey baester and suck all the fuel out and spray some carb cleaner in there and then throw it back together. Im waiting on a new seal from Trollhole. What do you guys think would be the correct path to take here? Tips? Advice?Thanks
Motors are historically defined as an ELECTRICAL device for converting energy--electrical-to mechanical.(AC, DC)These are all endothermic.
Engines are those that convert some form of chemical (or state changing) energy to other forms of mechanical energy--Steam, internal combustion, chemical combustion--all exothermic reactions.
A boat does not have a motor, but an engine(chemical to mechnical){the only 'boat motor' I know of is the one Emeril uses to mix salsa--and it's electric}
A Land Cruiser has an engine.
I suspect this debate is more about what people have come to think is proper without knowing the real meanings--kinda like there is no such thing as a chicken fajita
Engines are those that convert some form of chemical (or state changing) energy to other forms of mechanical energy--Steam, internal combustion, chemical combustion--all exothermic reactions.
A boat does not have a motor, but an engine(chemical to mechnical){the only 'boat motor' I know of is the one Emeril uses to mix salsa--and it's electric}
A Land Cruiser has an engine.
I suspect this debate is more about what people have come to think is proper without knowing the real meanings--kinda like there is no such thing as a chicken fajita
- Thread starter
- #100
Bump for answers.
