basic checks
yes that sounds okay for a primary winding---you can also shoot the secondary winding and that should be in the K ohms range maybe 4-10k?
I am assuming by no spark you mean at the coil?
if that is the case it only takes minutes
disconnect the pos side of the coil and run a wire from 12 volt pos on batt to pos side of the coil
make sure the neg side of the coil is wired so the power goes to the points
hold the spark lead close to a ground like the engine block
open and close the points with a screwdriver
you should have spark from the coil
some basics of the points system
12 volts flows from the ignition to the points through the primary windings of the coil this sets up a magnetic field in the coil and when the points open this field collapses and causes an induced voltage in the secondary windings of the coil at a much higher voltage which goes out the lead to the distrib. the condensor is wired to the points to soak up spikes there and reduce arcing across the contacts and allows them to last longer
thats it in a nutshell without going into the ignition side of things yet
You can check continuity of the condensor wire to its case---if it is shorted to case then it will drag down the ignition voltage
so you need power to the coil, power to come out on neg side of coil to the points and the points to open to get a spark from the coil---that's all u need
if you want to test just the coil remove all the wires, run 12 volts to the pos side and a wire from the neg side, set it down somewhere where it wont fall and take the high tension lead and hold it near the block to check for spark, now take the neg lead wire and touch it repeatedly and quickly to ground and you should get spark---you have in effect become the points this way
once you establish your components are good on the engine side we can look at the ignition wiring, switch, fuses, etc and figure it out