Smoking battery cables? (1 Viewer)

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basic checks

yes that sounds okay for a primary winding---you can also shoot the secondary winding and that should be in the K ohms range maybe 4-10k?



I am assuming by no spark you mean at the coil?
if that is the case it only takes minutes

disconnect the pos side of the coil and run a wire from 12 volt pos on batt to pos side of the coil

make sure the neg side of the coil is wired so the power goes to the points

hold the spark lead close to a ground like the engine block

open and close the points with a screwdriver

you should have spark from the coil

some basics of the points system

12 volts flows from the ignition to the points through the primary windings of the coil this sets up a magnetic field in the coil and when the points open this field collapses and causes an induced voltage in the secondary windings of the coil at a much higher voltage which goes out the lead to the distrib. the condensor is wired to the points to soak up spikes there and reduce arcing across the contacts and allows them to last longer

thats it in a nutshell without going into the ignition side of things yet


You can check continuity of the condensor wire to its case---if it is shorted to case then it will drag down the ignition voltage

so you need power to the coil, power to come out on neg side of coil to the points and the points to open to get a spark from the coil---that's all u need;)


if you want to test just the coil remove all the wires, run 12 volts to the pos side and a wire from the neg side, set it down somewhere where it wont fall and take the high tension lead and hold it near the block to check for spark, now take the neg lead wire and touch it repeatedly and quickly to ground and you should get spark---you have in effect become the points this way

once you establish your components are good on the engine side we can look at the ignition wiring, switch, fuses, etc and figure it out:cheers:
 
points gap

the position of the screw in the plate (#1) makes me suspect you may not be getting a gap at the contacts when you should (#2)

the points have to open and close to make the coil work
exact gap is not important just to get a spark you can gap it with a matchbook cover or by eye
user50381_pic16918_1292091221.jpg
 
60 dizzy

Installing a FJ60 Dizzy

some good ingintion info here including all you ever need to know about your 60 dizzy and how to test that
 
Update

No time to work on the 40 today.:frown: I got called into Christmas shopping and a party tonight. I appreciate all the help so far though. :beer:

Thanks,
waterboy
 
Im back...

Hope everyone had a good holidays. I didnt have much time to work on the 40 till today and here are pics of the progress I made. I hope to finish installing the 60 series ignition tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. :hillbilly:

waterboy-albums-my-1970-fj40-picture17081-my-fj40-172.jpg


waterboy-albums-my-1970-fj40-picture17082-my-fj40-175.jpg
 
Its alive...some what

Well its all installed and after beating my head against the wall I finally figured out what I did wrong. I did not realize that the plug wires go on different then the firing order!:bang: That being said its on to the next problem. It only runs a few seconds then cuts out. I am borrowing a known working carb to see if that is the problem. I love this site!!!

waterboy-albums-my-1970-fj40-picture17108-my-fj40-189.jpg
 
quitting

in the meantime try pouring a little gas in while running and see if it will keep going

I am assuming you can see fuel in the bowl?

if that does not do the trick try putting your hand over it and give it varying amounts of "choke" with your hand and see if that helps

if you can get it running for a few second clamp your hand over the top hard then pull it off quickly---helps dislodge junk
 
At it again with no success.

I installed everything including a new Trolhole Carb. Tried turning it over and turns over and occasionly sounds like it wants to fire. Then it shoots fuel out the top and occasionally back fires? What am I missing? Or what am I doing wrong? I just want to here this thing run! :bang:

Thanks in advance :beer::beer:

I thought maybe it was 180 out but went back through and redid everything again. Used Coolermans website as a reference.
My 1970 Toyota FJ40 152.jpg
 
is the rotor(ignition off, cap off) pointing to the # 4 spark plug actual when the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up at the pointer? This should be # 1 firing on its compression stroke @ 7*BTDC. you are prolly out just a bit. I had to stab and re stab my dizzy to get it all lined up right and in the oil pump drive slot. I wanna say, yes still advanced too far....HTH
 
Thats one of the things I was thinking. When everything was done I think it was pointing to the number 4 plug. Should I adjust the timing some? I am done for the day but will be back at it again tomorrow.

Thanks,
Waterboy
 
I bet that your timing is just off a bit. I would mark the location of the dizzy and try turning it a bit in each direction while someone else tries to start it.
 
Still no luck. I have adjusted the timing all over the place and have gotten close but no luck. Coil is good and I have spark at the plug. Even if the timing is off it should at least idle ruff right? My buddy says to get a new cap and rotor so Im off to the parts store. Gonna try and post a video or least figure out how. And yes the valve cover is going to get powerder coated a different color (capri blue).

Thanks

Just so Im not crazy here are some pics. Does this look right?
My 1970 Toyota FJ40 154.jpg
My 1970 Toyota FJ40 153.jpg
 
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Cap and rotor and cheap and simple and it's hard to go wrong with replacing them.
Have you yet verified that you are getting fuel? What is the level of fuel in the window of the carb? It's pretty easy to drizzle some gas in the carb throat or spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner while you try to start it.
 
Got a new cap. Rotor will be here around 4. Fuel window is full. Pouring the fuel in is the next step after cap and rotor.
 
Installed new cap. Now there is no fuel in the window on the carb? Im getting fuel flowing to the carb. I PMed Marshall so maybe he can give me some insight as to what Im doing wrong.
 

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