Smoking battery cables? (1 Viewer)

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A big thanks to Trollhole for giving me some direction. I will update again when I get some more time to work on the FJ.

Thanks,
Waterboy
 
Just so everyone knows what I told him and a little history.

No history on motor. Hasn't been started since 85 from what he or I could tell. Lots can happen with 25 years of sitting.

Told him to confirm he is getting 12v to dizzy with ignition on.
Do a compression check
Hook up PCV valve to manifold.
Cap off brake booster line on manifold.
Recheck dizzy placement.
 
That was very nice of you to do for a customer.
Will you come to my house and help me change out my clutch hydraulics?:D

Yes, a huge vacuum leak would make it hard to start....Didn't think to ask that.
 
That was very nice of you to do for a customer.
Will you come to my house and help me change out my clutch hydraulics?:D

Yes, a huge vacuum leak would make it hard to start....Didn't think to ask that.

Yeah this picture gave it away. Or at least got me asking the question. This is why I always ask to see pictures. As many a possible. It's so much easier to know what your dealing with as well you can also spot other problems.

 
Ok here are the compression numbers:
1. 110
2. 120
3. 130
4. 115
5. 125
6. 120

What do you think about the numbers? Ugh...

I am getting 12v to the coil.
Capped of vacum going to brake booster.
I have a new PCV valve arriving today and will try everything again once I get it installed.
 
Looks to be outside of spec both on minimum value and on the range. Should probably be thinking about a rebuild at some point, though it'll probably keep ticking for quite a while longer...

Are those dry? What happens if you squirt a little oil in and repeat? Was the carb butterfly being held open during the test?
 
I just screwed in the gauge and turned it over. I see now that choke and carb should be open. How much of a difference would this make?
 
You're also supposed to do it on a warm engine, but that might be difficult. Although it's pretty warm in Boca right now.

I've always tested with the throttle and choke open so I don't know.
I Googled it and some folks see 15psi increase with throttle open. Others see no change.
I guess you're going to have to retest to find out!
 
Ran out of time but did redo number one and it went up 10 psi with the throttle open. I think thats much better. Not great but better. Will have more time tomorrow to mess with it more.
 
Back at it again...

Here is where I am as of now:
New cap
New rotor
New plug wires
New PCV valve
Hooked up new vacuum line from PCV to manifold
Capped off brake booster vacuum on manifold
recomfimred dizzy placement again
Have been pouring fuel down the carb. It seems like it wants to start but I think my battery is starting to die. I ended up hooking up jumper cables but it didnt make a huge difference. Its blowing smoke and fuel out the carb and back firing out my headers. Had excess fuel burning in the header!!! Thats where I left off at. HAHAHA... Ill be turning it over and it seems like it will stop and then start going again. Is that because of the dead battery? It aslo seems that there is fuel coming out of the rod that passes through the base of the carb? I assume that is not normal? Im going to talk to Trollhole tonight about the situation. He has been a great help so far. Is there something I am missing?
IMG_0481.jpg
IMG_0482.jpg
 
It will leak out of the throttle rods if your vehicle is not running and your constantly trying to turn the vehicle over and over. Fuel won't drip out if it's running. This isn't your issue. If it won't start and run for 4 or more seconds when you pour fuel down the carb then most likely it's something else.

Call me tonight and we will go through the options.
 
Sounds good. I wasn't sure about the leaking. But then again I am a one :banana: mechanic.

Thanks :hillbilly:
 
Its alive!!!!

Thanks to Marshall for his excellent customer service...my 40 now has a heart beat! And I believe myself to be a :banana::banana: mechanic.

P.S. TrollHole for President! :hillbilly:
 
he's got my vote.
What was it? Ignition?
 
Hey TrollHole did you get my PM regarding the choke cable? And yes it was the timing and I kicked my self in butt when I realized I screwed up. Hope to finish the coolant system this weekend and then get the timing done.
 
Well Im back at it again. I got the coolant system put in and have been running the engine for 10 mins at a time to flush it. First time it ran for 10 mins idleing by itself no problem. Second time I had to hold the choke to make it run. Know I spoke with Troll Hole a few weeks back and realized I didnt have the idle solenoid hooked up. Back to one bananna. So I finally got everything hooked back up and just want to run it for 10 mins. Now it barely idles and then just dies after a couple of seconds. If i give it a little choke it runs ok but then starts to back fire and spits out the carb again. Is this still a timing issue? Also I have adjusted my timing (distributor) as far as it will let me go. Is it possible that I could be one tick off or tooth on timing? Its rotated all the way up and if I turn it down it really starts to act really bad.

Thanks
 
Your timing is still messed up. You need to download the FSM in my links page and go by it word for word on setting the dizzy. If that doesn't work I'd start checking things like spun timing gears etc...
 
Ok. Thanks again.
 

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